McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Don’t worry bud I will always be a Mac guy first and foremost.Omg check out that avatar
Haha ok then. Good saws though those green things.
It's almost like that's how the Mac's could have gone if black n decker actually put time into a decent 10 series replacement instead they came up with the 600 series.
A good AV upright cylinder from mac to compete with the imports
It is sad what happened to the McCulloch brand after the old man passed.
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Well this saw arrived today. It is very crusty but the fuel tank is clean, it pulls over with wicked compression, piston and cylinder look good through the exhaust port, and best of all, I think it's a 70cc saw!!!! That would make it a 5-10 I guess??? It has no ID on it anywhere so I measured best I could with a zip tie in the exhaust port. Sure seems closer to 2 than 1.75. It also has an SDC carb if that means anything.
The muffler is rotted out, there is a hole in the fan housing and a fin missing off the flyweel, there is a hole in the bottom of the airbox likely from a thrown chain, the air filter is missing, and it is covered in used crankcase oil.
Does this use the same air filter as the 10-10? I have a spare here but it seems a bit too short at the back.
Some pics, creative packaging lol
There will be more pics to come.
Very sad indeed. Atleast he didn't have to watch it circling the drain I spose.
Well this saw arrived today. It is very crusty but the fuel tank is clean, it pulls over with wicked compression, piston and cylinder look good through the exhaust port, and best of all, I think it's a 70cc saw!!!! That would make it a 5-10 I guess??? It has no ID on it anywhere so I measured best I could with a zip tie in the exhaust port. Sure seems closer to 2 than 1.75. It also has an SDC carb if that means anything.
The muffler is rotted out, there is a hole in the fan housing and a fin missing off the flyweel, there is a hole in the bottom of the airbox likely from a thrown chain, the air filter is missing, and it is covered in used crankcase oil.
Does this use the same air filter as the 10-10? I have a spare here but it seems a bit too short at the back.
Some pics, creative packaging lol
There will be more pics to come.
You beauty 2broke. That to me by the shape of the fins is a 70cc. Lucky it didn't have a dam bullfrog under the lid. Well done man I'm sure it will clean up nicely.
@2broke2ride there was a lot of mystery Macs from that seller, I’m glad you got a good one. I got that 7-10A with the cold weather air cleaner cover from them. The packaging doesn’t surprise me. Mine was just thrown in a box no packing lol!
Well this saw arrived today. It is very crusty but the fuel tank is clean, it pulls over with wicked compression, piston and cylinder look good through the exhaust port, and best of all, I think it's a 70cc saw!!!! That would make it a 5-10 I guess??? It has no ID on it anywhere so I measured best I could with a zip tie in the exhaust port. Sure seems closer to 2 than 1.75. It also has an SDC carb if that means anything.
The muffler is rotted out, there is a hole in the fan housing and a fin missing off the flyweel, there is a hole in the bottom of the airbox likely from a thrown chain, the air filter is missing, and it is covered in used crankcase oil.
Does this use the same air filter as the 10-10? I have a spare here but it seems a bit too short at the back.
Some pics, creative packaging lol
There will be more pics to come.
Glad it survived the shipping! Looks like a winner.
Good find vizette, that scotch Brite ball looks like a brilliant idea!
Robert McCulloch sold the company to Black and Decker in 1974. He died in 1977.
FWIW - the 5200/5400 CV saws are really, really strong.
Here is the 39 cleaned up on the floor over in the museum.
The 39 has the 35A style manual thumb operated oiler at the rear handle.
Here is the 39 cleaned up on the floor over in the museum.
The 39 has the 35A style manual thumb operated oiler at the rear handle.
The most significant difference with the 39 is the depth of the fuel tank (look at the bottom of the saw), the tank bottom is about 3/4" where as the rest of the saws are more like 1/4".
Mark
Mark
I was going to go through this 33B for a good clean up but I think I am too late.
I will have to poke around in the attic a bit more to see if I have another 33B lurking about. I will also have to check and see if my brother is ready to part with his NIB 35A.
Mark
I will have to poke around in the attic a bit more to see if I have another 33B lurking about. I will also have to check and see if my brother is ready to part with his NIB 35A.
Mark
Yikes, that's pretty crusty! Is there enough left to even call it a parts saw? Kinda looks like when a NiCad battery goes south and spooges all over the inside of your remote. 
That 35A is beautiful though...
Why did they nose the bars up like that on some of those older saws? So odd looking. I can't see any functional advantage to that. It always makes me think of the old Looney Toons when they would get kicked in the butt, and it would stick up in the air.
That 35A is beautiful though...Why did they nose the bars up like that on some of those older saws? So odd looking. I can't see any functional advantage to that. It always makes me think of the old Looney Toons when they would get kicked in the butt, and it would stick up in the air.
I have a 33??? I think setting in my shop with the carb off it. It has been that way for 2 years now. I need to get it together. It ran on prime. I was looking at it today. Maybe a new saw for Ron...LOL
Brian
Brian
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Ok, who has parts for this saw? I'd rather buy from you guys than Ebay. As of now I need, a recoil assembly, muffler, and the DSP lever. I would also take a whole tank bottom for the right price if the DSP lever was ok. I may need starter pawls too, I'm not sure what they should look like but the current starter is rigged and wont catch reliably enough to even start diagnosing the saw.Well this saw arrived today. It is very crusty but the fuel tank is clean, it pulls over with wicked compression, piston and cylinder look good through the exhaust port, and best of all, I think it's a 70cc saw!!!! That would make it a 5-10 I guess??? It has no ID on it anywhere so I measured best I could with a zip tie in the exhaust port. Sure seems closer to 2 than 1.75. It also has an SDC carb if that means anything.
The muffler is rotted out, there is a hole in the fan housing and a fin missing off the flyweel, there is a hole in the bottom of the airbox likely from a thrown chain, the air filter is missing, and it is covered in used crankcase oil.
Does this use the same air filter as the 10-10? I have a spare here but it seems a bit too short at the back.
Some pics, creative packaging lol
There will be more pics to come.
Interesting that it has a yellow recoil/handle. Beautiful saw.
I just use an eye bolt and thread some Scotch-Brite through, wad it up a bit, then stuff another piece into the cylinder to wrap around what's in the eye bolt and go to town with it chucked into a 3/8 drill. Works great. You can use anything soft in the eye bolt to achieve the right amount of 'stuffer' to wrap the Scotch-Brite around. I just use Scotch-Brite itself for more friction to minimize slippage and to achieve better contact with the cylinder wall.
I also use 80 ~ 120 grit plumber's/welder's soldering paper rolls for initial transfer removal. Cut a slit in a piece of brake line for a mandrel and wrap the whole roll around it. Just tear it off as you go when the paper loads up or gets smooth. You can obviously just cut strips from normal sheets of sand paper. The brake line mandrel is the ticket either way. Cut two slits directly across from each other for a flapper approach.
I've cleaned a lot of cylinders using this method. The purple Scotch-Brite leaves a real nice finish.
kbeck
ArboristSite Member
Nice ideal with the scotch brite sure would work better then trying to get my fingers in there haven't done enough with the chainsaw cylinders to think outside the box
worked mostly with larger bores that you could take the heads off and access both ends
worked mostly with larger bores that you could take the heads off and access both ends
what distinguishes a 33b?
got a stuck 33 here, haven't paid it much mind yet.
id pass it along if you wanted. has full wrap. not much paint.
got a stuck 33 here, haven't paid it much mind yet.
id pass it along if you wanted. has full wrap. not much paint.
The 33 has the small air filter. The 33B has a large air filter but the carburetor behind it is just like the 33 and still no hole in the handle for winding up the starter. The 33 and 33B were all yellow.
The Super 33 has a black handle/cover and large or small air filter depending on the vintage, 33 style carburetor, normally a full wrap bar, and the hole for winding the starter.
The 35 has the large air filter and an different carburetor body where the screws that fasten the cover also hold the bottom of the carburetor to the body of the saw, still has the manual oiler button on the gearbox, and includes the hole to wind the starter.
The 35A has the large air filter and 35 style carburetor, the manual oiler button is up by the rear handle, and includes the hold to wind the starter. The 35 and 35A were all yellow.
The 39 looks like a Super 33 color scheme (black handle/cover, yellow ending & gearbox) but has the extended fuel tank, large air filter, 35 style carburetor, and the manual oiler button up by the rear handle as well as the hole to wind the starter.
There was also an add on optional remote oiler button to refit the 33 and 35 saws.
I have no idea why the stuck the bar up at an angle like that, but it is distinctive.
Mark
The Super 33 has a black handle/cover and large or small air filter depending on the vintage, 33 style carburetor, normally a full wrap bar, and the hole for winding the starter.
The 35 has the large air filter and an different carburetor body where the screws that fasten the cover also hold the bottom of the carburetor to the body of the saw, still has the manual oiler button on the gearbox, and includes the hole to wind the starter.
The 35A has the large air filter and 35 style carburetor, the manual oiler button is up by the rear handle, and includes the hold to wind the starter. The 35 and 35A were all yellow.
The 39 looks like a Super 33 color scheme (black handle/cover, yellow ending & gearbox) but has the extended fuel tank, large air filter, 35 style carburetor, and the manual oiler button up by the rear handle as well as the hole to wind the starter.
There was also an add on optional remote oiler button to refit the 33 and 35 saws.
I have no idea why the stuck the bar up at an angle like that, but it is distinctive.
Mark
