McCulloch Chain Saws

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

No, I put it on the shelf for the time being. I find when I'm getting frustrated at one it's best to just let it be for a little while. I have to get a better setup for pressure/vac testing. I'm fairly certain that its either an air leak or the strangest ignition problem I've ever seen.

Yea that tester poge mentioned sounds like the ducks nuts. Id love to find a 7-10 but around here is highly unlikely so the 700 will have to do. Id really like to see the differences in porting between the two. It seems odd that they would de tune the same basic saw

 

[2broke2ride]

Started the teardown and cleaning of the 1-86 today. This is one of the dirtiest ones of messed with, second probably to my 380 which was a basket case. Trying to decide if I want to do a repaint or leave it in its worn condition.
I was also pleasantly surprised to find a thin ring piston hiding in there!!

Not looking forward to cleaning between those cooling fins

 

[Hoggwood]

Went for a little drive this morning and picked up this "free to a good home" listing. I told them I was their guy. Came with the carrying case. Pretty clean after I wiped the funk off of it.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Went for a little drive this morning and picked up this "free to a good home" listing. I told them I was their guy. Came with the carrying case. Pretty clean after I wiped the funk off of it

That is imaculate what a score I hope you payed somthing for it

 

[rocketnorton]

missed a freebie banana handle few days ago here.

 

[2broke2ride]

More teardown and cleaning, got the gear case disassembled and removed. Found the idler gear spider broken and the gear beat the crap out of the case flopping around. I have a friend that is a pro welder, gonna see if he can do something for it. Also has a wallowed out bolt hole that bolts the gear case to the engine. Gonna either need a helicoil or an oversize bolt.

What does one use for gear lube in these? I was thinking hyoid gear oil but it had what looked more like grease in it.

 

[heimannm]

Today's projects. The Mini Mac 1 is as original as I could make it including the hard nose Mac 6 bar and the button on the manual oiler. The Mini Mac 1 had a removable starter to distinguish it from the original Mini Mac 6. They are much easier to work on with the removable starter as the engine slips in and out of the housing without complications. Chain brakes had not been incorporated yet.







The black Mini is a Johnny Cash "one piece at a time" put together from parts. This is one I can use and would never feel bad about damage, just add some different parts as needed to keep it going.





I would like to find a black Pro Mac style clutch cover for this one that covers the muffler and would take advantage of the wrap around brake handle since this one will spend some time in the bucket when needed. The black shorty on there now was included on the late Pro Mac 6 models as well as the Mini Mac 25, 30, and 35 models, sometime with a yellow flag.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

Cory - you will like that PM6, nice balance, good power, very practical saw.

Kevin - I expect I can find a good idler bracket for you if welding does not prove successful. The book calls for 80/90 gear lube.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Thanks Mark.

 

[2broke2ride]

Bad news, after more cleaning and inspection, I found the gear case to be cracked through around the bolt hole where that idler bracket was broken. I guess now I know why they had the case packed with grease. [emoji853]
Anyone have a complete gear case or case half they could part with?

 

[67L36Driver]

I know nothing about Mac gear drives.

Can one change that to a direct drive saw? [emoji848]

 

[heimannm]

It is possible to change a gear to direct or vice versa but requires a lot of other changes as well. Better in this case to find a gearbox and keep it as is.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

It is possible to change a gear to direct or vice versa but requires a lot of other changes as well. Better in this case to find a gearbox and keep it as is.

Mark

Anything you might have Mark?

 

[heimannm]

Kevin - PM sent

Mark

 

[Scott Sonntag]

Alright fellas, I'm getting really close to firing the 10-10 and yet another question arises. I pulled the spark plug and was checking for spark...all was good until I took the kill switch to the off position to check it and low and behold I am still getting a spark. Does anyone mind explaining how the kill switch works on the 10-10? From what I can see, it looks like the switch grounds the ignition assembly which kills the spark. I could be totally wrong though. However if this is the case, I'm thinking I need to sand down to bare metal where the switch plate engages the saw body. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?

Scott

 

[heimannm]

Sometimes if you push the switch all the way the brass contact on the switch actually moves beyond the contact point on the handle so the saw continues to run. In general the switch will ground out even through the paint so it is not necessary to sand it off. You may find it beneficial to bend the brass contact slightly to insure it touches the handle in the off position, and if you completely disassembled the switch make sure you have the base portion in the proper orientation to insure the brass contact can in fact touch the handle to complete the circuit. If you have it turned around the base will lift the contact when you slide it to the off position.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Anyone here try those Tilly HL Chinese clones made for the Stihl 070 and 090 in a Mac? There are a couple guys in the Mac facebook group that are using them and reporting good results.
A couple drawbacks are the linkage needs reworking but seems doable and they do not have the low profile fuel inlet that seems needed on a lot of Macs.
I'm not too keen to use them but it has me curious.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Good Morning fellas

 

[ML12]

Anyone here try those Tilly HL Chinese clones made for the Stihl 070 and 090 in a Mac? There are a couple guys in the Mac facebook group that are using them and reporting good results.
A couple drawbacks are the linkage needs reworking but seems doable and they do not have the low profile fuel inlet that seems needed on a lot of Macs.
I'm not too keen to use them but it has me curious.

I'm running 3 of them in various large frame mac's at the moment (S44A, 790, 1-72). They work ok, but I've had a couple basically fail to operate properly at all out of the box, and the guys on Facebook are correct the low profile fuel inlet is required for modern large frame saws, early top tank ones (D44 etc) its not required.

I bend the linkage up using stainless tig rod, its quite hard and holds its shape well. You may also have to swap around carb shafts and put return springs in to get everything to work right.

My experience has been good overall, and the large carb bore seems to make them run good too.

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,I recently acquired a nice 7-10A off Feebau.It runs good,but I've got two issues -1.) The decomp valve pops back in after only one pull,I have to reset it every time I need to make another pull.I don't think this isd normal,2.) The saw isn't oiling at all.Supposedly the saw sat in a shop for a number of yrs.I was thinking of draining out the oil & put jusdt straight kerosene in it & shake,rattle,& roll for a fewe mins.,then drain that out & put some more fresh kerosene in it & fire up the saw to see if it pumps kerosene.If this fails to unclog any plugged passages,what is my next step, how difficult is it to replace the oil pump if need be?
Ed