McCulloch Chain Saws

[PogoInTheWoods]

That one is really nice Vinny,

Ditto. Great score.

I could never justify the expense of a traditional breaker/spinner setup but finally relented when I finally found one on CL which included quite a bit of raw chain along with a few loops and a very large supply of presets, cutters and drive links. Most of the latter ended up being for chain I'd never use, but there was also some useful stock included. Think I posted a pic recently so will spare the repeat here. It's an older Tecomec which is essentially an Oregon and is what all the other traditional type breaker/spinner knock-offs are based on, so the common Oregon punches and anvils fit and work just fine.

I don't spin a lot of chain, but one thing I learned quickly is to use components designed for the chain. There's no reason not to, and cutting corners or mixing and matching can be unsafe and more of a pain than is worthwhile. Chain parts are cheap, and anything you'd ever need is on the bay except the more unusual and larger older stuff (since Mark has already bought it all). LOL
( And that bar looks great too, Mark.)

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Anyone have a recipe for a pop-up piston in these 10 series saws?

I've never heard of anyone doing one..., not to say someone hasn't tried. There's probably a reason why. I'd say you're in 'roll your own' territory there, though there is a guy on one YouTube and one of the FB groups who claims to somehow be doing squish manipulation on the short blocks. Not sure how that would be possible without a popup and/or some precision machining and I haven't been inclined to follow the guy enough to see if he's actually bringing anything new to the table.

And speaking if pistons, I finally received the 69412 with 85241 rings and 65389 pin for the 7-10. For anyone paying close enough attention, yes, it's not a typical 7-10 piston and was ordered specifically for its 3 finger transfer cylinder type as can be found on other 70cc saws of the particular production time frame. I'm a little disappointed in its condition and not quite sure how to go about cleaning off the film of whatever is coating it without using some sort of abrasive. My 'go to' for piston cleaning has been 20 micron lapping paper, but even that can remove more material than desired if used too aggressively. I've already gone the WD-40/alcohol/acetone and a paper towel route with only limited success and am open to other suggestions before using the lapping paper. I can see what appear to be machine marks underneath unless that's just wishful thinking or an illusion. Can't help but be curious about what the hazy coating actually is. Whatever it is, I can feel it with a finger tip and it isn't coming off with solvents that would normally remove adhesive type material. I'd be uncomfortable just lubing it with oil and assuming it would go away after running for awhile..., in case it's actually aluminum from the piston itself oxidizing/deteriorating.

Ring lands are pinned and the ring set is steel and chrome. The chrome one should be on top and seems to fit the top ring land better than the bottom one. Haven't tried the steel one in the bottom position for measuring the slop yet and am waiting until I have the piston cleaned up to install it. Don't want to risk breaking it farting around too much, but that slop looks excessive. The rings are both the same thickness. No beveled ends on either ring for the pins or beveled edge on the chrome ring and no orientation marks on either ring.

​

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Maybe one of these days I will get him to at least ride that Bul. Or maybe the KDX200 or the Sherco or the Goldwing.... Or maybe one of the race bikes.

I do have a chunk of RR rail at the shop, somewhere if it has not sprouted legs. When I am needing an anvil I forget that I have it.

Parts for the 35 should be here tomorrow. May have it ready to run for Ron this weekend. HaHaHa I really just want to get it in good running condition, clean it up nicely and use it as a display, but be able to run it if someone wants to see it run and cut. Not something I would want to work all day. I think after that 1-40 ate Ron that time, really old saws are off his list to run, and don't blame him. This thing looks like it would be really awkward to run. I have never ran a gear drive saw, another reason I want to run it.

Brian

Said it before but those kdx200s are 1 of the best in history. A perfect 1 bike for all tasks nearly can be thrashed round like an mx bike or follow the kids around or teach the wife to ride without killing her.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I've never heard of anyone doing one..., not to say someone hasn't tried. There's probably a reason why. I'd say you're in 'roll your own' territory there, though there is a guy on one YouTube and one of the FB groups who claims to somehow be doing squish manipulation on the short blocks. Not sure how that would be possible without a popup and/or some precision machining and I haven't been inclined to follow the guy enough to see if he's actually bringing anything new to the table.

And speaking if pistons, I finally received the 69412 with 85241 rings and 65389 pin for the 7-10. For anyone paying close enough attention, yes, it's not a typical 7-10 piston and was ordered specifically for its 3 finger transfer cylinder type as can be found on other 70cc saws of the particular production time frame. I'm a little disappointed in its condition and not quite sure how to go about cleaning off the film of whatever is coating it without using some sort of abrasive. My 'go to' for piston cleaning has been 20 micron lapping paper, but even that can remove more material than desired if used too aggressively. I've already gone the WD-40/alcohol/acetone and a paper towel route with only limited success and am open to other suggestions before using the lapping paper. I can see what appear to be machine marks underneath unless that's just wishful thinking or an illusion. Can't help but be curious about what the hazy coating actually is. Whatever it is, I can feel it with a finger tip and it isn't coming off with solvents that would normally remove adhesive type material. I'd be uncomfortable just lubing it with oil and assuming it would go away after running for awhile..., in case it's actually aluminum from the piston itself oxidizing/deteriorating.

Ring lands are pinned and the ring set is steel and chrome. The chrome one should be on top and seems to fit the top ring land better than the bottom one. Haven't tried the steel one in the bottom position for measuring the slop yet and am waiting until I have the piston cleaned up to install it. Don't want to risk breaking it farting around too much, but that slop looks excessive. The rings are both the same thickness. No beveled ends on either ring for the pins or beveled edge on the chrome ring and no orientation marks on either ring.

View attachment 801500

View attachment 801502 View attachment 801503​

Does brake clean touch that "film" ?

 

[vinnywv]

I've never heard of anyone doing one..., not to say someone hasn't tried. There's probably a reason why. I'd say you're in 'roll your own' territory there, though there is a guy on one YouTube and one of the FB groups who claims to somehow be doing squish manipulation on the short blocks. Not sure how that would be possible without a popup and/or some precision machining and I haven't been inclined to follow the guy enough to see if he's actually bringing anything new to the table.

And speaking if pistons, I finally received the 69412 with 85241 rings and 65389 pin for the 7-10. For anyone paying close enough attention, yes, it's not a typical 7-10 piston and was ordered specifically for its 3 finger transfer cylinder type as can be found on other 70cc saws of the particular production time frame. I'm a little disappointed in its condition and not quite sure how to go about cleaning off the film of whatever is coating it without using some sort of abrasive. My 'go to' for piston cleaning has been 20 micron lapping paper, but even that can remove more material than desired if used too aggressively. I've already gone the WD-40/alcohol/acetone and a paper towel route with only limited success and am open to other suggestions before using the lapping paper. I can see what appear to be machine marks underneath unless that's just wishful thinking or an illusion. Can't help but be curious about what the hazy coating actually is. Whatever it is, I can feel it with a finger tip and it isn't coming off with solvents that would normally remove adhesive type material. I'd be uncomfortable just lubing it with oil and assuming it would go away after running for awhile..., in case it's actually aluminum from the piston itself oxidizing/deteriorating.

Ring lands are pinned and the ring set is steel and chrome. The chrome one should be on top and seems to fit the top ring land better than the bottom one. Haven't tried the steel one in the bottom position for measuring the slop yet and am waiting until I have the piston cleaned up to install it. Don't want to risk breaking it farting around too much, but that slop looks excessive. The rings are both the same thickness. No beveled ends on either ring for the pins or beveled edge on the chrome ring and no orientation marks on either ring.

View attachment 801500

View attachment 801502 View attachment 801503​

I used a scotchbrite pad. Came right off. Covered it in 2 stroke oil and used a scotchbrite. Maroon colored pad. Took very little effort so im sure i didnt lose much material if any. It runs great. No problems.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sounds good. The lapping paper is less aggressive than the red Scotch-Brite. Will try that in a bit and see how it goes. Just tried some brake clean and it helped a little. Still a very non-uniform color and finish to the surface. Maybe I'm splitting hairs over a 50 year old 'new' part? LOL

Still trying to find the time and space to dive into the saw. Pretty excited about it now that I have the piston.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'm excited too Poge. Think many of us are.

 

[vinnywv]

I sure as heck am. Ive lost a lot of sleep thinking about that darn thing!! I sure hope it runs right after all of everyone involved's efforts and head scratching.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Sounds good. The lapping paper is less aggressive than the red Scotch-Brite. Will try that in a bit and see how it goes. Just tried some brake clean and it helped a little. Still a very non-uniform color and finish to the surface. Maybe I'm splitting hairs over a 50 year old 'new' part? LOL

Still trying to find the time and space to dive into the saw. Pretty excited about it now that I have the piston.

Cosmoline (spelled wrong) was an old oil/ pariffin based preservative that was used by the military and others in the machine parts world at around the time that piston was made, anything like acetone or non degreasing cleaner won't touch it, I think over time the paraffin in it becomes very hard.
I'd try a ph7 degreaser like Awsome or mean green and very hot water. Engine fogger is similar but usually doesn't have decades to cure and harden. Which is probably why the brake cleaner seemed to help with its degreasing agents.

 

[2broke2ride]

Recieved a little care package from Mark today. Hopefully have time tomorrow evening to start reassembly.
Also, a picture of my custom "muffler" the old one was totally rotted out and I didnt want to spend any more money on this saw so I made one from scratch. Obviously the lower duct is original but the box section is totally homemade.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Recieved a little care package from Mark today. Hopefully have time tomorrow evening to start reassembly.
Also, a picture of my custom "muffler" the old one was totally rotted out and I didnt want to spend any more money on this saw so I made one from scratch. Obviously the lower duct is original but the box section is totally homemade.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Mate that is primo I love it

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That's awesome. LOL 3..., 2..., 1..., --- Jethro!

I'd try a ph7 degreaser like Awsome or mean green and very hot water.

Thanks for the input. And an interesting observation about the preservation technique. Wanted to stay away from a water based solution simply due to the bearings already being installed in the pin bosses. I'm pleased by the results of using the 20 micron lapping paper with some fuel mix as the solvent. Turned out real nice.

​

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

That's awesome. LOL 3..., 2..., 1..., --- Jethro!



Thanks for the input. And an interesting observation about the preservation technique. Wanted to stay away from a water based solution simply due to the bearings already being installed in the pin bosses. I'm pleased by the results of using the 20 micron lapping paper with some fuel mix as the solvent. Turned out real nice.

View attachment 801651​

Hahaha the Mac buzzer went off and saw a great piece of fabrication.

That piston looks pretty now. When's it going in it? Were all biting our nails waiting for news

 

[vinnywv]

Recieved a little care package from Mark today. Hopefully have time tomorrow evening to start reassembly.
Also, a picture of my custom "muffler" the old one was totally rotted out and I didnt want to spend any more money on this saw so I made one from scratch. Obviously the lower duct is original but the box section is totally homemade.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

That muffler is badazz!! I bet it sounds fantastic once it fires up!

 

[2broke2ride]

That muffler is badazz!! I bet it sounds fantastic once it fires up!

Yes, I believe it will talk a bit lol.
I figured if I'm gonna make something I may as well make it look cool too lol.
My brazing skills leave a little to be desired but it is better than what was there.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Yes, I believe it will talk a bit lol.
I figured if I'm gonna make something I may as well make it look cool too lol.
My brazing skills leave a little to be desired but it is better than what was there.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

You've done a great job brazing that up

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That piston looks pretty now. When's it going in it?

I started tearing the saw down tonight until I found out the hard way there was still oil in the tank. Silly me.

Also need to figure out the trigger based DSP arrangement before pulling the tank. My first one of those. Seems simple enough..., and that makes me a little nervous. Looks like if I just detach it from the air box those springs are gonna have something to say about what happens next. Think I'll wait till morning to find out.

 

[2broke2ride]

I started tearing the saw down tonight until I found out the hard way there was still oil in the tank. Silly me.

Also need to figure out the trigger based DSP arrangement before pulling the tank. My first one of those. Seems simple enough..., and that makes me a little nervous. Looks like if I just detach it from the air box those springs are gonna have something to say about what happens next. Think I'll wait till morning to find out.

Wow. That means.it made it all the way back from Mark and all the way to you with oil in the tank lol.
The DSP is harder to get back together than to remove. Need to line up the oiler rod, gaskets, spacer and the spring and fork that activate the DSP all at once.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I started tearing the saw down tonight until I found out the hard way there was still oil in the tank. Silly me.

Also need to figure out the trigger based DSP arrangement before pulling the tank. My first one of those. Seems simple enough..., and that makes me a little nervous. Looks like if I just detach it from the air box those springs are gonna have something to say about what happens next. Think I'll wait till morning to find out.

Haha we all do it.... several times for me lol.

Wow. That means.it made it all the way back from Mark and all the way to you with oil in the tank lol.
The DSP is harder to get back together than to remove. Need to line up the oiler rod, gaskets, spacer and the spring and fork that activate the DSP all at once.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sounds like fun. You guys are keen sending it with bodily fluids still inside.

 

[rarefish383]

Just curious, has any one found pistons from other saws that will work? I knew a guy that raced a Chevy 292 six cylinder and he ran Dodge 440 pistons in it. Obviously a little machine work on rods and stuff. Just wondering.