McCulloch Chain Saws

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turtle561 said:
knockbill- it will fit right in there. the HL is about 1/8" shorter front to back. in my case i just rebent the primer linkage and was good to go. i did have to flip the choke shaft & lever from left to right to get the push of the thumb to close the choke.
Click to expand...

thanks again,,,
what number hl did you use? seems some of them have governors? also , do teh hi & lo adjusting screws fit thru teh same rubber grommet that the flatback uses?
i was looking at carbs on some of teh kart sites, and it looks like those guys modify them to run on alcohol, don't think i want one of them!!
i appreciate teh input, keep it coming....
 
Ecc - the air vane governor can be adjusted to have little impact on the operation of the saw. While it is possible to remove/defeat it all together, it is not necessary to do that in order to get very good performance from the saw.

kb - there are different grommets, the screw holes on the McCulloch are rather close together, while the adjuster screw holes on the Tillotson are much further apart.

Jeff - the McCulloch carburetors are not all that bad, just a bit different from the Tillotson. I have several saws with the flat backs that start and run very well. If you make it down in November we can put on a little demo...

Mark
 
[QUOTE

kb - there are different grommets, the screw holes on the McCulloch are rather close together, while the adjuster screw holes on the Tillotson are much further apart.


Mark[/QUOTE]

thanks for the info,,,,
i guess i could use the same grommet by plugging one hole and punching another...
i would use the flatback, if i can find i diaphram cheap enough,,, kits seem to be <$10.00 for the tillys, tho....
 
kb - kits with diaphragms and gaskets for the McCulloch carburetors are available from cheapchainsawparts on e-bay for around $28. They are more expensive than parts for a Tillotson but then you don't have to try and make something else work, assuming your primer is O.K. If you have to replace the primer (normally at least $25 if you can find one) and possibly the o-rings and seat for the primer check valve (use the seat from a Tillotson HL metering valve set up). Other parts if needed can indeed make a rebuild more expensive than you may want to go for an old work horse.

Even if the primer is shot, it is easy enought to start the saw by giving it a little sip of fuel directly down the carburetor. For years (before I knew any better) that was the way we started the old 200 and 300 McCulloch saws that I used and they were equipped with the Tillotson HL carburetors.

Mark
 
heimannm said:
kb - kits with diaphragms and gaskets for the McCulloch carburetors are available from cheapchainsawparts on e-bay for around $28. They are more expensive than parts for a Tillotson but then you don't have to try and make something else work, assuming your primer is O.K. If you have to replace the primer (normally at least $25 if you can find one) and possibly the o-rings and seat for the primer check valve (use the seat from a Tillotson HL metering valve set up). Other parts if needed can indeed make a rebuild more expensive than you may want to go for an old work horse.

Even if the primer is shot, it is easy enought to start the saw by giving it a little sip of fuel directly down the carburetor. For years (before I knew any better) that was the way we started the old 200 and 300 McCulloch saws that I used and they were equipped with the Tillotson HL carburetors.

Mark
Click to expand...

thanks again,,,
i agree with what you said,, i replaced teh o rings that go between teh primer and teh carb, but the primer doesn't seem to be getting fuel to teh engine,,, are there other rubber parts in the primer taht need to be replaced?
i mention in my post in the general chainsaw forums, that this saw is in very good condition, seems hardly used, so i don't really want to "mess it up"... if i can get it running with the original carb, i will do that,,, other wise, i will offer to trade it for a homelite or poulan in the same size/shape, as i have more experience with them...
thanks again for your reply........
 
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boda65 said:
Give it a try. Posts about run of the mill saws don't draw much attention.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=2422966&postcount=3088

Can't blame us, who wants to talk about their Pinto when we're driving Mustangs and Lincolns? But if you're having problems, there's a lot of knowledgeable and helpful people here. Don't hesitate to post.
Click to expand...

No trouble with the saw, just a recent score (Titan50) that I'm excited about. The saws is like new!
If this thread loses some of it's momentum I'll post up some pics and info.
Jim
 
heimannm said:
Jeff - the McCulloch carburetors are not all that bad, just a bit different from the Tillotson. I have several saws with the flat backs that start and run very well. If you make it down in November we can put on a little demo...

Mark
Click to expand...

Planning on it. Mac carbs aren't that complicated if you up to arm pits in them all the time. Sometimes, not for long, I wish I was, as long as they are not Mini Macs. I will be bringing you a couple of them as well, its up to you to hide them from the firearms target posse.
Jeff
 
chainsawwhisperer said:
No trouble with the saw, just a recent score (Titan50) that I'm excited about. The saws is like new!
If this thread loses some of it's momentum I'll post up some pics and info.
Jim
Click to expand...

Macs are all about momentum, and the creation, conservation, and duration thereof. Post em!
 
heimannm said:
Ecc - the air vane governor can be adjusted to have little impact on the operation of the saw. While it is possible to remove/defeat it all together, it is not necessary to do that in order to get very good performance from the saw.


Mark
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. Thanks Mark. Been putting it off, but I'm going to dive into the diaphragm chamber on the 77 this weekend unless something crazy comes up again. Wish me luck............as I have to take almost half the saw apart to get to everything. Probably will have to cut a few gaskets for it just to put it back together too. Besides being really busy every weekend, I've also been avoiding diving into it because I don't wanna mess something up. It's like no saw I've ever worked on...:dizzy:
 
Jim - speaking of which, any new photo's of the Ford GT AKA PM 800 in action?

kb - check the rubber seat in the primer, there should be a spring and a little steel ball that with the rubber seat form a check valve for the primer circuit. I think the parts are laid out pretty plainly in the McCulloch carburetor thread. The primer itself is not serviceable and NOS units will cost $25 or so if you can find one.

csw - I recently picked up a Titan 57. I had to take it down to replace all of the fuel and oil lines but since I was doing this on my own time I didn't think it was such a bad job. I haven't gotten to put it into any wood yet but is does seem to accelerate very quickly. I will be interested to see how it compares side by side with one of my Jonsered 621's (56 cc saws).

ecc - Ike Hoff posted a very interesting message about steeping parts in a mixture of warm water and lemon juice to soften and free up tough old stuck diaphragms. He says he never has to replace stiff old diaphragms if this trick is applied.

Mark
 
I thought I'd share a 10-10 kill from 30 years ago. A lightning stuck OG RD with a hot spot about 200 feet up, I used a brother modded 10-10 with a 28" bar.

trip010.jpg


trip009.jpg
 
heimannm said:
csw - I recently picked up a Titan 57. I had to take it down to replace all of the fuel and oil lines but since I was doing this on my own time I didn't think it was such a bad job. I haven't gotten to put it into any wood yet but is does seem to accelerate very quickly. I will be interested to see how it compares side by side with one of my Jonsered 621's (56 cc saws).

Mark
Click to expand...

My father has had a Titan 70 since the late 80's.
I recently got him a Titan 40 for the small stuff, he had been using an XL12.
This '50' will be given to him to round out his fleet.

Randy great pictures as usual!
Jim
 
[QUOTE

kb - check the rubber seat in the primer, there should be a spring and a little steel ball that with the rubber seat form a check valve for the primer circuit. I think the parts are laid out pretty plainly in the McCulloch carburetor thread. The primer itself is not serviceable and NOS units will cost $25 or so if you can find one.

ecc - Ike Hoff posted a very interesting message about steeping parts in a mixture of warm water and lemon juice to soften and free up tough old stuck diaphragms. He says he never has to replace stiff old diaphragms if this trick is applied.

Mark[/QUOTE]

mark,
i disassembled teh rubber seat, spring and ball in teh primer, and cleaned tehm before i replaced teh o rings,,,
how is teh primer made? is it just a metal piston in a metal sleeve? if so, maybe i can cut a groove around teh piston part on my jewelers lathe, and fit a small o ring to allow it to work again,,,

i may try teh idea about steeping teh diaphram in lemon juice/warm water... nothing to lose at this point... i did soak it in brake fluid, and than in fuel mix, and it got a lot more plyable, maybe i can get it to work...
thanks for the replys.....
 
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