McCulloch Chain Saws

[fossil]

Just a rough idea, but how much Red Kote is poured into a tank to seal it and can you pour the excess out into a separate bottle and use it for the next saw?
Looking for a number like half a tank full or?

 

[heimannm]

While the instructions say not to put extra back in the can, I have done it a few times when I really went overboard with the amount in the tank. Normally I try to put in just enough to coat the inside and then keep rotating the tank every 5-10 minutes until it all starts to set up and stops moving. If you have a spot that is particularly bad, make your final resting position so that any leftover liquid with settle in that spot. That will add to the curing time, but will help insure you have a good layer of protection where it's needed most.

I think I have done as many at 8 to 10 10 Series tanks with one quart. Over time it will start to thicken in the can so you have to plan for that; do make sure you clean the groove in the can before you try to replace the lid to insure a good tight closure. I like to turn the can upside down for a few seconds after replacing the lid to create a good seal then store it right side up to minimize the mess next time you use it. I have used parts of a quart and resealed the can over several months without any issues other than it starts to thicken. I am sure that at least one partial quart was around for more than a year and still worked just fine.

Your first time you will almost certainly put too much in the tank, don't worry about pouring the extra back into the can before re-sealing it but work fast as it does begin to cure pretty quickly.

Mark

 

[fossil]

While the instructions say not to put extra back in the can, I have done it a few times when I really went overboard with the amount in the tank. Normally I try to put in just enough to coat the inside and then keep rotating the tank every 5-10 minutes until it all starts to set up and stops moving. If you have a spot that is particularly bad, make your final resting position so that any leftover liquid with settle in that spot. That will add to the curing time, but will help insure you have a good layer of protection where it's needed most.

I think I have done as many at 8 to 10 10 Series tanks with one quart. Over time it will start to thicken in the can so you have to plan for that; do make sure you clean the groove in the can before you try to replace the lid to insure a good tight closure. I like to turn the can upside down for a few seconds after replacing the lid to create a good seal then store it right side up to minimize the mess next time you use it. I have used parts of a quart and resealed the can over several months without any issues other than it starts to thicken. I am sure that at least one partial quart was around for more than a year and still worked just fine.

Your first time you will almost certainly put too much in the tank, don't worry about pouring the extra back into the can before re-sealing it but work fast as it does begin to cure pretty quickly.

Mark

Thanks Mark.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I have used Red Kote for many years on motorcycle tanks, lawn mower tanks, chainsaw tanks, you name it and it works good. I pour it in and pour the excess back into the can without and adverse effects. Like Mark said it will thicken after a while but I have still used it after it has thicken with good results. I will many times pour as much as I can get out of the tank and then turn the tank up side down over a trash can and let it drain over night. Sometimes I want it to settle in the bottom of the tank if that is the bad part of the tank as is often in the motorcycle restoration world. Then I will leave it right side up. Also custom tanks that I have built I line them with Red Kote.

Brian

 

[fossil]

Thanks Brian

 

[2broke2ride]

Am finally starting to feel human again so got out to the garage to fiddle with saws a little. The paint on the used bar I got was in real rough shape so I went ahead and sanded it off to bare steel. I think it looks more "authentic" like this anyway. Spun a chain for it and switched the sprocket to 3/8. Mark, you where right at 110dl although it was a bit of a tight fit with the 8 pin rim I had for this project. Curious how this saw will do pulling full comp with an 8 pin on a bar this long. Not that I plan to use it often or expect to need a bar that long lol. Sure does look cool though.

 

[heimannm]

Kevin (2 broke 2 ride) inspired me with the return of the Mac carburetor off his 440 so I did a little fooling around, removed the large welch plug, cleaned the screen underneath, replaced the metering needle, and it seems to work well on one of my 440 saws. I could never get this one to run right before with the Mac that was on it so in essence he has given me another saw...

It would not oil at all however, so I decided to look into that today. I did not take any photos, but the issues were the same as the 1st 440 that I worked on with the manual oiler piston being stuck, and the check valve in the automatic pumps stuck. In addition, the oil tank had a terrible layer of sludge on the bottom, no way it was ever going to work. I removed the front wrap handle, then removed the oil tank (only 4 bolts for the tank). The gasket was damaged removing the tank but no problem there, just get a new one from the attic. I had to take the automatic pump apart about a dozen times and ended up replacing the check ball, again no issue since I have a supply of 3/32" balls on hand. Put it back together and with a little priming through the plug over the pick up tube we had chain oiler action again. It was a shame to have to dig into this one as it was in very good condition and had never been worked on before. Even the paint is in very good condition. If memory serves me, I got this one from Wigglesworth when I attended the WKY GTG a few years back.

I did make one mistake (that I'll talk about...), when testing the oiler after putting it back together I started by pumping the wrong button. I didn't understand why I wasn't getting any bar oil when I saw and smelled the fuel mix coming from the muffler...

I will try to put this one in some wood next week and see if it is really ready to go.

The power head is certainly heavy enough to hold up a long bar like that...I only have a 24" on this one but that is about all I would care to lug about anyway.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Man, I wish I had access to a parts stash like that right on hand for these saws. Every time I need a part it's a bit more of an ordeal lol. Although knowing guys like you Mark and others from these pages has helped out immensely and I thank all of you for that.

 

[2broke2ride]

On to another topic, I was just doing a leisurely cruise through Ebay always on the lookout for the next project. People have totally lost there minds. I will give one example. A generic, run of the mill, albeit clean, black top 10-10 automatic. The price you ask? Only $450 buy it now plus $33 shipping!!!!!!!!! The last one I bought in similar shape I paid $10 for!!!!!!
Not sure where the heck I'm gonna go for future projects, but Ebay is definitely out at this point unless people get back to reality.
Rant over lol

 

[Brian Thacker]

On to another topic, I was just doing a leisurely cruise through Ebay always on the lookout for the next project. People have totally lost there minds. I will give one example. A generic, run of the mill, albeit clean, black top 10-10 automatic. The price you ask? Only $450 buy it now plus $33 shipping!!!!!!!!! The last one I bought in similar shape I paid $10 for!!!!!!
Not sure where the heck I'm gonna go for future projects, but Ebay is definitely out at this point unless people get back to reality.
Rant over lol

Amen. Some people thank they have gold. I had a guy come into my shop Wednesday or Thursday with an old 10-10 that looked like he had drug it behind a truck for 20 miles. Someone had told him that I collect old McCullochs. It was in really bad shape. He told me that he only wanted 200.00 for the saw. I told him I would not give him 20.00. He kept thinking I was just trying to low ball him. He just kept on and I told him I was not interested in a pile of junk. Only thing it was fit for was the dump. Muffler was missing, the starter was broken, it had been stored on concrete and was ate up on the bottom to the point the starter housing was ate all the way through. Man he just kept on telling me that because it was old it was worth a lot of money. Needless to say I did not buy his saw. He was very badly disappointed. He thought he had drug money for a few days.

Brian

 

[2broke2ride]

Anyone have a source for the big rubber grip starter handles on these large frame saws? Or something very similar? I have two that need replaced and I like to keep them looking as original as possible.

 

[fossil]

Did you try Bob Johnson?

 

[2broke2ride]

Took the 440 out and made a couple cuts with the new b&c setup. I noodled a 20" long by 18" diameter piece of maple and made a few regular crosscuts in the same log. It pulled it just fine although the bar obviously was far from buried lol.

 

[fossil]

Kevin (2 broke 2 ride) inspired me with the return of the Mac carburetor off his 440 so I did a little fooling around, removed the large welch plug, cleaned the screen underneath, replaced the metering needle, and it seems to work well on one of my 440 saws. I could never get this one to run right before with the Mac that was on it so in essence he has given me another saw...

It would not oil at all however, so I decided to look into that today. I did not take any photos, but the issues were the same as the 1st 440 that I worked on with the manual oiler piston being stuck, and the check valve in the automatic pumps stuck. In addition, the oil tank had a terrible layer of sludge on the bottom, no way it was ever going to work. I removed the front wrap handle, then removed the oil tank (only 4 bolts for the tank). The gasket was damaged removing the tank but no problem there, just get a new one from the attic. I had to take the automatic pump apart about a dozen times and ended up replacing the check ball, again no issue since I have a supply of 3/32" balls on hand. Put it back together and with a little priming through the plug over the pick up tube we had chain oiler action again. It was a shame to have to dig into this one as it was in very good condition and had never been worked on before. Even the paint is in very good condition. If memory serves me, I got this one from Wigglesworth when I attended the WKY GTG a few years back.

I did make one mistake (that I'll talk about...), when testing the oiler after putting it back together I started by pumping the wrong button. I didn't understand why I wasn't getting any bar oil when I saw and smelled the fuel mix coming from the muffler...

I will try to put this one in some wood next week and see if it is really ready to go.

The power head is certainly heavy enough to hold up a long bar like that...I only have a 24" on this one but that is about all I would care to lug about anyway.

Mark

Thanks for sharing the oiler story. It lets me know there's someone else that does those things.

 

[BigBlue]

Got a chance to take the 'new' 555 out for a little action yesterday. Had three small/medium elm trees that were dying that needed removal. I bought it last fall for $90 as a 'good runner'. I started and ran it briefly when I bought it and maybe ran through a slice off of a log I have out back but hadn't put it to real use otherwise. I used it to cut down these three elms and it ran real nice. Sounds great and seems to have decent power. Chain was even fairly sharp. Guess it was a nice find. I didn't have time to cut the trees up yet, I just dragged them out back by the brush pile. I'll get them limbed and cut into logs in the next day or two and give the 555 more exercise. With my collection of running saws I need to spread the fun around through them as I get projects to do...

ETA: And hey! this is one of the only Macs I have that doesn't leak the oil out of the tank!!

Rob

 

[rwoods]

Should have waited and shot a video. Brian had his fresh rebuilt SP125C with 36” bar down at the wood lot today to buck some good size rounds. Maybe he’ll bring it tomorrow to buck a maple snag after I put it on the ground with an 800.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

No photos today but I finally got around to looking at the 170 welder I picked up (last year?). Good spark, 190+ PSI compression, why not try a little fuel? It is a runner, I may try connecting the leads tomorrow and striking an arc.

Mark

 

[rarefish383]

You guys. I was down to 10 saws in Febuary. All Homelites except I big Echo. Now I'm back up to over 20 with a couple of nice Macs. A 550 and a Mac 15. Today my best friend's son sent me a message. A 70's Mac 6. Was cleaned and put up 20 years ago. Cylinder was oiled when put away. Ten bucks. I told him grab it, I'll give you 20. Alas, it was sold. Hope one of you guys got it. Manassas VA. Red and Yellow seem to go together on the shelf.

 

[2broke2ride]

So revisiting the 7-10 tonight. Pressure testing and my first leak source is the DSP valve. This is the plunger style that works off the kill switch. Anyone know how to fix it? Looks like she will be coming back apart. @heimannm

 

[rwoods]

So revisiting the 7-10 tonight. Pressure testing and my first leak source is the DSP valve. This is the plunger style that works off the kill switch. Anyone know how to fix it? Looks like she will be coming back apart. @heimannm

A leaking DSP valve shouldn't be a longevity problem - might have a slight performance difference. I have run an 800 or two with loose valves and once or twice after a valve had fallen out completely.

Brian and I did a little cutting today.

Maple snag #1 felled with 800:


Dead Oak felled with 800:


Borrowed Brian's fresh SP125C to fall Maple snag #2 (Nice runner BTW):


Brian bucking Maple snag #1 with his 800:


Poison oak and poison ivy covered almost everything. Managed to get a little on my face - didn't think to wash my face with Dawn when I was washing my hands and arms. Live and learn.

Ron

PS to Brian - little saw is okay just like you predicted.