That's why I posted the email address for James for Stihl technical support and a real person. I emailed them a link to this thread and also told them that the saw owner was getting poor dealer support.
Low compression on my new Stihl MS362
- Thread starter James Sawyer
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as an experienced businessman, I can tell you that... in my opinion... this is some good advice! if it was my issue, I would do just that. write the Top Dawg! send a professional looking letter CERTIFIED! also send one to your state's Attorney General. and a notice to BBB. assuming you feel the saw's condition is less than warranted. ie, expected. I would include a short paragraph on ur logger background, etc. add in that your efforts help with the logging industry in ur state. and that this situation is an element that is counter productive to logging the industry there and un pro-active. also that you bought the Sthil saw on co's reputation... and in good faith! if you really want to add some weight to your mailout... copy it to President Trump, too. [hint: be sure to do this!] remember, we dint win WWII with a land invasion!! ~
Certified Letter to everybody!!! no one likes a Certified Letter that does not have a check
in it! loland I would send a Certified Letter to the Stihl dealer and cc everyone else you have contacted. once you mail out all this... all u will have to do is sit back and wait!
you will be the Ringmaster. but it must be done professionally. and u need to send these letters to a person. not a general address. no PO's... so some homework required.
I once bot an oz of gold in AK. the dealer never sent it to me despite repeated efforts to get him to. we were involved in the travel industry at the time. so I politely... screamed and btch'd by mail, AK Governor, town Mayor, AK Atty General, AK Dept of Tourism, etc... etc... all certified, cc'd to each party that it was a state fraud! and we were feeling inclined to warn all our AK bound tourist travelers to beware of such frauds up there...
[lol] the sky opened! the state sent me the oz. !! placer gold. I still have the oz!! and made the guy make some restitution. he sent me a gold fishing hook and an apology. the state billed him under forfeiture of his right to do business in AK for the oz placer gold. about $700/oz at the time. I wrote him back and said I had given fish many hooks over the years, but it was the first time I had ever gotten the hook from... the fish!
also u should cc your letter to the top dawg to your local and regional Stihl managers... by name.
so get crackin'....
Best Wishes!
[lol] and the sky opened up!...
to a real person. always in such circumstances...
The OP is from Oregon, West coast of USA, hence a 25" bar on a 60 cc saw. If one reads the thread from the start there was some things done to this saw that most Stihl dealers would say voided the warranty straight off, many but not all dealers, but most will not allow any modifications to a new saw under warranty done outside of a registered dealers repair facility. The modifications are a good idea but cutting a tach into the top cover and swapping out the oil pump may even tip off the repair facility that determines whether the saw will be fixed under warranty. My hope is of course the saw does qualify for return or to be fixed/replaced under warranty.
Could use Twitter.
Not to Trump, very delicate position to be in though. If the owner is required to send the saw off to a place higher than the dealers I would suggest putting the original oil pump back in and install a new top cover, keep the tach. My own experiences with Stihl dealers is they will try their best to void warranty, that means any modification or even remove a part from the new saw like an oiler change out would be cause enough to void the warranty.
Making modifications before testing out the Saw seems like bad practice anyway. Run it, confirm it’s a good runner, then modify it one step at a time, then you know exactly where things went wrong, JMHO.
Agreed, if one wants to depend on a warranty at all then, no modifications at all, don`t even remove a screw or the techs have reason to void the warranty. I did post many post back that a guy had a saw voided due to the muffler looking too clean compared to the rest of the saw. The Tech knew that saw had run a modified muffler but the owner had kept the original muffler completely stock and put it back on before bringing the saw back to be looked at.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
From my perspective...just like I said earlier I'm on my own...best cut my lost sell as a used saw but that look like its not even possible...so looks like it just what I said Stihl not going do anything. I have no warranty...just like I said. But because there is so many people looking at this I contacted Stihl. JD is the head regional manager before Corporate. I'm working up the ladder as suggested. Unless I don't want a wall hanger I'm going have fix it myself. I'm not getting any help from the shops pretty much says it...they won't give even $1 credit from where I stand. The second shop is waiting to hear from JD or that's the truth. The only reason the 2ND shop isn't calling they can't sell my saw as used as I see it...they don't want it either...both shops have ran this saw...guess they where just hoping I'd take it home and go away as I see it. Unless JD has an offer there is no support from Stihl
I really feel for you, being caught in this kind of bind but I try to bring out both sides of a story and there is a bit of stuff you have done yourself and plenty the dealers could do for you if they were any good. The dealers look at it from a business perspective and base their decisions on factors like how much money do you generate for them, relationships between both them and you and how much of their time will be involved getting your one saw through warranty repairs. We know the dealers should stand behind what they sell, they certainly will tell you about the warranty when selling you a product but all that excitement soon leaves if you bring an item back to be looked at, they try their hardest to shrug you off. That is why myself and others have repeatedly suggested going higher up, the higher ups are not so concerned about the bottom line but sometimes will jump through hoops to please a customer. It may just end up that none of them will help, its just a factor of Stihl having the largest slice of the outdoor power tool sales, one or two dissatisfied customers won`t hurt the bottom line much.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
Well this for Stihl to determine regarding the warranty. But bottom line warranty or not why does this saw can't keep a 15" kerf clear enough that it doesn't stops the chain...that the question. Now many Stihl customer want buy a MS362 and run into this problem. I hope Stihl can at the min. Address this question.
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
Since we know the compression is probably ok. If the rpms go all over the place and randomly stalls in the cut I would check your ignition module. Swapping another on and see if it changed anything.
They do control the timing and rev limit on the carb model.
Even if it meant taking one off a new saw.
They do control the timing and rev limit on the carb model.
Even if it meant taking one off a new saw.
Why not?
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
I was too thinking about the ignition since i'm confident its not the compression, and 4-strokes so no air leak or bad vent, and plug is dark so no air leak or carb prob, bad decomp would roast the piston, though could be running rich, but then it wouldn't it smoke if it was running rich enuf to stall and rpm is fine. Outside chance somthing with clutch side. Does it idle there for a long time fine? Can you limb fine with it? I also don't understand the kerf bit, thats the width of the blade right, which is like 1/4", not the width of the log? Please correct me if i dont understand right.
thanks. I guess my quick ref back was off target. then later on I thot about he said he was an OR logger... but I hadn't gotten back to ck it.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
My saw idles fine. The few limbs I've cut..no problem. The saw bench runs fine it just doesn't have any power. If it had a tune problem...pretty easy to check the tach is right there. So you have ask if the saw doesn't have a problem why wouldwouldn't the shops take it as trade at a used saw value? Bottom line I'm out $1000 , they don't want and I don't want it. Yes I was stupid...I should have ran it put it wouldn't matter if I did that's the point...but knowing the thing is tune correctly and putting the right amount of oil on the bar to me is taking better care of it...making ever effort that it's going to last longer. Its a Stihl pro saw...the shops haven't had problem with tach or the oiler only my complaint that it has no power. They both ran it and both have seen the problem with the saw stopping. The 1st shop won't admit to it anymore but the 2ND shop still does. I was standing right next to the guy from the 1ST SHOP when it did multiple time's. They both told me I need to get use to it ...well 15" of wood should be nothing to 60cc pro saw.
nope! you are sure right about that! I have taken my 019T to 14" fresh oak... cuts steady right thru it... screaming all the way!! ~ 35cc
I'd like to see a vid of your cutting technique, the reason being is a while back some guy was carrying on & on & on about a bar being defective, when he showed the relevant pictures it was operator error of poor sharpening, so in other words it could be your technique.
Above when they tested your saw they thought it cut fine, they test saws everyday of the week, why would they single out your saw & tell you bs story?
different saws require different techniques, when I use my stihl 090, if I use the same technique as my ms660 the chain will stop in the cut constantly, the power is in totally different rev ranges. The old 090 is low to mid revs power, if it over revs it chokes, runs rich & won't cut, with the ms660 power is at high revs & if I let the revs drop off it will bog & stop, basically new saws have to scream to cut well, you mention loading the saw up, you don't load modern saws up , you hold them wide open , keep the revs flat out, as high as possible & let the saw cut on its own, the skill is to not get them to load up.
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