Sounds good 2brokeWell I built another runner tonight. It was supposed to be a parts saw but it was in too good of shape when I got it so I rounded up the parts to make it run. It is a 2-10DSP so I added another to my 54cc lineup. I swapped it to an SDC carb which unfortunately means I am need of one of those elusive domed air filters. I found d out the hard way the one for the bullfrog does not fit. I may try to fabricate something, we shall see. I am surprised nobody is repoping these as many of these saws as there are around.
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Hey guys! Sorry if I'm derailing a train of thought or anything, but I have my dads old pro mac 10-10 that is starting to give me issues. It stalls out when hot, and upon reading some responses, I'm leaning toward bad crank seal. I rebuilt the carb, replaced fuel\air filter, fuel line, spark plug. It came with a 16" bar which I have replaced with an 18". I havent done a compression or pressure test as I haven't read up on how to do that. Would I b safe to assume its a crank seal? Regardless of problem, is eBay my only hope on parts for this saw?? Thanks again!
Indeed.
" Imaginary guitar notes exist only in the imagination of the imaginer." --Frank Zappa
So on another subject with pics, does this look like the 69772 10 series tank spacer for the bolt that comes up through the oil tank? I'm missing one but this was in an envelope with a few other smalls that came with the new 7-10 cylinder. It's a hard fiber type of material and maybe a 1/16" thick. I would have figured something thicker for leveling the tank to coincide with the intake spacer.
I can appreciate you and others feeling this way as I know it is much harder for someone outside the USA being able to get a saw like this. Heck I don't really live that far away from where is was made.
The important thing to realize that this is a powerhouse saw that was made for cutting big wood. The saw has already seen this kind of use and is holding up very well. I also removed the years of sawdust and gunk that was not helping the saws cooling system and will get some more use out of it. I will even try to line up the parts needed for its next life to pass along for someone else to enjoy it.
A newer plastic saw is not the same as this classic all metal saw. Sure sounds a lot different as well. The saw was made for use and not collecting dust somewhere. Anyone who uses one will feel that very quickly when they feel the raw power of the chain being pulled through the wood. It is something to experience in ones hands rather then talk about it.
Man you are lucky that you have a few to work with. Good for you are a man after my heart.Did someone say 125s at work?
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Ron
It was supposed to be a parts saw but it was in too good of shape when I got it so I rounded up the parts to make it run.
This is a copy/paste from my Mac 10-10 notes hope it helps.Hey guys! Sorry if I'm derailing a train of thought or anything, but I have my dads old pro mac 10-10 that is starting to give me issues. It stalls out when hot, and upon reading some responses, I'm leaning toward bad crank seal. I rebuilt the carb, replaced fuel\air filter, fuel line, spark plug. It came with a 16" bar which I have replaced with an 18". I havent done a compression or pressure test as I haven't read up on how to do that. Would I b safe to assume its a crank seal? Regardless of problem, is eBay my only hope on parts for this saw?? Thanks again!
Thank you, sir.Poge - the washer/spacer looks right, it is not supposed to be any thicker than that. I had that Pro 10-10 Automatic apart this week and it had the same type washer.
I imagine variety has to do with all the competition in that market at the time and the epa trying to ruin life for manufacturing in America.Thank you, sir.
Another question on the DSP valve; I have two different length valves, here. The IPL calls for an 84221 which I can only assume is what came with the saw. It fits like you would think it should. There was also a longer one in the envelope of small parts that came with the new cylinder. I assume it's for a different type of trigger bracket mounting arrangement. I've found several other part numbers for bracket style DSP valves. Kinda curious about why there'd be such a variety among the 70cc saws of the era.
I didn’t know it was bent lol. And the muffler is ok I guess now that I have the deflector on it, but I don’t have the reed in it. I seen another 850 with the pipes on the muffler and thought it looked cool and wanted something similar.I have the exact same spike on the exact same cover on a sp81, i for one think it looks great on an 850!! I cant tell what is bad bout your muffler?? I do see though a lot of bottom plates of that style on various saws that are all bent up like that?? Makes me wonder why they are like that.
This is a copy/paste from my Mac 10-10 notes hope it helps.
“61618 and 65746 cross to National 471551., SKF 5756, single lip. I have always used the National seal.
110260 and 65747 cross to SKF CR6119, CR 6120 and National 253747. CR6120 is a single lip seal. Same seal common the the 3400 Poulan series and the XL-900 series Homelites.
.... I do see though a lot of bottom plates of that style on various saws that are all bent up like that?? Makes me wonder why they are like that.
I’m not sure on that. Even though the part number differs it should be the same seal. I don’t think it changed much over the years for the 54/57cc sawsThanks for the help. Looking over my ipl, I have seal - oil #67906, and seal oil #110260. I'm assuming the former differs because this a promac not a mac?
Playing around with the 850 last night. I Can’t stand the hideous clutch/muffler covers on the later PM saws so I took the cover off the 55 and drilled it for a spike. The spike is just a prototype, I’ll have one cut on the laser, and the muffler definitely needs attention also. I’ll get a plate cut for that and do a dual port or something. Saw definitely feels lighter now lol
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