Make sure the kill wire is actually connected at the coil.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Make sure the kill wire is actually connected at the coil.
That could probably be welded if you could find the right guy to go it. @rocketnorton or @srcarr52 may be able to shed more light on the matter.
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My welder buddy feels he can tig it if I buy the rod for him. Seems like Mark is gonna be able to help me out with parts though so gonna explore that option first.
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Good to know, I wasnt sure how well they would run with the drastically bigger venturi.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I've had good luck with the Blue Demon brand filler ERAZ61A for magnesium.
Ed - the springs on the sides of those pop up valves get worn/weak and don't hold as they should. Your options are to replace it with a new or good used one or just remember to reset it with each pull. On a good 7-10 you will be reminded if you don't reset it as needed...
For the oiler, you can try some kerosene or ATF, or just remove the cover from the oil tank and take out the automatic pump. The manual pump is harder to access since it is under the fuel tank. You may have some luck dripping some light oil or ATF down the pick up tube while pumping the manual oiler; that will sometimes get things going again.
First step though should be to remove the bar and make sure the problem is actually the oiler and not just some blockage at the bar itself.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/
Mark
For the oiler, you can try some kerosene or ATF, or just remove the cover from the oil tank and take out the automatic pump. The manual pump is harder to access since it is under the fuel tank. You may have some luck dripping some light oil or ATF down the pick up tube while pumping the manual oiler; that will sometimes get things going again.
First step though should be to remove the bar and make sure the problem is actually the oiler and not just some blockage at the bar itself.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/
Mark
Good morning all. I am looking for some help. I just got a Mcculloch CP125!! Been looking for several years. Finally got one, anyway it is in need of a clutch cover to operate safely. Only one bar nut will tighten up due to damage. Its missing quite a bit of magnesium on one of the bar nuts. The rear one to be specific. Only a small portion of the bar nut has anything to touch actually. And its cracked up to the front stud. Would any body have a cp/sp 125 clutcb cover theyd be willing to get rid of so i can operate this monster safely? Paint condition is no issue. I can swap adjuster and mudflap, just looking for a complete cover. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, vinny
if his guy is good w/alum, he should be able to. thought bout offerin to, but shippin b&f might kill it. mag rod was $92./lb, last i looked.
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
How does one clean or renovate a compression release valve on a 10-series style saw? I have a PM700 that has one that doesn't seem to do anything. It stays in whatever position you put it in (i.e. if you press it in it won't return 'out' after the saw starts). Saw runs fine so I don't think it is staying open. No difference in pulling it over whether the valve is in or out.
Is this just a matter of finding a socket that will allow me to remove it and then clean it good, or are there things that can go back in one? Are replacements available readily?
Thanks,
Rob
Is this just a matter of finding a socket that will allow me to remove it and then clean it good, or are there things that can go back in one? Are replacements available readily?
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks jethro, nice to hear from you again. I am hopeful a parts hoarder will be willing to spare me one.
My 700 has same issue and they recon it will be plugged with carbon. They also said you should need to use the valve so if you dont it probly needs a refresh. I dont need it eather so going to throw rings at it.
Hey there mate yea you keeping well? Someone will have one for sure. Do parts for those beasts come up on the bay very often? I haven't had the nice feeling of looking for parts for a 125 haha.
Yes im doing well thankyou. Kids are back in school..
. Im still hunting saws and parts. Body parts for that model arent often. A few here and there but when they do be ready to pay. Its nice looking for parts i must say i can hardly wait to try it out. Take care.....
. Im still hunting saws and parts. Body parts for that model arent often. A few here and there but when they do be ready to pay. Its nice looking for parts i must say i can hardly wait to try it out. Take care.....
Cool man the parasite that is cad has well and truly set up camp in your brain. Yea its kind of annoying how the prices for these macs have gone through the roof the humble 10-10 even.
BigBlue thinking about the valve more the fix was to pull out the valve and gently hand drill out the carbon but.. seems kinda risky and may dislodge some into the cylinder so if it is a bit tired I would tear it down and refresh it all at once. Not worth buggering the jug I cant find a spare one anywhere.
BigBlue thinking about the valve more the fix was to pull out the valve and gently hand drill out the carbon but.. seems kinda risky and may dislodge some into the cylinder so if it is a bit tired I would tear it down and refresh it all at once. Not worth buggering the jug I cant find a spare one anywhere.
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
It's a good running saw. I'm not sure I want to go through the effort of totally dismantling it and buying all the consumables (gaskets, crank seals, etc.) for it. I just figured I could pull the valve off and clean it somehow and call it good. I already had my rebuild fun with the PM800 and that was an experience.
What do you consider a 'refresh'?
Rob
Yea fair enough if its still strong enough and starting ok then could hang out a few more years.
Refresh to me is a poor mans rebuild haha throw some rings at it if the piston aint to bad and as we say in nz "shel be right mate" maybe do the crank seals too there cheep there probably ok though. Gaskit wise the intake bits if your gentle will be ok n maybe a wee lick of that tacky red sealant youl need some for the crank split any way. If the carb running ok then dont worry about it. This is a poor mans rebuild haha. Or kit the carb too there cheep enough. A dam good clean a new plug sort the valve n away ya go. Takes a beer a cuple durreys (cigarettes) and its in bits.
Refresh to me is a poor mans rebuild haha throw some rings at it if the piston aint to bad and as we say in nz "shel be right mate" maybe do the crank seals too there cheep there probably ok though. Gaskit wise the intake bits if your gentle will be ok n maybe a wee lick of that tacky red sealant youl need some for the crank split any way. If the carb running ok then dont worry about it. This is a poor mans rebuild haha. Or kit the carb too there cheep enough. A dam good clean a new plug sort the valve n away ya go. Takes a beer a cuple durreys (cigarettes) and its in bits.
Im also an absolute newb with saws I've stripped a 10-10 down and a 700 down to the block and it still runs. flogged a few bits off the 10-10 for the 700 so havnt got it running again yet but engines are engines same rules apply. There very easy to work on.
So yea someone chime in if im leading this man astray i like to learn more too
So yea someone chime in if im leading this man astray i like to learn more too
Rob, You might not have to take it off at all. Their is a screw on the muffler side right up around the DSP Valve. Take it out and use a snall drill bit to clear the carbon from the hole leading into the cylinder. Put the screw back in and I bet your DSP valve will work.
Brian
There we go someone who actually knows haha
