McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian Thacker]

Poge, somewhere along the line I replaced a fuel line on a Stihl that looked very similar to a McCulloch fuel line. That was several years ago and to the life of me I cannot remember what model saw I was working on. That has been in the back of my mind for a while now but I don't know how to go about finding it again. Then I also think if this was the case smarter persons than me would have found this by now.

I purchased some of that cheap Tygon line once. After opening the package I threw it into the garbage. I knew it would never last. I own a small motorcycle shop and used to be all I would use was silicone fuel line because it usually is unaffected by alcohol until about a year ago when this new fuel started eating it up. I really liked the silicone fuel line because it was very flexible. And in this application the flexibility would be a good thing allowing the line to float around the tank and stay with the fuel when turned on it's side. But seams like as of late the silicone fuel lines either harden or dissolve in the fuel or I am getting poor quality silicone fuel line. The supplier I used to get it from went out of business and I was left to find another supplier. Not sure my new supplier is selling me good quality line.

I am going to try my idea of using a fuel line in a fuel line. I have what I think is real Tygon fuel line, I will find out when it's in fuel for a while. I might cut a piece and put it in some fuel for a few days and see what it does. I will take a few pictures as I go to show everyone what I am doing. Maybe that is how we need to go when replacing fuel lines. I know the stuff I got before this was defiantly not Tygon because I replaced the fuel lines on my weed eater and they turned to mush and clogged my carb all up. It said it was Tygon but it wasn't.

Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

With your reference to cleaning the manual oiler, are you referring to fixing leaks while the saw is running or while sitting? My saws leak bar oil out while sitting on the shelf.

As for cleaning the manual oiler, I assume you mean the plunger thing that the rod from the oiler button pushes into? Don't you have to disassemble the saw pretty far to get to that? I'm just trying to remember how much stuff I had to put back together on my PM800 build and when I was last able to access that part...

Rob

I usually clean both. But what I was referring to was the manual oiler that the rod goes into. The disk which I have seen be both metal and fiber I clean really good and where it lays on the case of the saw I have seen the paint get ruff and cause it not to seal very well and yes it is a pain to get to. You must take the fuel tank off the saw. On the auto oiler their is a ball check valve if you take the adjuster screw out a spring and ball will come out. I clean them well and have fixed problems with my oilers. While in there make sure you clean the passage ways out where the oil flows. Back in the 70s and even today I see people use just old oil that they drain out of their cars or lawnmowers and use it as bar oil. This stuff has everything in the world in it and will cause that little ball to either stick or have funk on it and not seal very well. I have gotten several old saws that have used oil in the oiler. Was very common back in the day but clogged many oil systems or caused them to not function well because of the contaminates in it.

Brian

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I am going to try my idea of using a fuel line in a fuel line.

I just tried the Stihl grommet in a 10-10 tank and it was a no go. And you're right. Someone else probably would have figured it out by now anyway if it actually worked. Gotta be a grommet out there somewhere that will work, but the search could be long and lonely trying to find one, not to mention one that would stand up to the ethanol. Be interested to find out how your line in-a-line approach seals and holds up.

 

[ML12]

I just tried the Stihl grommet in a 10-10 tank and it was a no go. And you're right. Someone else probably would have figured it out by now anyway if it actually worked. Gotta be a grommet out there somewhere that will work, but the search could be long and lonely trying to find one, not to mention one that would stand up to the ethanol. Be interested to find out how your line in-a-line approach seals and holds up.

I've done the "Line in a line" trick and then used some motoseal before and its worked ok, its usually a bit of a pain to fish the smaller line through because of the tight fit but so far (fingers crossed) it seems to be working. Make sure its a real tight fit though, otherwise it will just vibrate out.

 

[2broke2ride]

I know the chainsaw guy on YouTube had a rubber grommet/tygon combination he was selling as a kit for the 10 series. Maybe contact him and see if he still has them available.

Here ya go guys. Not sure if he still has them available or not but it's an idea.

 

[Brian Thacker]

He no longer offers it.

Brian

 

[Scott Sonntag]

Hello everyone, hope y'all are all doing alright, sorry it's been awhile. My son was born in late June and my work schedule has changed so my time to finish my 10-10 project has dwindled to very little. I did have time this evening to work on a few things and a question has arisen. I put fuel in the tank to check if I had successfully sealed the gas tank with gasket maker. It all checked out until I turned the saw on it's side and fuel leaked from the gas cap. I pulled the old cork gasket out of the cap and installed the new cork gasket that came in a complete gasket kit for the saw. I turned the saw on it's side again and fuel still leak from the cap. Does the cork need time to swell? If anyone has any ideas or advice I would appreciate it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I would guess the gasket is not completely seated in the top of the cap (it must seat flat at the top of the threads) or the leak is coming from a deteriorated (or missing) cap vent. There could also be a small unnoticed chip right at the tank opening that isn't being sealed by the gasket. A small drop of JB could fix that.

He no longer offers it.

Wonder if he stopped selling his special bottles of soapy water for finding air leaks too? That grommet has to be available somewhere but I doubt he'd reveal his source. May be worth contacting him to find out, tho. Who knows? Could be more common than we think. Ol' Rich did come up with some pretty innovative solutions from time to time.

 

[heimannm]

Scott - if the paint is chipped on the filler neck you can try to build it up as Poge described, or sand the top smooth to allow the gasket to seal properly. My guess is the duckbill / vent is not sealing. Post a photo of the inside view of the fuel cap, the ones with the brass insert are easy to fix, others not so much.

I don't remember if it is a separate thread, or if the information is contained within another thread but there is some good information on the 10 Series fuel caps posted already...if you can find it.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hey guys a good yarn about the fuel lines. I got it this way but my pm700 has a brass fitting glued in the tank wall and some regular old clear fuel line that fits threw the fitting very snuggly im not sure if there is an oring inside it or not but it doesn't leak at all and I did expect it would but so far the "moari job" seems to work.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I forgot to mention that 700 went up in flames a real goody due to a leak from the tank gaskit inside the airbox It was dribling out the choke nob and wooff. singed hairs soiled gruts and a hard lesson latter I wont run a leaky saw again.

 

[heimannm]

There was a McCulloch retrofit for the 10s that consisted of an aluminum bushing that went through the tank with some sealer, new smaller fuel line, and a replacement carburetor with a smaller barbell for the fuel line. I have one or two kits in the attic.

The later models like the PM8200 came with the smaller line.

Mark

 

[happysaws]

There was a McCulloch retrofit for the 10s that consisted of an aluminum bushing that went through the tank with some sealer, new smaller fuel line, and a replacement carburetor with a smaller barbell for the fuel line. I have one or two kits in the attic.

The later models like the PM8200 came with the smaller line.

Mark

Are you going to be at Badger Steam and Gas Engine show this year?

 

[heimannm]

On my way now. Bring a drill bit...

Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Hello everyone, hope y'all are all doing alright, sorry it's been awhile. My son was born in late June and my work schedule has changed so my time to finish my 10-10 project has dwindled to very little. I did have time this evening to work on a few things and a question has arisen. I put fuel in the tank to check if I had successfully sealed the gas tank with gasket maker. It all checked out until I turned the saw on it's side and fuel leaked from the gas cap. I pulled the old cork gasket out of the cap and installed the new cork gasket that came in a complete gasket kit for the saw. I turned the saw on it's side again and fuel still leak from the cap. Does the cork need time to swell? If anyone has any ideas or advice I would appreciate it.

I've found that it takes some time for the new cork gasket to 'seat' properly in the cap. This may also involve swelling a bit. I'd suggest just letting the saw sit with the cap on for a few days and you'll probably have no more leak eventually.

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

There was a McCulloch retrofit for the 10s that consisted of an aluminum bushing that went through the tank with some sealer, new smaller fuel line, and a replacement carburetor with a smaller barbell for the fuel line. I have one or two kits in the attic.

The later models like the PM8200 came with the smaller line.

Mark

Just how big is your attic?? You seem to have extra everything up there!

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

I forgot to mention that 700 went up in flames a real goody due to a leak from the tank gaskit inside the airbox It was dribling out the choke nob and wooff. singed hairs soiled gruts and a hard lesson latter I wont run a leaky saw again.

I've always worried about that with some of the leaky saws I've messed with. Fortunately I've had success sealing up the lines and eliminating the leaks. But gasoline, heat and sparks don't take too long to combine so it's best not to push the luck.

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

Question about a PM 555. That's the one I mentioned using a few days back to cut down some small elm trees. The day after I cut them down I took the saw out to limb them because I had a big brush pile burning and wanted to dispose of the branches. The saw didn't want to stay running the second time. Would rev fine but wanted to die out when the throttle was released. It was hotter that second day and I was running it near the burn pile which made things even hotter. Was the saw acting like that because of the higher ambient temps or is there something else I should look into?

Rob

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Question about a PM 555. That's the one I mentioned using a few days back to cut down some small elm trees. The day after I cut them down I took the saw out to limb them because I had a big brush pile burning and wanted to dispose of the branches. The saw didn't want to stay running the second time. Would rev fine but wanted to die out when the throttle was released. It was hotter that second day and I was running it near the burn pile which made things even hotter. Was the saw acting like that because of the higher ambient temps or is there something else I should look into?

Rob

Id just crank the idle up a tad as long as theres no lean condition going on. When ever I get a saw out for work it seems to run slightly different in nz 1 day mite be hot still and sunny the next can be a brutal Antarctic southerly and yup the saw mite run differently so allways have the screw driver on hand. Also the carb could do with a rebuild.

There was a McCulloch retrofit for the 10s that consisted of an aluminum bushing that went through the tank with some sealer, new smaller fuel line, and a replacement carburetor with a smaller barbell for the fuel line. I have one or two kits in the attic.

The later models like the PM8200 came with the smaller line.

Mark

Now that I went out and had another look it is alloy and it has a completely different barb on the carb than the 10-10.

 

[emf123]

Baraboo Steam and Fogging Services
Courtesy of Mark Heimann