McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Don't laugh too soon. The SP40 runs 1/4" as well. And has a sprocket nose bar. My old PM510 would outcut many 50cc saws of its day. I always attributed it to the chain. 3/8 versus 1/4. I know it wasn't my skill.

I don't know how to account for chain differences but a 60cc shootout would be fun in some of that straight red oak from yesterday. I can bring a well used 036Pro, a warmed up 361 and a nonM 362. I think we can borrow a 562.

Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Sounds like a lot of fun. The weather is cooling off and makes a nice time to do the shootout.
I looked up the SP40 on the chainsaw collectors site before I opened my mouth and it showed 3/8LP chain... Looks like I opened my mouth too soon....HaHaHa.

Brian

 

[rocketnorton]

A lot of wood got cut today without breaking anything. Then I go home, unload my MACs and drive my truck into a stump in my own yard. Felt like a really idiot. Ron

View attachment 610806

trucks need real bumpers, not air dams, aimed at better mileage. hence the name "bumper". both mine got dents, too, cause I might push stuff...

 

[sawfun]

By the way it may not look like it but the PM6A has a 14" bar. It looks like a 12" because it is a 1/4" chain.
We need to have one of our famous shootouts with your SP40 and my PM6A. We also need to have a 60cc shoot out. I think you have a Stihl 60cc, I have a Husky 262XP 60cc and the McCulloch SP 610 60cc and see which one comes out on top. Spite the heat I had fun doing the 80cc shootout. I think it would be a fun afternoon of sawing.
Then when I get my SP125c running we can do a shootout between them.

Brian

I was able to do a hotrod 120cc shootout in some big Doug Fir a few years back between my 101b and my Slingerized 880 and MMWS 088. All wore 36" bars though the Mac ran 404 and the Stihls 3/8. All wore new full skip round chisel. The Stihls had to have modified light bars to balance well, the Mac balanced just fine with the heavy, semi fat old Oregon bar and will almost balance with a 50". The Stihls were noticeably faster, but their carbs were a lot bigger than the SDC 20 the 101b had. Also the Mac ran the larger kerf chain. The Stihls ran a 9 pin and the 101b a 7 pin. The Mac did not do as well with the 8 pin but seemed a want a 7 pin raker down setup. The saw powerhead weights were relatively close. Felt vibes were the same, with the Stihls ergonomics noticeably nicer. Overall, had the Mac had The same size car as the Stihl and been running 3/8, it would have kicked the Stihls's azz.

 

[sawfun]

Despite my little just for fun projects I am trying to have fewer saws to take care of, otherwise I would take you up on the PM6A. I limbed a lot of trees in my youth with a PM6A. If I ever get around to fixing the throttle linkage on the SP40 I'll race you with your PM6A. I'll have a displacement advantage on you but a longer bar.

I do feel bad about the SP125C being less than we expected.

Ron

I seriously have to ask, how is a SP125C less than anyone expected? They kick azz hard over any stock 088/880 all day long. And with a fixed jet H side you just get to cutting and don't have to spend time tuning it. They run like a gear drive with up to a 50" bar and handle well. They never work up a sweat and don't leave the operator tired either. They just reliably cut all day long. They are no 101b or race saw, but are no slouch either. I never met any 125 I didn't like. Rant over

 

[rwoods]

I seriously have to ask, how is a SP125C less than anyone expected? They kick azz hard over any stock 088/880 all day long. And with a fixed jet H side you just get to cutting and don't have to spend time tuning it. They run like a gear drive with up to a 50" bar and handle well. They never work up a sweat and don't leave the operator tired either. They just reliably cut all day long. They are no 101b or race saw, but are no slouch either. I never met any 125 I didn't like. Rant over

After our trade, Brian discovered that the pto side bearing had been spun in the case and case repaired with epoxy. Not good.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

trucks need real bumpers, not air dams, aimed at better mileage. hence the name "bumper". both mine got dents, too, cause I might push stuff...

Blew the plastic out on driver's side. Just now used the offending stump to pull bumper out so plastic is somewhat back in place. Of course, the flimsy metal now has two outward hook impressions.

Ron

 

[brandonstc6]

How do you remove the wrist pin from McCulloch saws with the cap over one side of the wrist pin? It seems like there is grit in my rod bearings.


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[heimannm]

You have to press the bearings out and replace the bearings when you put it back together. I don't have the numbers written down but they are standard bearings you can order from most any reputable manufacturer.

Mark

 

[leeha]

As Mark stated. The pistons that use the one blind bearing you have to push the
wrist pin out against the blind bearing to push both out. Then replace both bearings.

 

[Brian Thacker]

Don't laugh too soon. The SP40 runs 1/4" as well. And has a sprocket nose bar. My old PM510 would outcut many 50cc saws of its day. I always attributed it to the chain. 3/8 versus 1/4. I know it wasn't my skill.

I don't know how to account for chain differences but a 60cc shootout would be fun in some of that straight red oak from yesterday. I can bring a well used 036Pro, a warmed up 361 and a nonM 362. I think we can borrow a 562.

Ron

I don't know if you have any 1/4 chain, if not I bought a 25' reel of Oregon 25AP chain if you need any chain for it.
I have found a shim that will get my SP125c PTO side bearing and also one for the seal back to where they need to be. I think like 6.00 each. No big deal. I get them and I will be ready to go. I cannot wait to get that thing back together and see how well it will rip threw some big wood.

Brian

 

[buzz sawyer]

HELP! I have a fully restored 3-25 that leaks gas when I tried to start it. Looks like it it coming from the fuel tank and I'm questioning whether I have the internal connections together correctly. Here are a few photos - first is before and after. This is the only saw I have that I have not been able to get started and after all the work I have in it, it's driving me nuts.

 

[brandonstc6]

Thanks for the help on bearings, I’ll get them pressed out


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[heimannm]

Here is the only electronic version of the 3-25 IPL that I have. Perhaps it will help.

Mark

 

[buzz sawyer]

Here is the only electronic version of the 3-25 IPL that I have. Perhaps it will help.

Mark

Thanks Mark. That helps. How well does the tank swivel need to seal on the fitting in the tank? Can a bad seal cause it to leak or would that just not let it draw fuel?

 

[Walter Glover]

Using the helpful tips Mark posted I fixed the fuel cap on the CP70L
Drilled the plug 0.165" dia x 5/16" deep
Made a spring follower that fits into duckbill and spring pics tell the rest

Tested and pops at approx 2psi maybe less and no fuel leak when held upside down. Success!
Thanks Mark!!!!

 

[heimannm]

I you want to mass produce your spring guide, I would buy a dozen or more. Great idea and nice work. The original McCulloch design had a similar type of brass guide but those are often missing.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

Sorry Buzz, I haven't had to get inside the tank of a big one in a while so I can't picture how critical the swivel would be.

Mark

 

[buzz sawyer]

W

Sorry Buzz, I haven't had to get inside the tank of a big one in a while so I can't picture how critical the swivel would be.

Mark

Understood, no problem. If the purpose of the swivel is to ensure the pickup is always submerged in fuel, then it would have to rotate freely. When I finish with the Super 33, I'll pull the 3-25 tank, add liquid (maybe kerosene) and look for leaks.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If you want to mass produce your spring guide.....,

Looks to be fashioned from a small barb fitting coupler with each end snipped off..., or certainly could be if not. Great idea whatever it is.