McCulloch Chain Saws

[vinnywv]

I'd agree too there not as pretty as the short covers but they do actually work very well.View attachment 811763
My 7-10 got me a goody. Yup still there. Not as nice a Kevin's tattoo

Jethro, i know you love your chainsaws...however you should not be hugging them..lol

 

[Todd Loosli]

I'll add a couple of ouch to that

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Haha yeah I only reached down to pull a silly little stick out and.. sssssssss lol after that I understood why the muffler cover was added

 

[Assembler]

Haha yeah I only reached down to pull a silly little stick out and.. sssssssss lol after that I understood why the muffler cover was added

I have heard of companies branding there wood. Don't know of people branding there body parts. Ouch.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You forgot your camera.

 

[2broke2ride]

So this swapping air filters from one saw to another is gonna get old real quick lol. I have 4 saws that use the domed filter and I'm short one filter. Has anyone come up with anything? Made a custom filter? I'm thinking about trying to make a frame from stiff wire and covering with felt or foam.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

SKF 6119 is the way to go for the PTO side.

For flywheel side you really need to remove the flywheel and see which combination you have. 67069 fits the 9/16" shaft and has an O.D. of 1-9/16" to match the O.D. of the bearing. The bearing with this seal is a bit narrower.

The other combination (61618) is a smaller O.D. seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. The shaft is still 9/16" but the O.D. of the seal is 1-3/8".





Mark

 

[rwoods]

So this swapping air filters from one saw to another is gonna get old real quick lol. I have 4 saws that use the domed filter and I'm short one filter. Has anyone come up with anything? Made a custom filter? I'm thinking about trying to make a frame from stiff wire and covering with felt or foam.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here are some pictures of the air filter setup on a PM850 as purchased. It would certainly keep the big stuff out. Air box was clean, but I bet that was done before the sale. Not recommending this, just showing someone's creativity.






Ron

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Here are some pictures of the air filter setup on a PM850 as purchased. It would certainly keep the big stuff out. Air box was clean, but I bet that was done before the sale. Not recommending this, just showing someone's creativity.

View attachment 811883View attachment 811884


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Ron

Good effort on the fuel line

 

[2broke2ride]

Here are some pictures of the air filter setup on a PM850 as purchased. It would certainly keep the big stuff out. Air box was clean, but I bet that was done before the sale. Not recommending this, just showing someone's creativity.

View attachment 811883View attachment 811884


View attachment 811885View attachment 811886

Ron

Wow!!!! On a saw that the right air filter costs like $10 lol

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[Maintenance supervisor]

I put scientific mico stainless screen inside a stihl filter that lost all it frock.

 

[Joab]

So this swapping air filters from one saw to another is gonna get old real quick lol. I have 4 saws that use the domed filter and I'm short one filter. Has anyone come up with anything? Made a custom filter? I'm thinking about trying to make a frame from stiff wire and covering with felt or foam.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

My Pioneer P42 (HP) originally came to me with a cartridge filter (that was busted) and I swapped it over to the P42 Western style air filter that's just a closed airbox with a oiled foam filter over the top, under the cover -- and really it works better than any other filter I've used.

My Pro Mac 700 came to me with a piece of cloth clamped underneath the cover as the air filter -- I think it was a piece of a t-shirt. Naturally I replaced it with the regular flocked-screen filter, but based on my observation of how well it works on my P42 and the design innovations of the previous owner, I've always figured that if Mccculloch filters got scarce I could just get one of those Unifilter foam sheets. I think it's as simple as fit it to the back of the fuel tank, poke a hole for the screw, clamp it down and trim the excess -- I'm not even sure you'd need any stiffening frame underneath as long as you're carefully when you're clamping it down.

I'm not sure that'd work on all Mcculloch saws -- but it would for some at least.

Once upon a time I also experimented with making felt filters to replace a domed style filter (for a P28) -- what actually worked not too bad was creating a form in the shape that I wanted, take a piece of polyester craft felt and soak it for a minute in polyurethane (i.e. for wood), ring it out thoroughly and then clamp it over the form and let it dry. You need some kind of release agent on your form so that it doesn't stick. I think I used EVA craft foam to make a compressible gasket around the edge. In any event, that actually worked reasonably well but then I found a source for a new proper P28 filter. And subsequently the foam filter idea occurred to me -- and for any saw with a reasonably simple airbox, it's a better filter for a whole lot less work . . . That's the theory anyway -- I haven't had to prove it yet.

 

[Todd Loosli]

That uni filter foam is on Ebay and you can get all kinds of sizes. I used some of it for the filter for Green Ripper, the red foam

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

That uni filter foam is on Ebay and you can get all kinds of sizes. I used some of it for the filter for Green Ripper, the red foamView attachment 811995

Can't wait to see that thing going when the wood fun begins

 

[vizette]

Finally got back to my 7-10 project, thanks to Bob hookin' me up with a bottom end... the one that came on it (ebay saw) had a crack at the bar stud up through the front of the case, and the handle mount was cracked on the bottom. Not to mention someone had been in there before and siliconed the crankcase bolt heads (and no washers), and that bottom was just corroded and grungy anyway. Silicon on the tank gasket too - I have to say, I like the sawzilla replacement, just ordered two more! That tank from Bob is probably the nicest part of the saw now LOL

Fuel line "mod" hehe. Most of it was OK, but the ribbed (for the saws pleasure) part that goes over the barb was leaking, so I pulled the crazy barb and installed a normal one, clipped the end of the line, and we're off and running! Also ready to switch to tygon now when this one rots out.

What else... chip installed where condenser was. Left the points in case I want/need to switch back. New rings, new seals, finally got it to start and run! New rings were about .5mm thicker than the ones that came off. At first I was like wow... and then put into perspective the age of this and that it has definitely not had an easy life. Coil slides back and forth on the laminate a good 1/4", kinda don't like that... but doesn't touch the mag so, we'll see how that goes.

Question on new rings though; I know they have to seat/break in. Is 120psi about what I should expect right now? Assuming it'll come up once everything gets situated? It's only run for about 10 minutes (if that) - carb has some issues so I need to go through it thoroughly...

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Finally got back to my 7-10 project, thanks to Bob hookin' me up with a bottom end... the one that came on it (ebay saw) had a crack at the bar stud up through the front of the case, and the handle mount was cracked on the bottom. Not to mention someone had been in there before and siliconed the crankcase bolt heads (and no washers), and that bottom was just corroded and grungy anyway. Silicon on the tank gasket too - I have to say, I like the sawzilla replacement, just ordered two more! That tank from Bob is probably the nicest part of the saw now LOL

Fuel line "mod" hehe. Most of it was OK, but the ribbed (for the saws pleasure) part that goes over the barb was leaking, so I pulled the crazy barb and installed a normal one, clipped the end of the line, and we're off and running! Also ready to switch to tygon now when this one rots out.

What else... chip installed where condenser was. Left the points in case I want/need to switch back. New rings, new seals, finally got it to start and run! New rings were about .5mm thicker than the ones that came off. At first I was like wow... and then put into perspective the age of this and that it has definitely not had an easy life. Coil slides back and forth on the laminate a good 1/4", kinda don't like that... but doesn't touch the mag so, we'll see how that goes.

Question on new rings though; I know they have to seat/break in. Is 120psi about what I should expect right now? Assuming it'll come up once everything gets situated? It's only run for about 10 minutes (if that) - carb has some issues so I need to go through it thoroughly...

View attachment 811998View attachment 812000View attachment 811999View attachment 812005View attachment 812001View attachment 812002

I had a coil that was loose on the laminate, I used gorilla glue gel on it . Still working.

 

[PaulfromSconni]

SKF 6119 is the way to go for the PTO side.

For flywheel side you really need to remove the flywheel and see which combination you have. 67069 fits the 9/16" shaft and has an O.D. of 1-9/16" to match the O.D. of the bearing. The bearing with this seal is a bit narrower.

The other combination (61618) is a smaller O.D. seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. The shaft is still 9/16" but the O.D. of the seal is 1-3/8".

View attachment 811879

View attachment 811880

Mark

Thanks for the pics! I would like to accomplish this without tearing the whole saw apart, but im wondering if I'm going thru all this work, if I should think about replacing the bearings while I'm in there. If I do have to do a complete teardown, what tips and tricks should I keep in mind? I realize I cant just tear apart and rebuild without certain steps (grease/oil/gaskets/mic'd specs)

 

[vizette]

I had a coil that was loose on the laminate, I used gorilla glue gel on it . Still working.

Good to know, thanks! I was debating JB Weld, but I might go this route instead.

 

[Goinwheelin]

Thanks for the pics! I would like to accomplish this without tearing the whole saw apart, but im wondering if I'm going thru all this work, if I should think about replacing the bearings while I'm in there. If I do have to do a complete teardown, what tips and tricks should I keep in mind? I realize I cant just tear apart and rebuild without certain steps (grease/oil/gaskets/mic'd specs)

There’s tons of info on this site just use the search function and you will probably find the answer to most of your questions. I’ve done two of the 10 series Macs so far and they are pretty straightforward. I used a two jaw puller to remove the flywheel and the clutch nut is left hand thread. I sealed the crankcase with MOTO seal. Some gaskets I cut myself others I sourced online. Here’s a service manual to get you started. But I must warn you.... once you go down this road more and more yellow and black saws will start showing up! Have fun!
https://www.mediafire.com/file/w4rk7019mhk7md6/McCulloch_-_Shop_Manual_10_Series_63084.pdf/file

 

[Goinwheelin]

@vizette my 7-10 was about the same on compression when I finished it, and it had a rough life before I went thru it. After a few tanks it blew 135 so I wouldn’t be too concerned. I set the carb rich and kept the rpms down unless it was in the wood.