It's a small screw that seamingly does nothing. It was how they drilled the hole in the first place.
Make sure your piston is down out of the way!!!
Brian
Make sure your piston is down out of the way!!!
Brian
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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It still seems a lil risky to me as is in popping some carbon in the chamber
Carbon in the chamber as little as you will get using a drill bit and turning it so the carbon is taken out of the cylinder and the very small bit that goes into the cylinder will not hurt it or you can take an air nozzle and stick down threw the sparkplug hole and blow it out.
Brian
Brian
Rob - If you want to make sure the passage is clear you will have to remove the compression release (normally a 3/8" drive 7/16" socket will work) then remove the 8-32 socket head cap screw below the compression release. I think you can use a 5/32" drill bit but just twist it by hand, don't chuck it in a drill and run it in. You will need to take measures to clean all of the carbon out of the cylinder once you get the passage open, you might get by using compressed air to blow out the cylinder. You can see the socket head cap screw above the muffler on the SP70 below.
Mark
Mark
From the owner's manual:
Ron
Ron
Titan 7, before and after.
Before:
During:
I had to replace the o-ring in the oil pump, the intake boot, and the grommets for the bottom of the wrap handle anti-vibe. The o-ring was leaking causing a bit of smoky exhaust.
The finished product:
Mark
Before:
During:
I had to replace the o-ring in the oil pump, the intake boot, and the grommets for the bottom of the wrap handle anti-vibe. The o-ring was leaking causing a bit of smoky exhaust.
The finished product:
Mark
Awesome guys
Hi Folks,
Picked up a couple of Mac tonight. What I believe is a 610 (brick) and a mystery vintage Mac. Please help me identify, perhaps a 55 Missing clutch cover/recoil
The 610 doesn't appear to have a choke can this be correct? It is missing parts from the chain break seems to have v good comp and does have a decomp valve.
Picked up a couple of Mac tonight. What I believe is a 610 (brick) and a mystery vintage Mac. Please help me identify, perhaps a 55 Missing clutch cover/recoil
The 610 doesn't appear to have a choke can this be correct? It is missing parts from the chain break seems to have v good comp and does have a decomp valve.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
It is old, has the extremal points box.
The 55 is a gear drive saw. I have one. With a round muffler. You have a direct drive saw. Ill guess a model 44. Turn it over and look at the bottom. It may be stamped. Youll see a model number on the left of the " T ", and perhaps a serial number on the right side.
The 610 turns out to be a 650. The Walbro HDB carb is off and there is no choke mechanism although there is a hole in the airbox that would appear to be for a choke rod.
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
Sweet info! Thanks. Will try it.
And thanks rwoods and Mark for the additional info. Love this place!
Rob
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A question for those of you who restore/repaint these saws. Do you fully assemble the saw then paint the whole saw the way I think they did from the factory or do you paint individual parts? If you paint individual parts, what do you do to paint the exposed screw heads after?
The last one I did I painted individual parts but I replaced all the hardware with new so I just left all the screw heads shiny. Want to reuse the original hardware on this one so I want to touch up the paint on them.
Thanks guys.
The last one I did I painted individual parts but I replaced all the hardware with new so I just left all the screw heads shiny. Want to reuse the original hardware on this one so I want to touch up the paint on them.
Thanks guys.
Fresh pics in the sun. Removed that weird cover over the clutch I'm sure that was not stock. Pretty sure this is one of the 44's, whether 72, 80 or 87cc still to determine.. I think there may still be some non-OEM bits of metal plate still attached. Looks like a farmer repair. Does anyone have an extra recoil/clutch cover?
Kevin- I've done it both ways but painting the assembled saw is certainly easier and eliminates the fastener issues. You certainly could pre-paint some of the components that will be hard to paint with the saw assembled but the last coat assembled will look more like a factory finish.
Lee - that poor thing has had a hard life. You might be doing it a favor by putting it out of its misery...
Mark
Lee - that poor thing has had a hard life. You might be doing it a favor by putting it out of its misery...
Mark
Want it for parts, not locked up! I've only got $15 CDN into it
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Should I reseal these welch? Plugs in the block prior to paint and reassembly? Maybe a coat of JB weld or similar is in order. The center one seems raised, although not loose, makes me a bit nervous.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I paint each piece separately, and mask anything that doesn't want to be painted. That way every exposed surface is protected from corrosion and the finish is uniform. For the screw heads I use a soft wire wheel to clean up the heads and threads. If I am concerned about the fasteners rusting (due to the zinc plating being long gone) I will use clear nail polish on the heads once they are installed.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Maybe to use a punch in the holes to expand the plugs slightly to get them to seat? I've never had to take the plugs out before on any of mine. its definitely not factory.
