McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian Thacker]

I am editing the videos right now and will put them on youtube. I just started the camera and let it roll and I am not sure when I ran out of disk space but it shows an hour of video. I should have been starting and stopping it but with everything going on I kept forgetting. I think the almost new DE80 seamed to cut really well and I really liked the way it felt. I do have to agree with Ron, Not because it is my saw but my PM800 with the big muffler seamed to perform a little better than the others but not by much. I am thing a lot of it could have been that that saw was near the last saw we tested and I feel that both of us were getting our technics down because neither of us were used to cutting cookies. I think we could have just been getting smoother rather than the saw performing better. All in all I feel that all the saws we tested we almost equal. Most of the difference in the saws was the vibration. I was wearing gloves with each and none were very bad. Videos to come.

 

[rwoods]

Maybe just put it on YouTube?

I tried at least 10 times now. It goes through the whole countdown process and then says an error has occurred. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Ron

 

[Nickolas]

.??? L

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[rwoods]

I just learned from a post on another site that the DE 80 carb sports a govenor. That explains a lot. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Here is some videos of our day.

 

[Brian Thacker]

The videos are backwards. The bottom one is us starting, the second one is us doing round 2 and the first one is just us playing. I don't remember what saw Ron had but he was almost down because of the heat, it was 90+ degrees. The saw I was using was a 10-10 Pro while playing.
The first saw we tested, And Ron correct me if I am wrong is the PM850 that I rebuilt, the second was Ron's Double Eagle 80, The third was Ron's PM800 and the last was my PM800.

 

[Brian Thacker]

And if you wonder what else I do for fun

 

[rwoods]

Saws in order of videos: SP40 running at 80% throttle - new throttle rod in the mail to me. Brian's 10-10. PM 850. DE 80. My PM 800. Brian's PM 800.

I was feeling terrible and it shows in the first video. That is what I get for spending 158 hours a week between 68 and 72 then 10 hours at 90+. Brian graciously edited out me flooding my 800 and wearing myself out starting it.

Brian is being modest about his 800. It was clearly stronger than the others. True our techiques were improved by the time we got to it, but it was nonetheless stronger. The two 800s were both second in line on the chains. You can look at the bars to see which saw preceded on the same chain if you are interested.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Now a request for ideas. My DSP was loose again after the tach test as was the muffler - a reoccurring theme.

I can't locate a source for the special muffler bolt so I can't use the factory locking strap. I have the bolts safety wired but apparently the heat is enough to allow some play. Any ideas?

Short of making a locking tab for the DSP, any ideas on keeping it tight?

Thanks, Ron

 

[joeymt33]

Now a request for ideas. My DSP was loose again after the tach test as was the muffler - a reoccurring theme.

I can't locate a source for the special muffler bolt so I can't use the factory locking strap. I have the bolts safety wired but apparently the heat is enough to allow some play. Any ideas?

Short of making a locking tab for the DSP, any ideas on keeping it tight?

Thanks, Ron

That's strange Ron, I haven't had this issue. I really don't know what could be causing this.

Have you checked the torque specs and properly torqued it down? Sorry if I missed that earlier.

Another thought, does it have a copper washer under it? Not sure if that maters or not. If I remember right, I noticed mine had those washers. It's been awhile though since I've torn one down. They've been running too good and filled the wood shed.




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[rwoods]

Unless the washer came with the valve, no. This is an older 800 that I converted. I will check. Thanks, Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

They make high temp lock tight. Also I might have a copper washer to fit it. The other thing that I have that might work is some exhaust gasket sealer that has copper in it. We can put that on the threads and tighten it up really good and see if that will work. It would seal it and hold it in place. I have tie wire from back in my aviation and race days. Maybe put it in the drill press and drill a hole in one corner of the bolt and tie it to something. Just my thoughts on it. It should have had a copper sealing washer on it.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I have also got to get me a 24 inch bar for that saw. The 28 I have on it is just too much for me most of the time. It is nice at times but the 24 would be better most of the time.

 

[disturbednny]

Hi All,

I'm a little confused with this, but I noticed that the bar on my eager beaver 2.0 was all the way forward today and the chain was still loose. I counted and I have 49 drive links on the 14 inch bar I have. The chain is at its half life, but it shouldn't be stretched that far already should it? I'm almost thinking my grandfather dressed the bar too low as the drive links also hit the bottom of the groove before the tie straps (or at least it feels that way). should I start with a new chain first with 49 drive links? what should the depth be on the bar groove?

Also, does anyone know where I could get some bar plates? It seems my grandfather had lost them at some point.

 

[Brian Thacker]

Hi All,

I'm a little confused with this, but I noticed that the bar on my eager beaver 2.0 was all the way forward today and the chain was still loose. I counted and I have 49 drive links on the 14 inch bar I have. The chain is at its half life, but it shouldn't be stretched that far already should it? I'm almost thinking my grandfather dressed the bar too low as the drive links also hit the bottom of the groove before the tie straps (or at least it feels that way). should I start with a new chain first with 49 drive links? what should the depth be on the bar groove?

Also, does anyone know where I could get some bar plates? It seems my grandfather had lost them at some point.

It sounds like your bar is worn out if the drive links are hitting the bottom of the bar and the links are not touching the guides o the bar it sounds like it is worn out. Bar plates are not necessary. They are nice if you have them but if you don't it is not that bad of a thing. Most of my 10-10s do not have bar plates and they operate fine.

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, Brian. I'll give you a call or drop in. The muffler bolts at the port are safety wired but as you could tell the muffler was loose. Attaching the muffler to the DSP was just to give it more support. Maybe all that jiggling of the muffler is loosening the DSP. The IPL doesn't show a washer for either the non-DSP or the DSP models. I can't tell you how many 1/16th" drill bits I have gone through while drilling holes in hardened bolts.

MAC 24" bars are hard to find. But they are probably the most versatile for what we encounter here. You may have to use another brand with an adapter. I have my eyes on a NOS bar and chain but it is out of state and it comes with a PM610 which I don't need or want. May make an offer on it anyway.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

disturbednny, maybe the bar is for 1/4" pitch chain and you are using 3/8" chain. I don't know but it would be worth the look. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Oregon makes a 24" bar 240RNDD176 that they say will fit a 800 saw. They show either a 81 or 84 DL chain that fits it. Found one on Amazon for 60.00

 

[disturbednny]

The bar has 050 .375 SC on it and the chain is a McCulloch mini 370 with tie strap bumpers. I'm guessing my grandfather used it without keeping up with the manual oiler and ran it loose and dressed the bar down too far. Those three things would cause it to stretch and wear faster right?

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