joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I may still have pieces or a mostly complete brown timber bear saw. I’ll try to remember to look for it.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I may still have pieces or a mostly complete brown timber bear saw. I’ll try to remember to look for it.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
There’s one on eBay now.
https://www.ebay.com/p/McCulloch-Pro-Mac-605-Chainsaw/77588052?iid=312191409337
https://www.ebay.com/p/McCulloch-Pro-Mac-605-Chainsaw/77588052?iid=312191409337
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I have a brown timber bear. It's actually more of a bronze color. It runs excellent and is in pretty decent shape. Up for sale or trade if anyone is interested.
As I mentioned elsewhere, I think that Silver Eagle would look kinda cool with one of the gray and black Mac bars.
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I can assure you that the one I have is definitely that color originally, I got it from my old boss who was the original owner and used it very little.
Kevin - If I don't end up with the one on e-Bay right now I will get back to you on the brown Timber Bear.
Mark
Mark
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Ok Mark, let me know. Like I said, mine is actually in really nice shape, still wearing the original bar though my old boss drilled two 1/2" holes through it for some reason though it doesnt seem to affect it at all.
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That one on Ebay looks pretty rough.
emf123
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I agree, the ultimate McCinderblock collection deserves much better!!! You can't put that in the museum!!!
am in need of couple mc790 gov parts, if anyone has & will part with.
55958 arm ass. gov.
61757 spring. gov.
lemme know what ya need. tia.
55958 arm ass. gov.
61757 spring. gov.
lemme know what ya need. tia.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Pete, I should have some of those parts, since I took the governor off of my 795 and 790. It'll be a couple days until I dig them out though.
I find the saws run decent without the governor, do you need it to control the throttle butterfly on the flatback?
yep. no solid connection bet trigger and throttle shaft. idles high, but will come down if ya manually close it.
thought bout putting hl on it. like to keep fb, tho. it [saw's] in nice shape. if I'm moddin it, the better parts will end up on 797.
thought bout putting hl on it. like to keep fb, tho. it [saw's] in nice shape. if I'm moddin it, the better parts will end up on 797.
Ok, What fuel lines is everyone using for 10 series saws? I replaced fuel lines on all of my 10-10 and 10-10s saws back in the winter. Today I got my 10-10S out to use it. I fueled it up and started smelling fuel. I opened up the carburetor compartment and it was full of fuel and it was leaking from around the tank where the fuel line goes threw and was hard as a rock. I know I changed it not too long ago. I run non ethanol 93 octane fuel. Not sure what is going on. Why are these lines prone to hardening and shrinking? Where can I find good fuel lines?
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I know the chainsaw guy on YouTube had a rubber grommet/tygon combination he was selling as a kit for the 10 series. Maybe contact him and see if he still has them available.
The aftermarket fuel line don't seem to be any good, best bet is try to find NOS. I also found the aftermarket line would get hard and split. For a leak where the line passes through the tank, try so few wraps of Teflon tape.
Some guys use a grommet in the tank and pull a straight hose through it, kit have the parts but haven't tried that myself.
Mark
Some guys use a grommet in the tank and pull a straight hose through it, kit have the parts but haven't tried that myself.
Mark
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
I've had that issue too. As Mark notes, put a few wraps of teflon tape around the line where it passes through the tank wall and that will help seal things up.
Leaks are some of the biggest pains on these Macs. The collection I have almost universally leaks the bar oil out, some leak around the gas cap, and I've had the fuel line issues. I have found an eBay supplier for gas cap cork gaskets that seems to work pretty well. The oil tank stuff I haven't really tackled yet because 1) I'm lazy; and 2) I'm not really sure where the leaks come from.
Rob
Rob, I have had 2 10 series saws that had oil leaks. I fixed both by cleaning the disk and seat on the manual oiler. I think Ron stopped one by adjusting the auto oiler down just a little. My 610 is leaking oil right now but I have not tackled it yet to see what is going on. It did not leak at first but I put a 24 inch bar on it and turned up the oiler and sense it has leaked.
Mark, I use the teflon tape but seams like the last two batches of fuel lines I got off ebay will shrink and harden in about 6 months to where the line will split and the teflon tape is now too small to hold in place and also after the line gets hard the vibration from the saw will vibrate it out of the hole because it had shrunk. I took one of my old 10-10 and used a piece of fuel line that was tight fitting in the hole in the fuel tank and used another fuel line that fit tight inside of that fuel line put it all together, glued it all together and in place with Yamaha Bond 4 and made that work. Unfortunately I don't use that saw much so it has stayed empty of fuel and I really don't know how it will work but I am thinking on trying it on the other saws. I have nothing to loose at this point because the fuel lines I am getting from ebay are junk. I thought at the first fuel lines I went through hardened because of ethical fuel but I have gotten very picky on the fuel I use and I am going to get a test kit and start testing the fuel I am getting for ethanol. So it seams like any fuel will turn these fuel lines hard and when they get hard and you turn your saw on it's side to cut and you run out of fuel.
Brian
Mark, I use the teflon tape but seams like the last two batches of fuel lines I got off ebay will shrink and harden in about 6 months to where the line will split and the teflon tape is now too small to hold in place and also after the line gets hard the vibration from the saw will vibrate it out of the hole because it had shrunk. I took one of my old 10-10 and used a piece of fuel line that was tight fitting in the hole in the fuel tank and used another fuel line that fit tight inside of that fuel line put it all together, glued it all together and in place with Yamaha Bond 4 and made that work. Unfortunately I don't use that saw much so it has stayed empty of fuel and I really don't know how it will work but I am thinking on trying it on the other saws. I have nothing to loose at this point because the fuel lines I am getting from ebay are junk. I thought at the first fuel lines I went through hardened because of ethical fuel but I have gotten very picky on the fuel I use and I am going to get a test kit and start testing the fuel I am getting for ethanol. So it seams like any fuel will turn these fuel lines hard and when they get hard and you turn your saw on it's side to cut and you run out of fuel.
Brian
If you are using yellow fuel line that isn't actual Tygon tubing manufactured by Saint-Gobain, it isn't 'tygon' as many people think. Just because it's yellow doesn't make it Tygon and there is no comparison between real Tygon line and the cheap yellow stuff. F-4040-A is the typical Tygon product for small engine fuel lines. They also make an LP line which has an inner membrane designed for low permeation applications that has been known to separate from the tubing itself and essentially clog the line. I've run into it a couple of times and would recommend staying away from it.
If the Teflon tape trick won't fix your older OEM line leak at the tank and you want to stay away from re-popped fuel lines, a grommet and some Tygon F-4040-A is probably one of the better solutions out there for both stopping the leak and lasting.
I know I harp on this every time the subject comes up, but more folks than not believe the inexpensive yellow fuel line on eBay and elsewhere is Tygon when it is just low quality plastic tubing that usually shrinks and hardens very quickly even with e-free fuels.
If the Teflon tape trick won't fix your older OEM line leak at the tank and you want to stay away from re-popped fuel lines, a grommet and some Tygon F-4040-A is probably one of the better solutions out there for both stopping the leak and lasting.
I know I harp on this every time the subject comes up, but more folks than not believe the inexpensive yellow fuel line on eBay and elsewhere is Tygon when it is just low quality plastic tubing that usually shrinks and hardens very quickly even with e-free fuels.
An additional note: The Stihl R3 and R5 tubing is also an excellent choice for fuel line replacement. It only comes in certain diameters and would definitely require a grommet for most Mac applications. The grommets for some of their trimmers and certain saws may work but I haven't tried to fit one up yet. May have some time later to give it a shot.
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
With your reference to cleaning the manual oiler, are you referring to fixing leaks while the saw is running or while sitting? My saws leak bar oil out while sitting on the shelf.
As for cleaning the manual oiler, I assume you mean the plunger thing that the rod from the oiler button pushes into? Don't you have to disassemble the saw pretty far to get to that? I'm just trying to remember how much stuff I had to put back together on my PM800 build and when I was last able to access that part...
Rob
