McCulloch Chain Saws

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I took the side cover off when I changed the bar and the rim around the clutch had a lot of play in it...I went out and sawed a bunch and noticed the chain still turning at idle. I checked the chain and lowered the idle, but now the chain turns even when I try to pull start it and spins fast as soon as the engine lights-kinda a dangerous situation. What does that sound like?
 
Yeah I cleaned it out didnt see anything broke. But the rim flopped around kinda loose and could contact the clutch there was that much slop. The saw would still saw and pull hard the chain was just spinning all the time. I could engage the chain brake at idle and stop the chain but the engine would kind of bog and try to die.....
 
Yeah that would make sense.
The guy I took it to fixed my little homelite great for only about $40 including parts, he was a Stihl dealer for over 20 years, been in business more than that so I'll see what he says next week. I'm at work, have to work tomorrow dayshift then were rushing out to camp and bike out in the dez til Sunday, back at work monday Im tight for time to work on this stuff. Plus next week I still have my brand new Husky and 2 weeks left on my USFS wood permit so I need to get out there and get some more rounds. AND I need to get a 72 link chisel chain for that Husky the anti-kickback chain is kinda slow.
 
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Don't know anything about your saw. I've had my PM610 do the same thing after setting a while. Turns out It was a clutch bearing gone bad.
 
My Meager Mac Menagerie:
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My main felling saw (PM610) until I can get the PM850 in a box running.
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A spare PM610 which will probably go on feebay soon.
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My pathetic box of parts that will someday be a Pro Mac 850 again if I can ever find a piston & cylinder.:cry:
 
Well the dude at the saw shop couldnt even start my SP81 so he didnt even tear into it-I guess I will be fixing it myself which I'm glad about now. I'll get it back Sat and post pics and report when I get it torn apart, if you guys will help me I appreciate it. Clutch bearing is my bet.
BTW heres the start routine for comparison to you other mac guys: Push decompressor, pull out choke, give full throttle and pull 2-4 times until it pops and stalls. Push decompressor again, push choke off, give full throttle and it should start first pull. I thought everyone knew that!
 
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On my 610 I pull choke, lock throttle on high idle, pull 2-4 times until it pops, push choke half way in, start it and let it rev for 30 seconds then push choke all the way in, blip the throttle twice to clear it out and cut wood.
 
Went to the saw shop and got back my saw. Owner said tried everything but it would not start. Said even if the clutch was bad there were no parts available I should throw the saw away! What an ass. I pulled the choke and it popped the first pull. Pushed the choke in and it started second pull. He couldnt believe it. Douchebag.
Took it home and it came apart easy(once you turn the clutch nut clockwise!) my mistake.......the clutch is broken, the fork piece in the center, (I dont know the correct name) is cracked and fractured in two places. Just bought a used clutch on Egay for $22.50, bearing is ok but worn need to look for one of those too. I feel dumb for even letting that crackpot look at my saw, lesson learned.
 
It's sad that you had an experience like that but on the bright side it prompted you to dig in and fix your saw. The confidence you gain from the job will help you when you need to rebuild the carb or replace the piston. I think the clutch bearing is available new on feebay or lawnmowertech might have one. I think the SP81 uses the same clutch as the PM610 so the bearing should be easy to find.
:cheers:
 
Nice saws and that homemade spike is Gnarly Mean looking!
:chainsaw:

Did you make that spike or was it on the saw when you got it?
 
Unusual 10-10?

I was trolling CSCC and I see M. Acres has 2 10-10 listing, an older version with the Walbro SDC carb and a newer one with a Tilly carb. Mine is a LH start with the SDC carb, which would make it one of the 1970 on down ones, what makes it unusual is that it has a factory chain brake, something not very common on any saw that old.
 
I have a 1635AV I know it's not an old saw but it is still a good saw to me. Bought it reconditioned in 03 at HD for $99. Couple of chains and the primer bulb are the things that I have replaced on it. I just bought a woodstove this year so we will see how much stamina this baby has. I found this on Craigslist. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/1097891681.html
What do you think is it worth it? How much bigger is a 10-10 than my saw now?
 
I would say that 10-10 is definitely worth $60 although I would still try to offer $50 and see what he does. The 10-10 has a 54cc engine and your 1635 has a 35cc engine. It would be a good firewood saw if you didn't mind the weight of it. I would say it is probably 4lbs heavier than your current saw. Buy it, fix it, try it and if you don't like it then sell it on feebay and double your money.
 
hi

My dads got a mac saw its heavey and quite big but it cuts like every thing is butter its 125cc.Im not sure how he can use it hes only a little man but he seems to be able to cut for about 4hours not bad for someone who has had a heart attack.And weighs about 75kgs.I suppose hes used the faithuful saw for about 25years now so i suppose hes just used to it.Im not sure what mac it would be i think its a pro something? can anyone help me?.Ha he says you get one go at starting it and if it doesnt start theres not much point trying again.Im not sure why that is.Just wont start after that.But once its going thoe it just keeps going.He also says hes seen man in the forestry break rists trying to start the same size saw so he always says to me you have to start it like this and he has some method of doing it with his knee placed on top of it.Why do i tell you all this just because hes a mac man and he will be a mac man till he dies.You can tell he loves that saw.
 
I'm jumping into this kind of late, but what are the differences between a 610 and an Eager Beaver 3.7? I got an EB 3.7 for free, 20" bar, doesn't run. I'm taking it to the shop today and the guy agreed to look at it no charge to see if its salvagable. The two saws seem the same so I'm just curious. If I can make this one a runner I'm going to throw a new Oregon bar on it, gut the muffler (what little there is to gut) and have some fun with it.
 
Nice saws and that homemade spike is Gnarly Mean looking!
:chainsaw:

Did you make that spike or was it on the saw when you got it?

No, I didn't make those, those are custom made by a guy in Eureka, CA, I probably got a dozen sets from him. They are Redwood spikes. I almost always pitched the stock spikes. I do miss the days when you could walk in to a shop, either find what spikes you wanted or have them whip out a set for you. I think I paid $10-12 bucks for them back in the mid 1970s.

A few more

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