Use a bolt and nut. Preferably a bolt with a counter sunk head and a locking nut of some sort.
Brian
Brian
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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The stock fasteners for the 10 Series spikes was a 10-14 hex head bolt and a self locking nut.
There are hex pocket cast into the clutch cover to capture/contain the nuts. You can punch the holes out, but it is neater to use a drill.
The large frame saws used a flat head screw (countersunk) but you must be careful when tightening them, over do it and you can split the clutch cover or mounts on the oil tank.
Mark
There are hex pocket cast into the clutch cover to capture/contain the nuts. You can punch the holes out, but it is neater to use a drill.
The large frame saws used a flat head screw (countersunk) but you must be careful when tightening them, over do it and you can split the clutch cover or mounts on the oil tank.
Mark
You are right Mark. Ron has had me working on big frame saws all summer. Though I have several 10 Series saws I have not worked with them in several months. Thanks for the correction.
Brian
Brian
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Used sheet metal hole punch as it has good size selection. Cut a bit off in triangle shape to allow fuel flow around disk. Will finish off the ole girl later
BigBoyNasty
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi, i was gunna try and start my dads old 125c sp 2maro-any suggestions for good fuel/mix??? Ive unbolted and cleaned the muffler flushed the tank and bore etc....ive got vintage mac mix if i have to ill open a can!
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DO NOT use vintage mix as it may cause damage. Use fresh good quality synthetic or semi synthetic mix at around 32:1 or 40:1.
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
What caused all of the paint to flake off the inside of a pro Mac 10-10 gas tank?
Thanks
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Thanks
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Mac&Homelite
Addicted to ArboristSite
On the one that I just got this fall it had some fuel from the last user and when I was dumping it out it was bubbling the paint in the tank as well as near the cap. When I put in my pre-mix (no ethanol) it didn't seem to touch the paint anymore. Ethanol is nasty stuff.
BigBoyNasty
ArboristSite Lurker
Ya it seems to me like a lot of saws and tractors and such that were put away dry during regular leaded non ethanol gas days 30+years ago have surpzingly sound rubber fuel lines and tanks...i wonder if they had better rubber back then?
BigBoyNasty
ArboristSite Lurker
Good call thanks! ive heard of some weird things happening to old new oil seperating and stratosphiing and into other oils and such
I have rescued motorcycles and lawn mowers, tillers and such that have been in garages or barns for 10 or 15 years and start it up on the fuel that was in it or add some fresh fuel to the fuel that was in the tank. But that was 20 or so years ago when you had good fuel. The crap that is out there now days will eat the fuel lines and kill the carb in just a few days. It has ate the paint off my shop floor!!! I have spilt some and step in it while working and the next thing I know I am sliding around the shop because it is melting the bottoms of my shoes!!!
Brian
Brian
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
It must have been the ethanol gas then. A repair shop deemed it unfixable but it has great compression and spark and everything looks to in great shape other the the peeling paint.
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Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
CP70L SDC carb kit installed
Cannot get a satisfactory adjustment. Low seems good, go for high responds pretty fair then back off to check idle and it blubbers rich until ot dies. Hard starting rich and have to hold throttle open to clear and it starts but is very rich. I think the trouble is my homemade main jet check disk. Anyone have success making one? If so how and of what?
Also is the brass insert driven flush to the top of fit? Fuel seems to get through fine but does not seal off when idling. Does this sound right?
Cannot get a satisfactory adjustment. Low seems good, go for high responds pretty fair then back off to check idle and it blubbers rich until ot dies. Hard starting rich and have to hold throttle open to clear and it starts but is very rich. I think the trouble is my homemade main jet check disk. Anyone have success making one? If so how and of what?
Also is the brass insert driven flush to the top of fit? Fuel seems to get through fine but does not seal off when idling. Does this sound right?
Walter,
Check this test out from the manual,
Failing fixing it if that's the issue, you can still buy them from Walbro
I believe the PN is 86-523
Check this test out from the manual,
Failing fixing it if that's the issue, you can still buy them from Walbro
I believe the PN is 86-523
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Will do
Thanks eh!
Thanks eh!
I ran into a similar problem on a SDC (XL-76). Slow to return to idle and erratic high speed. That check valve is the capillary style. I am not sure what that material is that the disk is made of. I picked up the 86-523 kit Tim mentioned and swapped the whole thing out. Ran very well after. There are "bosses" in the bottom of that pocket that that disk sits on. My original one had a slight curl to it. Was likely pulling air back into the low speed circuit and resonating somewhat at high speed.
Only cost $5 or so.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Will go check in a few minutes
Report back asap
Edit:
Tested Check valve blow good sucking failed. So made a new disk and left it round. Measured it up and with seat driven to the same depth as its boss the disk has 0.015" of movement.
Suck and blow seems quite good so back together.
Saw runs pretty good once the screws were set. Sure seems finicky compared to my tilly carbed saws.
Now back to needing that better bar n chain (back on my P41)
Will give her a go later.
Walter
Report back asap
Edit:
Tested Check valve blow good sucking failed. So made a new disk and left it round. Measured it up and with seat driven to the same depth as its boss the disk has 0.015" of movement.
Suck and blow seems quite good so back together.
Saw runs pretty good once the screws were set. Sure seems finicky compared to my tilly carbed saws.
Now back to needing that better bar n chain (back on my P41)
Will give her a go later.
Walter
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
Is the Pro Mac 555 a direct ancestor of the 10-10s? Looks almost identical and seems to have the same 3.5 cu in engine. Good or bad things about that saw?
Rob
Rob
More or less as is the Pro Mac 55. I'm sure someone will drop in to explain some of the differences. I believe the top end is one of them with the 10-10S having a cast iron sleeved cylinder instead of chrome plated aluminum along with having electronic ignition. The good is they're all 57cc 10 series saws. Not sure about the bad beyond the normal idiosyncrasies associated with the 10 series in any given 'era' of production.
The PM555 was later than the PM55, PM555 had the long clutch cover whereas the PM55 had the short clutch cover. I find the PM55 more maneuverable. They are 57 cc vs. 54 for the regular 10-10 saws and like the PM55/570/10-10S I find them to be a bit peppier but I may be prejudice since I have a rebuilt PM55 with NOS piston and cylinder that really runs well. The PM570 is the anti-vibe version of the same saw.
The PM555 were evidently transitional models as my IPL's show both electronic ignition and points ignition so I suppose McCulloch was using up old inventory on these models. The 10-10S were all later models with electronic ignition only.
Mike Acres site says the 10-10S is sleeved but that is not always authoritative.
I will run out when I have a chance and look at the cylinders I have to see if any are chrome plated.
Did I mention I really like my PM55?
Mark
The PM555 were evidently transitional models as my IPL's show both electronic ignition and points ignition so I suppose McCulloch was using up old inventory on these models. The 10-10S were all later models with electronic ignition only.
Mike Acres site says the 10-10S is sleeved but that is not always authoritative.
I will run out when I have a chance and look at the cylinders I have to see if any are chrome plated.
Did I mention I really like my PM55?
Mark
