McCulloch Chain Saws

[PaulfromSconni]

There’s tons of info on this site just use the search function and you will probably find the answer to most of your questions. I’ve done two of the 10 series Macs so far and they are pretty straightforward. I used a two jaw puller to remove the flywheel and the clutch nut is left hand thread. I sealed the crankcase with MOTO seal. Some gaskets I cut myself others I sourced online. Here’s a service manual to get you started. But I must warn you.... once you go down this road more and more yellow and black saws will start showing up! Have fun!
https://www.mediafire.com/file/w4rk7019mhk7md6/McCulloch_-_Shop_Manual_10_Series_63084.pdf/file

Thanks, my dad still has a 10-10 laying around, but I cant recall which one it is. I know for sure its not a promac like this one. Better win one battle before I start "collecting"

 

[Goinwheelin]

The manual I shared is for the older 10 series you may want to stop by the Beg For Manuals thread and ask about one for the later model Macs.

 

[heimannm]

Be aware that the RH start saws used a keyed clutch and a RH nut, seems like there may have been some early LH start saws with keyed clutch and RH nut as well...or maybe I am just confused with the large frame saws.

Mark

 

[Goinwheelin]

The 7-10 I went thru was keyed clutch LH start. I think the nut is marked RH though

Edit: the nut isn’t marked.

 

[Todd Loosli]

I wanted to show you the UNI filter foam, it has a course outside, red, and the fine inner, yellow, that makes for a great filter

 

[heimannm]

I just looked at this one in the attic. If you look closely you can see it says 7-10 on it.

My point is that not all clutches have a LH nut so you have to take the vintage of the saw into consideration.
Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I wanted to show you the UNI filter foam, it has a course outside, red, and the fine inner, yellow, that makes for a great filter View attachment 812210

How thick is the yellow layer? I'm wondering if that could be hot glued to some wire mesh and fit under our lids

 

[Todd Loosli]

Mark will you please show the timbers that hold your attic up, they must be big for all the stuff you have up there.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I just looked at this one in the attic. If you look closely you can see it says 7-10 on it.
View attachment 812211
My point is that not all clutches have a LH nut so you have to take the vintage of the saw into consideration.
Mark

Mark will a right hand start stay tight on a non keyed clutch? Eg later crank

 

[Todd Loosli]

Each layer is 8mm or 5/16 for a total of 16mm and 5/8 they are fused together

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Each layer is 8mm or 5/16 for a total of 16mm and 5/8 they are fused together

I think that might work the 8mm should squeeze down around the edges and hopefully seal up.

On the older 60s and early 70s 10 series Todd they have a "domed" filter and are very pricey. I run or will run two of these 1 is ok the other will be saveable just but not forever so diy is starting to look good. 2broke is after 1 or two also.

I have a metal cage to work with but 2broke will need to make that also

Hey Kevin you put an sdc on that 2-10? Does the air box lid fit on? I have to remove the choke on mine

 

[Todd Loosli]

The foam is soft so it should work, you can get different thicknesses of the same thing. Check out the web site.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The foam is soft so it should work, you can get different thicknesses of the same thing. Check out the web site.

Thanks Todd I'll look them up

 

[heimannm]

If the clutch has a left hand nut and no key way, the clutches with a key way will stay tight but you have to be careful when you torque the LH nut as the clutch spider is not anywhere near as strong as those without a key way. To put it another way, the keyed clutch will work on the non-keyed crankshaft but don't tighten the nut excessively or the spider will break.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

If the clutch has a left hand nut and no key way, the clutches with a key way will stay tight but you have to be careful when you torque the LH nut as the clutch spider is not anywhere near as strong as those without a key way. To put it another way, the keyed clutch will work on the non-keyed crankshaft but don't tighten the nut excessively or the spider will break.

Mark

Ok cheers Mark. I'm seriously considering putting my spare 700 engine under the 2-10 covers. If its an issue I could cut a key way with a dremel

 

[heimannm]

That could cause an issue if the 7-10 does not have a key way since the starting torque through the RH starter/clutch will tend to work the LH nut loose.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

That could cause an issue if the 7-10 does not have a key way since the starting torque through the RH starter/clutch will tend to work the LH nut loose.

Mark

Hmm maybe the dremel might be the way then. I can always try it. Theory says the taper should hold it but they put a key in there for a reason

 

[heimannm]

If the clutch was only driving the chain, no key would be required as the reaction torque on the clutch/nut would keep it tight. When you use the clutch to start the engine you are torquing it in the direction that will loosen the nut...

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Also it's a keyed clutch too so can't really give it a little extra jandel on the rattle gun or pop it will go. Still think the dremel will cut a good enough key way

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I wanted to show you the UNI filter foam, it has a course outside, red, and the fine inner, yellow, that makes for a great filter View attachment 812210

Do you have to oil that type?