McCulloch Chain Saws

[2broke2ride]

Well, the saga ends, for me anyway. The 7-10 from hell is boxed up and will be headed to Poge tomorrow. We ended up working out a deal that I think we can both live with. Hopefully all of the new info on the pistons vs the porting will help him to get a good runner out of it.

 

[vinnywv]

Thats great for both of you. I hope you have luck with it.

 

[Goinwheelin]

This will be interesting.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'll need to find time for it for starters. Worse case scenario? I still have another PM700 to fall back on if I get as frustrated with it as Kevin did. He's got a pretty nice one on the way that I hope will help ease the pain of all that misery. Not that I think I have the magic answer to it. Matter of fact, I'm thinking the p/c are a CP70/6-10 (or the like) with such an early model number and a 10 prefix along with the three finger transfers (if I have my cylinders straight from all the pics and posts). Seems like a possibility considering the general production era. Sorta even adds to the mystery instead of solving it. Will need to pick Bob's brain (and inventory) to compare IPL part numbers with actual parts to maybe clarify some speculation on the cylinder porting and maybe even a piston surprise along the way. We'll see. I think it'll be fun once I get into it.

Should be interesting indeed.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I'll need to find time for it for starters. Worse case scenario? I still have another PM700 to fall back on if I get as frustrated with it as Kevin did. He's got a pretty nice one on the way that I hope will help ease the pain of all that misery. Not that I think I have the magic answer to it. Matter of fact, I'm thinking the p/c are a CP70/6-10 (or the like) with such an early model number and a 10 prefix along with the three finger transfers (if I have my cylinders straight from all the pics and posts). Seems like a possibility considering the general production era. Sorta even adds to the mystery instead of solving it. Will need to pick Bob's brain (and inventory) to compare IPL part numbers with actual parts to maybe clarify some speculation on the cylinder porting and maybe even a piston surprise along the way. We'll see. I think it'll be fun once I get into it.

Should be interesting indeed.

Weird but I'm excited about it! I was racking my mind over that one.
I've got a question about the 1-60 gear drive , Is the chain supposed to spin all the time ? Like at idle and pulling the starter cord?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'll need to find time for it for starters. Worse case scenario? I still have another PM700 to fall back on if I get as frustrated with it as Kevin did. He's got a pretty nice one on the way that I hope will help ease the pain of all that misery. Not that I think I have the magic answer to it. Matter of fact, I'm thinking the p/c are a CP70/6-10 (or the like) with such an early model number and a 10 prefix along with the three finger transfers (if I have my cylinders straight from all the pics and posts). Seems like a possibility considering the general production era. Sorta even adds to the mystery instead of solving it. Will need to pick Bob's brain (and inventory) to compare IPL part numbers with actual parts to maybe clarify some speculation on the cylinder porting and maybe even a piston surprise along the way. We'll see. I think it'll be fun once I get into it.

Should be interesting indeed.

Cool I'm really glad he's got a 700 coming.

I think it's a 6-10 cylinder too weather factory or not.. a 6-10L if ya like

 

[heimannm]

The 1-60 has a centrifugal clutch just like all the other saws, chain should move at idle if everything is correct.

I have been keeping busy trying to get all of the 33/35/39 type saws & devices cleaned up and moved over to the museum. Once I get an adequate grouping done and photos all taken I will put together a thread dedicated to those "watering can" type saws/power heads.

So far...

33 - I will add a 12" bar that I have been keeping for just such an occasion.





Super 33





35 Bow





35 Direct Drive Drill





35 Spur Gear Reduction Drill





Mark

 

[heimannm]

35 Auger





39 - This one is actually cleaned up as well but I already took it down to the museum and didn't get the after photos.





I think there is another 33 or 35 already down in the museum as well, I will have to get some additional photos tomorrow.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

35 Auger

View attachment 797375

View attachment 797376

39 - This one is actually cleaned up as well but I already took it down to the museum and didn't get the after photos.

View attachment 797378

View attachment 797379

I think there is another 33 or 35 already down in the museum as well, I will have to get some additional photos tomorrow.

Mark

How many of these "watering can" saws are running Mark?

 

[heimannm]

All of them will at least run on a prime, I am trying to avoid too much left over fuel in saws for the museum... My goal is to have as many as possible in running condition but I don't plan on taking them out and running them for the foreseeable future.

Mark

 

[kbeck]

All of them will at least run on a prime, I am trying to avoid too much left over fuel in saws for the museum... My goal is to have as many as possible in running condition but I don't plan on taking them out and running them for the foreseeable future.

Mark

Nice old saws my first Mac is a Super 33 I found in a private dump 15 years ago still needs work but does run on prime

 

[vizette]

Mac 7-10 lookin' for some help... sort of a re-post, but I've made some progress.

Background: ebay buy, had it running, idled, about 120lb compression, NO guts. I've got two 10-10 with more grunt and those are ~120 too. I assumed it was exhaust scoring based on what I saw looking down the intake. Took it apart to better evaluate, doesn't look nearly as bad as I expected...

piston/rings/cylinder:

• Rings look OK but will replace anyway since I'm here (more on this below)
  
• Piston isn't terrible, one not-so-great spot on the top
  
• Most markings on the cylinder don't feel bad, except for the obvious bad spot at the exhaust port, and even that doesn't feel that bad, except for right down the middle of it

Bearings and seals:

• Bearings feel good, no slop
• Going to replace seals since I'm here - they feel pretty stiff
  
• Any "gotchas" on the seal replacement? I've seen the "drill a hole to use as a grab" method...

Cosmetic:

• when you paint, do you use an etching primer? Just shoot it raw? Not looking for perfection, it'll definitely get used once back together...

tag is: 600052D

update:
SO, got a picture of the rings pushed back in the cylinder, this can't be right. I mean... you could gap these with car keys. How'd this even run or register on the gauge?

 

[vinnywv]

I cant tell for sure but in the first picture it looks like a spot on the right of the exhaust port is missing chrome. If so thats no good. The gap also does appear a bit excessive. But that needs measured in the cylinder really. Take the ring off and place it in the cylinder as if it were on the piston. And then measure it. But really look at that spot...is it missing chrome?

 

[vinnywv]

I now see the last photo, dipstick i am. Yes it seems alot on the gap. Sorry, hard to see on a phone

 

[2broke2ride]

I am really in need of a replacement muffler for the 1-86. It is the box style muffler and it is rotted out bad. I suppose the round can would work too. If anybody has anything, let me know. Thanks.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I am really in need of a replacement muffler for the 1-86. It is the box style muffler and it is rotted out bad. I suppose the round can would work too. If anybody has anything, let me know. Thanks.

Would a stack work?

 

[Goinwheelin]

Mac 7-10 lookin' for some help.

Keep in mind you have static compression and dynamic compression. A good static # doesn’t always correlate to good performance. Spark timing and volumetric efficiency come into play, as well as vacuum leaks etc.
You check the ring gap with the ring in the bore. Use the piston to square it up. I just went thru one of my 7-10 that had some scuffs in the bore. I used fine scotch brite pad to clean it up and installed new rings and it runs well all things considered. I also opened the exhaust port to match the gasket and cleaned the casting marks out of the intake. I’m going to be putting together another 7-10 that has a much better bore and I’ll leave stock so I’ll have a comparison.

edit:
I see the ring pic now sorry.

Seals just pop out I use a pick tool or screwdriver.

as far as paint I can’t help you much there as I haven’t got into full restoration

 

[2broke2ride]

Would a stack work?

No, this saw has the metal cover over the muffler so it has to exit out the bottom.

 

[vizette]

But really look at that spot...is it missing chrome?

Not 100% sure what's going on with that spot yet. Honestly I need to wet sand it a bit and see where I'm at. There's definitely one good scratch down the middle of that scuff that's probably through the plating, but the rest of it I think looks worse than it feels. Hopefully get out there tonight and see what's up...

I just went thru one of my 7-10 that had some scuffs in the bore. I used fine scotch brite pad to clean it up and installed new rings and it runs well all things considered. I also opened the exhaust port to match the gasket and cleaned the casting marks out of the intake. I’m going to be putting together another 7-10 that has a much better bore and I’ll leave stock so I’ll have a comparison.

Thanks! Hoping I can get away with doing that with this saw. I did notice that mismatch on the exhaust so was thinking about getting on that with the dremel.

Anyone tried one of these yet?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CNEV5P0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A221LQEWFFVQAG&psc=1
They come in various grits, but seems like a much better solution than a ball hone for chrome/nikasil and more thorough than swiping a scotchbrite pad around by hand. I was actually debating wrapping a small Mothers Powerball with a scotchbrite pad until I saw this.

 

[Goinwheelin]

That’s pretty slick. I used a scotch brite 7447 hand pad wrapped around a piece of bar stock and a drill.