max rpm for MS360 Stihl

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Ahh... but geofore whatever termites are doing is NATURAL. Whatever humans do is UNnatural. I suffer from some sort of mental impairment that keeps me from making sense of such thinking.:rolleyes:
 
It makes me wonder why the EPA hasn't forced the agriculture department or forest service to genetically alter trees to limit termite flatulation
Or stop peolpe from consuming burritos and beer. Everyone know you unburnt hydrcarbon output soars after consuming either.
 
Re: EPA

Originally posted by geofore
It makes me wonder why the EPA hasn't forced the agriculture department or forest service to genetically alter trees to limit termite flatulation output, a major greenhouse gas problem in the wooded areas. We would then need the DHHS's department of research integrity to tell us if the science behind it is accually scientific research or make believe. This could be a make work boondoggle and you could get your saw tuned to cut while they argue over the termite gas.


:confused: :confused:
 
WHAT THE HE!!

I just talked to my local Stihl dealer and he said after checking the book that MAX RPM is 10,000 plus or minus 1000.
What the heck, is that right, or is it 13,000 like some have stated here??
 
You are probably right. After I posted I called Stihl HQ and the guy there told me 13,500. He also told me b/c/ of the limiter caps that I wont beable to due much with the settings. This puzzles me due to the discussion of pulling the limiter caps off. Is doing so a problem, bad for the saw, do things fall apart? I am not a racer, just want my saw to be in tune. Probably being to anal and should relax. Plus I dont have the stones to pull the caps off seing as how I really dont have much experience with carb settings.
thanks-
Drew
 
Tony-
I must plead ignorance here. Are you serious? I have no plans on doing this, but is it really bad, sometimes I dont read sarcasm so good if it is there at all. Just dont understand why it would be bad, also if it is an attempt to really restrict the carbs settings, and it is easy to pull the caps and turn the screws, it was a pretty minimal move. Sorry to ask such a stupid question but I just want to know.

Not any way affiliated with the EPA,
Drew
 
Calling HQ

Hi Drew, as I stated earlier in this thread, 13,000 rpm is the max for the 360 per the current workshop manual. Of course there could be a typo but conceivably every tech manual is proof read for accuracy. I don`t have much faith in anyones assumption that the max rpm is XXXXXrpm when it disputes a written document. Proceed with extreme caution as you dial your saw in for this spec.

Trying not to belabor a point, but these posted specs are only max unloaded engine speeds and are GUIDELINES to acheiving optimal cutting efficiency. You will likely find that the true optimal efficiency is derived from a max unloaded rpm several hundred rpm lower than the posted spec. Stihl and all other manufacturers serve two masters in that they must satisfy the EPA with low emissions by running as lean as possible while delivering the expected performance to the consumer. The max rpms are almost irrelavent because each engine is designed to deliver max power in the cut at a much lower rpm, right about 9k for the 036.

Listen to the Madsen`s wav file and practice with your saw until you find the similarity, but always err on the side of minor richness.

Russ
 
caps

I am sure any good dealer will tell you the horror stories of field adjustment of carbs. Not everybody is as adept at it as many of the people on here. And the attitude is usually that the louder it screams, the better.
That said, the only person I want touching those caps is me. I have an ear for the correct setting IN THE CUT, and a tach to make sure it is not overreving. I have reset done about 10 saws in the last year, new. It does not seem to be a huge problem, and the latest saws seem to be a lot better.
But my piston and cylinder sales have suffered.
 
Howdy- Stihltech, earlier in this thread you asked if the adjustment screws vibrate around if the limiting caps are removed, in my experience I would say yes. We've tried removing the caps here and the threads for the adjustment screws are "sticky" enough at first to hold them in place, but after a while the adjustment screws loosen up and then it's a mess. And there's no shoulder on those adjustment screws that have had the caps on them to install a tension spring like on the older carbs. Basically, I think if a guy needs that extra adjustment then they need to find a good used old-style carb and slap it on.
 
drew ,u listen to the fellows on here,, that got a lot more savy than me. im just cuttin up . mabe my funny was an inside
yoke..and the door was closed so i wus the only one that got it.
either way,,, i do not like the caps,,, nor the carbs with no high adjustment...
so good luck...:) can u hearum yet..
oops sorry man ,im just laughing to keep from cryin.
 
:blob2: Don't ever take your rev-limiter caps off !!!....Listen to this story......I brought my stihl chainsaw into the shop to get some carb work done.....forgetting that I removed my rev-limiter caps months before....As soon as the shop mechanic seen this he flipped out.....next thing I know I had shotguns from all angles pointing at me....I was ordered to get down on the floor and put my arms behind my back....seems he was no saw mechanic at all but rather an undercover rev-limiter patrol officer....better known as the (RLP).....I spent one month in jail.....orderd to pay a $5000 fine and was told by the judge that I would have to spend the next five years in the woods sawing logs !!!! If I would have only known.....Well anyhow.....I told ya it was a story !!!.....But anyhow on the re-limiter subject...........It does make a person wonder why they would create a law like that when they can't even enforce all the other stupid laws they have created........:confused:
 
trouble

I bet you won't be pullin any furniture tags off either!

Seems some here think of the limiter caps being non adjustable, and it ain't so. It only limits the amount of travel the screw can turn. Sure, the are set pretty lean at the factory, but just taking the off and throwing them away is not a cure. Adjust the carb and reinstall the caps in the middle of travel. This will give you 1/2 to 3/4 turn of adjustment. If that is not enough, then you best be looking for another problem, like an air leak.
 
Last time I had an air leak you nearly threw me out of the shop! I'm glad all the doors were open and there was a breeze. Yep same night I set off your fire alarm....
I'm cheep entertainment.

Later,
Chris
 
MS360 Testing and setting data

Just reading this old thread about MS360 . Here is the official MS360 Testing and setting data from Stihl CD.
 
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MS360 workshop manual and parts list

Just reading this old thread about MS360 . Here is the official MS360 Testing and setting data from Stihl CD.

Just adding a bit more to this old thread about MS360 . Here is the official MS360 parts list from Stihl CD.I will try to upload the workshop manual on next post , not sure on total file limit , workshop manual is only about 2 meg
 
MS360 worshop manual

Just adding a bit more to this old thread about MS360 . Here is the official MS360 parts list from Stihl CD.I will try to upload the workshop manual on next post , not sure on total file limit , workshop manual is only about 2 meg

Tried adding the last bit to this old thread about MS360 , MS360 workshop manual from Stihl CD.But I could not upload it for some reason . If anyone wants a copy , I Can email a zipped pdf 2mg or unzipped 2.53mg , my email address is [email protected] . Cheers Manfred
 

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