Ms400 vs Ms461 vs Ms462 vs 500i?

[MustangMike]

I agree it depends on the size wood you usually cut (bar length). A shorter bar is MUCH easier to handle and be safe with. Also, over cutting in a log pile is a PITA. Semi Chisel is a good option.

If the log is just occasionally slightly longer than your bar, reach over the top and cut the backside a bit, then just buck as normal.

Square file files are a lot more expensive and harder to find and you have to learn how to do it (you file from outside in, not inside out like w/round). But square file will cut a bit faster and is better for both ripping and milling (w/o changing the angles) so I square file all my chains. It is a learning process, but once you get used to it, it goes just as fast as round filing.

This, and other items on their site are very helpful. Always keep the corner of the file in the corner of the tooth, and for all around go 3 - 45 degree angles (tilt, down, back). This will provide a durable edge that cuts well. Faster angles will dull more quickly.

https://www.madsens1.com/how-to-sharpen-square-chisel-chain-with

I much prefer the 6-sided rectangular files to the triangle shaped ones. They also are better for taking down your rakers.

 

[MustangMike]

So where approximately where in the timeline would my new 044 fit? The first 3 digits in the serial number are 123

The first # (1) is the location of manufacture (1-Germany).

Your saw is "early". If it was registered, a dealer could tell you when it was sold. You likely have the smaller bolts holding the recoil.

The SN on my red-lever saw purchased new in Dec 92 is 126234303. I believe all 044s were manufactured in Germany.

IIRC correctly, SNs soon after mine were 12mm 044s.

Remember, these saws were made when we were still using leaded gasoline, (lead was a lubricant) so use good oil at a good ratio and you should be fine. I use Amsoil Saber at 40:1. It burns clean and gives good protection. Stihl oil has less viscosity and will often produce carbon if used at richer than 50:1.

 

[Courage]

Square file is going to cut faster, but I've never learned how to do it by hand. Plus, IF you choose to use some kind of jig to square file your chain, they are rather expensive IMHO. That's why I use a round file.

Bar length should be dictated by the size of the wood you're cutting. About 2" of your bar length can't reach the wood (more if you're using bigger felling dawgs) so I 28" bar can only reach about 26" into a log. My recommendation is that you want your bar to reach all the way through the cut about 75% of the time. If most of what you are cutting is under 23", then the 25" bar would be great. If most of what you're cutting is over 23", I'd go with the 28" bar.

IMHO, there's no reason to ever have a skip chain on a 25" bar. In your case, I don't think you should need one on a 28" bar either. If you do, then semi-skip should be sufficient. If you decide that a skip chain works better for you on a 28" bar, I'd recommend dropping down to the 25" bar. I'd rather give up the extra bar length (and weight) than reduce the number of cutters in the wood.

Gotcha makes sense about the square filing.
Most of what I cut a 20 would even be fine for, but, I've been running into some bigger would lately, so idk. I might go 25 to start with, and then get a 28 when I get a 60cc saw, and put the 25 on the 60cc. Guess I should figure out if the next saw will be bigger or smaller than my 044.

I agree it depends on the size wood you usually cut (bar length). A shorter bar is MUCH easier to handle and be safe with. Also, over cutting in a log pile is a PITA. Semi Chisel is a good option.

If the log is just occasionally slightly longer than your bar, reach over the top and cut the backside a bit, then just buck as normal.

Square file files are a lot more expensive and harder to find and you have to learn how to do it (you file from outside in, not inside out like w/round). But square file will cut a bit faster and is better for both ripping and milling (w/o changing the angles) so I square file all my chains. It is a learning process, but once you get used to it, it goes just as fast as round filing.

This, and other items on their site are very helpful. Always keep the corner of the file in the corner of the tooth, and for all around go 3 - 45 degree angles (tilt, down, back). This will provide a durable edge that cuts well. Faster angles will dull more quickly.

https://www.madsens1.com/how-to-sharpen-square-chisel-chain-with

I much prefer the 6-sided rectangular files to the triangle shaped ones. They also are better for taking down your rakers.

Thanks for explaining about the chain differences and filing! I really appreciate it! Not sure if I'll stick with round, or go to square. I've always filed round, but my dad's always filed square...

The first # (1) is the location of manufacture (1-Germany).

Your saw is "early". If it was registered, a dealer could tell you when it was sold. You likely have the smaller bolts holding the recoil.

The SN on my red-lever saw purchased new in Dec 92 is 126234303. I believe all 044s were manufactured in Germany.

IIRC correctly, SNs soon after mine were 12mm 044s.

Remember, these saws were made when we were still using leaded gasoline, (lead was a lubricant) so use good oil at a good ratio and you should be fine. I use Amsoil Saber at 40:1. It burns clean and gives good protection. Stihl oil has less viscosity and will often produce carbon if used at richer than 50:1.

Gotcha. Are the smaller recoil bolts a problem typically? Thanks for the oil recommendation! Sounds like a good idea!

 

[MustangMike]

The smaller bolts are not a problem, just recoils are not interchangeable as a result. I've heard of folks drilling and re-taping the holes.

I meant to say semi-skip, not semi chisel.

If your Dad does square file, I would learn it from him. I like to put the bar in a vice, have a shortened paint stirrer in one hand (that I press against the back of the tooth to keep it still) and the square file in my other hand. I do one side, then switch hands and reverse the direction of the bar in the vice and do the other side.

Once you get used to it, it will go just as fast as round file, and the file will fit into the tooth like a glove.

I like the versatility of square file chain, good for crosscut, ripping and milling.