McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

I found two of 214672 which are PM10-10S cylinders that are chrome plated.

The PM55/555 call out for 89435 which I believe to be sleeved cylinders. I may have to dig further as I thought I had another in the attic but didn't see it in the usual spot.

The PM570 calls out for 92693 which should be the 89435 with the impulse nipple in the crank case.

10-10S calls for 216061 in the '82 and 214672 in the '92 editions which I will assume are both chrome.

Mark

 

[Brian Van]

I have rescued motorcycles and lawn mowers, tillers and such that have been in garages or barns for 10 or 15 years and start it up on the fuel that was in it or add some fresh fuel to the fuel that was in the tank. But that was 20 or so years ago when you had good fuel. The crap that is out there now days will eat the fuel lines and kill the carb in just a few days. It has ate the paint off my shop floor!!! I have spilt some and step in it while working and the next thing I know I am sliding around the shop because it is melting the bottoms of my shoes!!!

Brian

I got to say this about gas now compared to then, it is definitely cleaner and less likely to have water in it. Remember when you stayed away from a station cause it messed your car up. Better regulations took care of the crooks that tried to sell that bad gas. Now if we could improve the ethanol. We'd have it made.

 

[Brian Van]

I found two of 214672 which are PM10-10S cylinders that are chrome plated.

The PM55/555 call out for 89435 which I believe to be sleeved cylinders. I may have to dig further as I thought I had another in the attic but didn't see it in the usual spot.

The PM570 calls out for 92693 which should be the 89435 with the impulse nipple in the crank case.

10-10S calls for 216061 in the '82 and 214672 in the '92 editions which I will assume are both chrome.

Mark

Mark, buddy, is there anything you don't have? Lol, wow! You got parts everywhere. It's cool though. I wish I had half the knowledge you have.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Mike Acres site says the 10-10S is sleeved but that is not always authoritative.

i was a bit skeptical about that myself as the sleeved cylinders seem to have already run their course by the 10-10S era. There's always that Mac-exception, of course.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Just showing a 555 I sold for $75 local. Got traded in by original owner.
Made my ears bleed running it. Yep you need ear plugs on this one for sure.

 

[BigBlue]

Scored myself a real clean Pro Mac 555 today. As mentioned previously, it is mostly identical to my early 80's vintage 10-10s. No leaks, runs good. Nice to add to the herd.

Rob

 

[heimannm]

You will enjoy running that saw when you need a small one.

Mark

 

[Brian Thacker]

Finally getting around to putting the replated cylinder on my PM800. Rainy Saturday, I should have been doing other things but did not feel like it and wanted to get my PM800 back in operation. It feels really good as the other cylinder for some reason the rings were loose even though it was a new piston and rings they rattled and had up and down play in them. I could not find the spec for this so I just assumed it was alright sense the piston and ring was in the same box. I am going to have to find a new set of rings for this B cylinder. So I now have to get the old cylinder replated for a backup.




Brian

 

[BigBlue]

You will enjoy running that saw when you need a small one.

Mark

I know the 10-10s and similar saw models like the 555 are not the largest Macs but I never considered it a small saw. My dad's 10-10s that I have now has always out-cut any other non-professional level saw I've happened across. If you consider these saws 'small' then I can't wait until I get my PM800 back in actio and see how it rips! Got to figure out the seals for that one yet and then I can get everything ordered.

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

So I measured the seals on the crankshaft of my PM 800 to make sure I know what to order. I haven't had time to go back through this thread and find all the specs from the previously mentioned seals to confirm part numbers, but that is my next step. Any thoughts or advice appreciated...

 

[BigBlue]

Dang-it. Sorry they came in upside down. I'll have to see if I can fix that...

 

[fossil]

So I measured the seals on the crankshaft of my PM 800 to make sure I know what to order. I haven't had time to go back through this thread and find all the specs from the previously mentioned seals to confirm part numbers, but that is my next step. Any thoughts or advice appreciated...

View attachment 609495 View attachment 609496 View attachment 609497 View attachment 609498

FW side Mac PN 61618 crosses to National (Timken) 471551

PTO side Mac PN 110260 crosses to SKF 6119 or 6120 (6119 has the dust seal)

 

[djones]

Dang-it. Sorry they came in upside down. I'll have to see if I can fix that...

I have found that my local NAPA dealer can get or has many of the seals that I require to make repairs on my saws. Just give them the dimensions and they can find them.

 

[BigBlue]

Thanks Fossil and djones!

Rob

 

[Brian Thacker]

Got my PM 800 back together tonight. Performed the first heat cycle and it started and ran great. I did not check the compression but it seamed to be very high. It kicked once on the first start and about took my fingers off. It seams to start and run better than it did with the interim well used B cylinder I had on it. Looking at the plating on it I think it is worn out. I know it did not have near the compression that it had with the old A cylinder. Now it has the old cylinder but newly replated A cylinder on it. Time will tell but I think it is back to it's old self with maybe a little more compression.

Brian

 

[Mac&Homelite]

So I am sure this has been asked many times before, but does the 10-series gas caps use homelite or poulan style duckbill valves? Second, does the oil reservoir have a valve somewhere? I've never been in a 10-series before so I don't quite know.

 

[Walter Glover]

So I am sure this has been asked many times before, but does the 10-series gas caps use homelite or poulan style duckbill valves? Second, does the oil reservoir have a valve somewhere? I've never been in a 10-series before so I don't quite know.

I would like to know how to fix the cap on my cp70l
It is not a duckbill rather a spring and a rubber piece of some sort. Mine was all messed up.
Hoping for help......

 

[heimannm]

You can replace the duckbill valve in the fuel cap with either the red Homelite or the green Poulan duckbill valves, but you may have to enlarge the opening to accommodate the Homelite valve on some models with the plastic insert. Some of the older IPL's actually have a breakdown of the fuel cap parts in order.



No modifications are necessary for caps with the brass insert.



Other caps are more difficult to disassemble without breaking them, they will accept the red Homelite valve without further modification, I haven't tried the green Poulan valve in one of these.



There are other fuel caps that do not come apart, at lease I haven't figured out how to disassemble one.

Early oil caps were not vented, the oil tank had a small hole with a cotter pin stuck in it to minimize oil leaking out. Later tanks did not have the vent hole and the caps were vented. There are a few IPL's that show a duckbill valve in the oil cap but they do not clearly show how it is held in place, see Power Head Figure 7 in the attached IPL.

On some of the oil caps you can see a black plastic disc that presses into the cap, usually they have a hole that aligns with a pin in the cap, that disc is supposed to hold the check valve in place, or at least create a baffle to slow the oil down as it leaks out...

I haven't encountered a rubber disc and spring but I suppose the rubber disc goes in first, a spring to close the vent, and that black disc I mentioned to hold it all in place. Look in the bottom of your oil tank to see if the disc has fallen out.

Mark

 

[Walter Glover]

Mark, thank you!
Mine is the first photo and the innards came out the same. I presume the spring is for overpressure and then a duckbill of sorts for vacuum vent?
When you 'fix' them do you use the spring?
Walter

 

[heimannm]

The spring is necessary to keep them from leaking under normal conditions, the spring seals the duckbill valve to the cap. In case of overpressure, the spring will relieve and allow the pressure to escape. Ideally the cap will vent before the metering spring in the carburetor is overcome by fuel pressure which would result in flooding the engine.

The duckbill valve prevents the tank from developing a vacuum by allowing atmospheric pressure in.

Mark