McCulloch Chain Saws

[kz1000]

Mac 15

Any idea of the year or specs? Thank you

 

[joeymt33]

Model: MAC 15

MANUFACTURED BY:
McCULLOCH MOTORS CORP.
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA, U.S.A.
SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER:
none
YEAR INTRODUCED:
1962
YEAR DISCONTINUED:
1967
ENGINE DISPLACEMENT:
4.9 cu. in. (80cc)
NUMBER OF CYLINDERS:
1
CYLINDER BORE:
2.125 in. (54mm)
PISTON STROKE:
1.375 in. (35mm)
CYLINDER TYPE:
Aluminum with cast iron sleeve
INTAKE METHOD:
Reed valves
MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.:
not advertised
WEIGHT:

OPERATOR CONFIGURATION:
One Man operation
HANDLEBAR SYSTEM:
Rigid
CHAIN BRAKE:
none
CLUTCH:
Centrifugal
DRIVE TYPE:
Direct
CONSTRUCTION:
Die cast magnesium
MAGNETO TYPE:
McCulloch, located under flywheel
CARBURETOR:
Tillotson HC series, gravity fed
MAJOR REPAIR KIT:

MINOR REPAIR KIT:

AIR FILTER SYSTEM:
Flocked wire screen cartridge
STARTER TYPE:
McCulloch automatic rewind
OIL PUMP:
Manual
MAXIMUM ENGINE RPM:

IDLE RPM:

IGNITION TIMING:
fixed
BREAKER POINT SETTING:
0.018 in. (0.45mm)
FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP:
0.010 in. (0.25 mm)
SPARK PLUG TYPE:
Champion J8J
SPARK PLUG GAP:
0.025 in. (0.63mm)
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS:
Ball
FUEL TANK CAPACITY:

FUEL OIL RATIO:
20:1
RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE:
Regular
MIX OIL SPECIFICATION:
McCulloch two-stroke chain saw mix oil
CHAIN PITCH:
.404 in.
CHAIN TYPE:
McCulloch
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:

SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED:
16 in. (40cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED:

COLOUR SCHEME:
McCulloch Yellow enamel

 

[kz1000]

I never stop marveling at the knowledge on this site, you folks are great.

 

[joeymt33]

I never stop marveling at the knowledge on this site, you folks are great.

Hang around. You're always welcome.

 

[kz1000]

I ended up with several Mac parts in the tote, I'll make a list over the next week or so.

 

[paccity]

newest 12-25 .

 

[Nickolas]

newest 12-25 .View attachment 342126 View attachment 342127

Damn is that original paint? Now that is one sweet saw regardless.

Sent from my S10 using Tapatalk

 

[paccity]

and a pump i just got. 99 pwrhead.

 

[torinocobra]

Well.... Believe it or not a long handle screwdriver and an old oily shop rag... That's it. I still am going to disassemble the entire saw and clean it from inside out and put fresh gaskets in it. What I can't find I'll make myself.

Nick

I've gotten an assortment of spatulas of different stiffness from thrift stores to do my scraping, no more sore fingers. Or scratches. And hopefully you change your mind disassembly of the entire saw, it just needed the cleaning you already gave it. Looks great! Call it done, set it on the shelf, and appreciate it. That way it will always be what it is- a great running, original, rare saw.

 

[Steve NW WI]

I have a (I think) 1-72 "Project in a Box" that was given to me. I'll have to dig it out of the shed and see what's there, but if you want it, I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping.

I was wrong, it's actually a 1-70. That's what happens when someone just stuffs a saw in the back of your truck and you throw it in the shed for "later"

Has compression, think everything is there, I really didn't look more at it than what you see in the pics.

Machinisttx, send me a message if you want it. Like I said, it was free to me from another member, just cover my shipping costs. I forget who else was interested, but if Mtx doesn't take it for some reason, I'll let you know.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Forgot the dang pics:

 

[fechtichmac]

What have you got there a home made primer? I want to find an original Goose bar to put on mine even though I like the vintage Oregon bar. Sooner or later Ill find one I seem to find everything else...

Yes ist homemade since the original was not repairable.Have a nos one but i think new now days fuel will destroy it.?

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Got the 1-40 to pop today but wouldn't pull fuel. Gonna rebuild the carb. Anyone got access to the two gaskets between the carb and saw body? what all's gotta come off to get the carb box off?

 

[machinisttx]

Forgot the dang pics:

View attachment 342208

View attachment 342209


View attachment 342210

View attachment 342211

Message sent!

 

[Nickolas]

I've gotten an assortment of spatulas of different stiffness from thrift stores to do my scraping, no more sore fingers. Or scratches. And hopefully you change your mind disassembly of the entire saw, it just needed the cleaning you already gave it. Looks great! Call it done, set it on the shelf, and appreciate it. That way it will always be what it is- a great running, original, rare saw.

You don't understand I take everything apart it's my nature. I have to know how everything works and I like to get all areas clean inside and out. Plus I have got my hands on some gaskets and seals for the saw and want to freshen it up a bit. It won't hurt if anything it will help. Now if I painted it then that would ruin it and I won't do that. I will leave the original patina intact but on the inside new seals and gaskets are a must to run it.

I have been working on motors , cars, boats, lawn mowers, etc for years and always take things apart when I get them. Might be something hidden that needs attention you are not aware of so that's why I get into everything. If I am not working on something and taking it apart it isn't me. I have to fix things, freshen them up and just make sure it's all good. It's my hobby and I am more into it now then ever since I don't work anymore. Anyway it will be in better shape when I am done with it.

Nick

Sent from my S10 using Tapatalk

 

[watsonr]

Mac Heads...

Carb kit for the Tillotson HL87C. Not listed in any book, but believe it to be the DG5HL kit and the RK88HL may also work... inputs please?

 

[heimannm]

DG is gaskets and diaphragms only, RK is the full repair kit with needle, spring, lever, seat too I believe.

You have the correct numbers for the HL87.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Got the 1-40 to pop today but wouldn't pull fuel. Gonna rebuild the carb. Anyone got access to the two gaskets between the carb and saw body? what all's gotta come off to get the carb box off?

65630/50123 and 65583/55519 are stock, you can use two of the same part number but one of them (65583/55519) has a sort of tab that sticks out, not really sure why it is there. You can find them on e-bay almost all the time.

I probably have some in the attic if you can't find them elsewhere.

To remove the air box is a pretty tall task. There are two screws under the oil tank which means the oil tank has to come off. Big job...

Mark

 

[jerrycmorrow]

65630/50123 and 65583/55519 are stock, you can use two of the same part number but one of them (65583/55519) has a sort of tab that sticks out, not really sure why it is there. You can find them on e-bay almost all the time.

I probably have some in the attic if you can't find them elsewhere.

To remove the air box is a pretty tall task. There are two screws under the oil tank which means the oil tank has to come off. Big job...

Mark

i may just make some gaskets out of some thick auto parts gasket material and forget about pulling the carb box. if after the carb rebuild it won't run then i'll hafta pull the carb box to look at the reed valve
we'll see.

 

[watsonr]

Squirt the carb a few times to prime it. Some of these old guys need a little more than others. I run mine off a squirt bottle until they catch.. maybe a few extra seconds.

Thanks Mark, about what I figured.