The old McCulloch large frame saws used 3/8" bar studs. There are a few modern saw bars with 10 mm bar studs that will fit, you might even get the adjuster holes to line up, but will probably have to do something different with the oiler. I ended up drilling 3 or 4 small holes through the bottom of the bar groove to get one to put oil on the chain but that was the easiest way for me to fit a saw with a 3/8 chain and 18" sprocket nose bar.
Bars that fit the old McCullochs come up frequently on e-bay and most will be hard nose bars so you can run any pitch chain you want. Most will be .058 gauge, some will be .063, and a very few will be .050". Shorter bars (18-20") usually don't demand a big price.
You won't find much NOS .404 pin tail chain around, probably not worth looking for anyway unless you really want the make the saw very original again. Any .404 chain will work, and if you have a solid nose bar any 3/8" chain will work as well provided you use the right sprocket. Most of the clutch drums for the old McCullochs had a 7 tooth .404 spur type sprocket but you can find drums with rim sprocket splines as well. cheapchainsaw parts often has good used ones, and I have purchased new ones from Little Red Barn in VA, check to make sure they are in stock though as one order took around 9 months to be filled when they were waiting on the boat to arrive, must have really been the slow boat from China.
.404 chain cuts a bigger kerf so will likely be a bit slower in the cut than 3/8 on a saw like yours. On the other hand, that saw is a torque monster compared to modern 80 cc saws so you might have better life from the chain using .404. 3/8 will stretch more due to more rivets and the lighter tie straps may not hold up as well, but you would have to do a lot of very heavy cutting to ever appreciate much difference.
I have a few big old saws set up with 3/8 chain just because I could, the saws that I use regularly however are all equipped with .404 because I am pretty hard on chains and the .404 seem to hold up better. Most of the gear drives have 1/2", and a couple even have 9/16" since that's what they came with.
A couple more points, McCulloch bars from just about every saw from the 3-25 through the SP125's will interchange. Now, sometimes the older direct drive saws had a special adjuster screw with an oversize head that fit a slot/scallop milled into the bar and you must use that type bar on those saws. In general though, the bars would also have the holes for the more conventional tensioner located in the clutch cover so they would work on most any saw.
Same goes for the clutch drums, drums are the same for the 200/300/400/500/700 and the large frame CP and SP models. It seems to me that while scrounging around lately I did notice some of the older saws like the 1-40's and 1-50, perhaps the 44 Series and 1-70's as well had a larger diameter crank shaft at the clutch. I don't have any records on the computer on which is which though, and won't be home again until next week to look into it any further.
Mark
Bars that fit the old McCullochs come up frequently on e-bay and most will be hard nose bars so you can run any pitch chain you want. Most will be .058 gauge, some will be .063, and a very few will be .050". Shorter bars (18-20") usually don't demand a big price.
You won't find much NOS .404 pin tail chain around, probably not worth looking for anyway unless you really want the make the saw very original again. Any .404 chain will work, and if you have a solid nose bar any 3/8" chain will work as well provided you use the right sprocket. Most of the clutch drums for the old McCullochs had a 7 tooth .404 spur type sprocket but you can find drums with rim sprocket splines as well. cheapchainsaw parts often has good used ones, and I have purchased new ones from Little Red Barn in VA, check to make sure they are in stock though as one order took around 9 months to be filled when they were waiting on the boat to arrive, must have really been the slow boat from China.
.404 chain cuts a bigger kerf so will likely be a bit slower in the cut than 3/8 on a saw like yours. On the other hand, that saw is a torque monster compared to modern 80 cc saws so you might have better life from the chain using .404. 3/8 will stretch more due to more rivets and the lighter tie straps may not hold up as well, but you would have to do a lot of very heavy cutting to ever appreciate much difference.
I have a few big old saws set up with 3/8 chain just because I could, the saws that I use regularly however are all equipped with .404 because I am pretty hard on chains and the .404 seem to hold up better. Most of the gear drives have 1/2", and a couple even have 9/16" since that's what they came with.
A couple more points, McCulloch bars from just about every saw from the 3-25 through the SP125's will interchange. Now, sometimes the older direct drive saws had a special adjuster screw with an oversize head that fit a slot/scallop milled into the bar and you must use that type bar on those saws. In general though, the bars would also have the holes for the more conventional tensioner located in the clutch cover so they would work on most any saw.
Same goes for the clutch drums, drums are the same for the 200/300/400/500/700 and the large frame CP and SP models. It seems to me that while scrounging around lately I did notice some of the older saws like the 1-40's and 1-50, perhaps the 44 Series and 1-70's as well had a larger diameter crank shaft at the clutch. I don't have any records on the computer on which is which though, and won't be home again until next week to look into it any further.
Mark
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