McCulloch Chain Saws

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Kevin,

Does you idle speed adjust look like the one on my 7-10?

View attachment 722976
Tim, yes, my screw is shaped differently but same basic setup. When I original got the saw from Mark, that screw was set approximately flush with the outside of the air box. It is now in about as far as it can go without falling out and still doesn't seem to be enough. I went so far as trying to bend the tab on the carb slightly to get more adjustment out of it.
 
Here's mine
257e41c73b4ef8be642d5b070439f829.jpg
 
Ron,
The short brake cover is 1.3 lbs and the long brake cover is 1.7 lbs according to my scale.

So where is all the rest of that extra weight come from?

Old style cover with no chain brake; the recoil is the roller style which doesn't have the little wing at the bottom, the handle grip is not cushioned - just plastic wrapped; No operator's presence lever; and different dsp. If they were mine at least one would have 5# of crud on it, but these look clean.

Ron
 
Yea I figured about the clutch cover but that's not the whole story and didn't think about those other we bits.

I really don't understand the big deal about saw weight if a 700 is too heavy then bugger me. I know everyone here is not worried but it seems the modern plastic saw type people get up n arms about a few grams
 
I'm with you but that 8200 I have at 19+ lbs is in 100cc territory for weight. The cylinder shroud is cast and must be heavy. It can't be the AV system as my Sp80 is close in design and it only weighs 16.1 lbs with a brake. The front handle bar is steel as well.

Speaking of weight, you should see the awesome guard I have over my 6 pack. It's also kick back protection.
 
I'm with you but that 8200 I have at 19+ lbs is in 100cc territory for weight. The cylinder shroud is cast and must be heavy. It can't be the AV system as my Sp80 is close in design and it only weighs 16.1 lbs with a brake. The front handle bar is steel as well.

Speaking of weight, you should see the awesome guard I have over my 6 pack. It's also kick back protection.

Wow steel handle I wonder why they went with that.

I'm working on 1 of those 6 pack guards too haha
 
Help me out guys. The only carb kit I can find that lists the HL 19D that was in this 1-86 is $38!!!!! And it looks like it comes with a bunch of crap I dont need. Does someone have a kit number that will work for me. Really just need diaphragms, gaskets and welch plugs. I can make due with the needle and seat if I have to ai think.
There are a ton of $8.00 lots on Ebay but they dont list this carb.
 
It will be a while before I can check it out, we are currently thawing out and with 30+ inches of snow on the ground it is terribly muddy where it's not covered with snow, slush, and ice. One week from today I will be returning to Pakistan for 10 days so it will likely be April before I have a chance to actually put any saws in the wood.

Mark
 
So I decided to check the 7-10 and see where the carb adjustments really are.
I found that I ended up with the H set at about 1 and 1/4 turns but the low........ only about 1/2 turn. So the low seems adjusted too lean which is confirmed by the off idle bog. But on the other hand it seems rich because I cant get an idle...... help me understand this..
If I go richer from where I am at the idle quality goes away and i run out of adjustment to bring the idle speed up. If I go leaner from where I am at I can get a beutiful smooth idle but it comes with a terrible lean bog as would be expected at a setting that lean.
Is there a break over point I am not reaching in richening the low where the idle will start to come back the other way? What are the factory recommended starting points? I have always done 1 turn on the high and 3/4 to 1 turn on the low.
Anyone have any insight on what I might have going on here? I feel like I'm chasing my tail.
 
Anyone have any insight on what I might have going on here? I feel like I'm chasing my tail.

Stick something in between the lever and the idle speed screw or put some tape on the end of the idle speed screw to get the idle speed up and then adjust the low screw to around 1-1/8 turns out and see how it rev's up from there.

I wonder if you have the wrong idle adjust screw in there.
 
I wonder if you have the wrong idle adjust screw in there.

Ditto.

A vac test may also reveal a leak (bottom end or intake) that is actually being sealed by pressure. (Think of a one way valve somewhere that'll open with vac and seal with pressure..., typically an oil seal.) And there has to be a way to overcome or block the decomp for an accurate vac test..., or pressure test for that matter. If it's leaking bad enough during a pressure test, a smaller leak may not even be detectable until the larger one is fixed (or blocked in the case of the decomp)

As for the 044 Ron, I'd gladly make a comparison if I had a 7-10 handy. LOL And fwiw, my 044 is a pretty bad ass runner that sees quite a bit of use. Nimble, reliable, and tough. Can't see myself grabbing a PM700 in favor of it any time soon except for the Mac fun factor. But that's just me. And to be honest, I haven't put much time on my PM700's at all. They're also 3 lbs. heavier than an 044 which comes in at 13 lbs. dry w/o bar and chain..., pretty much the same as a 7-10 weight-wise.
 
Another help request.
Does anyone know the size of the screw that holds the throttle arm to the shaft on a tillotson hl? I spent 30 minutes at the hardware store trying to match something up and still had no luck.
 

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