McCulloch Chain Saws

[axeandwedge]

Here are some of my McCullough saws . I get them out to work when I can.

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[rocketnorton]

one of my 3

 

[heimannm]

I have a few saws myself.


840



Super 550



450



300



1-46



1-85



Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pulled out a couple of mine for some basic cleaning/maintenance and a general going over now that I'm almost caught up on a ton of lesser projects and Buckin' Billy Ray has gotten the Mac itch in me going again. (Sorry for the non-yellow clutter, btw.) The SP81 has needed a crank from the day I found it..., about three years ago. Was intended to be my first real Mac tear down and still will be. I just hope I bought the right crank back before I knew anything about Macs except everyone hated Mini-Macs and Timberbear 610's. I ended up with a few of those along with quite a few others over time, too. Not on purpose, mind you.

Will most likely have questions as I get into the SP81. Has some type of electronic trigger module in it now. Oddly, it came with a brand new points setup that I want to use instead. Starts right up as is, but I want to stay true to the saw. Still haven't decided whether or not to re-paint it. Not much left anywhere on it. Did come with a real nice 28" Mac Speed Tip bar and nearly new chain. I'm excited to finally get started on it.

I also have another Super250 project in a box and absolutely no idea where to begin with that one...., probably here.

 

[heimannm]

The original SP81E was a two piece ignition system. Here is the two piece on the left, and the later one piece on the right.



Two piece set up on the saw, the coil in underneath, the trigger mechanism on the side where the coil normally mounts.





The one piece ignition module installed. The same module is used on the 600 Series saws with a longer high tension lead.



I find the later versions of the electronic ignition are pretty reliable and deliver a hot spark. That said, I like to put points in saws that were intended to run with points. I see an Atom module in the bottom of your SP81 as well, seem the original owner had lots of ideas on how to achieve a spark.

One nice thing about the McCulloch 10 Series is the flywheels and ignition parts will freely interchange. You can put an electronic coil on any of the older saws with the original flywheel and it will work. The only limitation is that the later electronic ignition saws don't have the points cam on the crank shaft so you would need to change the crank shaft if you wanted to put points on saw that was originally electronic ignition.

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for that info. I have the later ignition style which is still presumably for a points ignition? I checked the eBay crank I bought and it is the points cam version..., hopefully for this saw. Haven't checked the IPL yet for part # verification.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

According to the SP81 IPL I have, the crank is part# 86193 and the one I bought back when is an 83793. I'm not even gonna start searching for what it's used on. There's a NOS 86193 on eBay for $79.00, but that's a little out of my range for this saw right now.

 

[axeandwedge]

All this work just to change a spark plug No seriously ,been sitting for 20 odd years or so and wanted to see the state of the interior before trying to run it.

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[axeandwedge]

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[Griffdog1]

Bloody Mcculloch's. Bought this PM570 as a non runner to get the switch and a few bits for my 850 and what to you know, after a clean (noticing its good Mcculloch bar and as new stihl chain) and a tune...

 

[heimannm]

Poge - If the crankshaft you have is in fact the 1.5" throw, use it.

Nice thing about the 10 Series; there are only two different crankshafts (1.375 and 1.500 throw), both versions with or without the points cam. The different part numbers relate to earlier models with a key and RH threads on the clutch side, later ones without a key and LH threads on the clutch side.

axe - show us some photos of the rotary valves in that unit.





Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks, Mark. I sure hope I can use it, but I get 3/4" throw from the center of the crank to the center of the crank pin which obviously equates to a 1.5 stroke if that's what you mean. (The angle of the pic isn't a very accurate image of the ruler relative to the crank.) And on that coil..., are you saying that it's an electronic coil with an unnecessary Atom module? (Haven't gotten far enough into my Mac documentation yet to examine that possibility myself.)

​

 

[heimannm]

You are correct in your terminology, 3/4" throw make a 1.5" stroke. Don't let the number in the forging throw you off, that should be the right crankshaft.

That coil is a points style coil in your photo. I should clarify my comments above, as the block/cylinder will either accept a points style coil in the location you show, or the electronic coil in the position shown in my photo a few posts earlier; you can't swap the points coil for the electronic coil or vice versa. The rest of the statement is accurate, the same crankshaft and flywheel works with either a points or electronic ignition.

Someone tried to replace the points with the Atom module in yours, that is the device attached to the bottom of the shroud with a screw and a nut with one lead connected to the primary side of the coil. The condenser is still there, probably the points are hiding behind the cover. You will need to make up one lead to connect the points to the primary side of the coil, from that small stud sticking out of the bottom of the points box to where the Atom lead connects to the coil.

I have a couple of NOS electronic coils that look just like the points coil, but have the electronic trigger built in. They are rather rare, as I have never seen or heard of another example of a coil like that. If I ever get home again I will try to brave the cold and get up in the attic to snap a photo or two.

Still quite warm here in Tres Lagoas, Brasil, should be around 35 degrees (C) today with 90% humidity.

Mark

 

[svk]

You are correct in your terminology, 3/4" throw make a 1.5" stroke. Don't let the number in the forging throw you off, that should be the right crankshaft.

That coil is a points style coil in your photo. I should clarify my comments above, as the block/cylinder will either accept a points style coil in the location you show, or the electronic coil in the position shown in my photo a few posts earlier; you can't swap the points coil for the electronic coil or vice versa. The rest of the statement is accurate, the same crankshaft and flywheel works with either a points or electronic ignition.

Someone tried to replace the points with the Atom module in yours, that is the device attached to the bottom of the shroud with a screw and a nut with one lead connected to the primary side of the coil. The condenser is still there, probably the points are hiding behind the cover. You will need to make up one lead to connect the points to the primary side of the coil, from that small stud sticking out of the bottom of the points box to where the Atom lead connects to the coil.

I have a couple of NOS electronic coils that look just like the points coil, but have the electronic trigger built in. They are rather rare, as I have never seen or heard of another example of a coil like that. If I ever get home again I will try to brave the cold and get up in the attic to snap a photo or two.

Still quite warm here in Tres Lagoas, Brasil, should be around 35 degrees (C) today with 90% humidity.

Mark

If you are in Brazil you should import some of those 2 series Huskys upon your return and the guys on here will go nuts over them!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I appreciate the clarification, Mark. And I'm somewhat familiar with these ignition conversions and the weird lengths some folks will go to eliminate a perfectly good points setup.
This saw came with a box of goodies including a brand new points set, new coil like the one already in it, three flywheels, a bunch of other odds n ends, but no spare / new condenser. The existing points (still installed) look great. Wonder if all it really needed was a condenser in the first place? Guess I'll find out. Now if I could only get that Atom module to work in the 056 I have with one of the notoriously failed SEM ignitions!

And enjoy the southern hemisphere weather while you can. It's a bit chilly back up here in the heartland.

 

[astnmacgto]

@heimannm, do those atom modules work at all on the large frame saws? Or is it a mistake trying to use one.

 

[heimannm]

I have not used one myself, but Scott Mueller who heads up the chainsaw portion of the Baraboo (Badger Steam and Gas Engine) event has one in his 250 and that saw is hard to beat.

I have acquired a few saws, a 1-62 or 1-63 in particular that had the Atom module installed, I changed it out for points.

I don't know any reason they would not work in the large frame saws, someone said you need to keep them away from heat.

Mark

 

[astnmacgto]

I've used those modules on a few of my 10 series saws, that A. Was having trouble with consistent spark and B. Had a module at the house and no points parts and I must say it livend up my pro mac 60 and 7-10a quite a bit.
Generally if a saw has good spark or can be achieved by filing the points I won't bother with a module. But I don't mind using them either.

 

[astnmacgto]

I did notice that someone on ebay is now repopping the 4 1/8 in spaced bucking spikes for the early 10 series

Custom chainsaw parts I believe

I'm thinking about snagging one to try out, they are only 12 bucks

 

[astnmacgto]

Does anyone have a pro mac 690 in their fleet? I'm curious to know about them. I'm going to pick up one this week that was built as a factory chopsaw it is kinda neat