Is the air filter bracket on a 125 aluminum or pot metal? Saw slid off a log today at the wood lot landing the air filter cover on concrete.
Little duct tape to keep going.
Ron
Little duct tape to keep going.
Ron
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I tought the pile of old macs might interest someone, close to the listing. You could always race mod the mower too and take it to a tractor pull!
I'm actually considering going up there to pick this up (guesstimate 4hr trip one way though) - was going to send a PM to say thanks for the heads up.
I can fix and sell the mowers to buy more saws/parts/"parts saws", because... there's something wrong with me.
I say roll with the duct tape! Not sure if this will help or not, but I just patched up an aluminum handle on an XL-12 with one of those alumi-weld rods that you use with a propane/mapp torch. I cleaned the F**K out of it first, wire wheel, brake cleaner, etc. but so far I'm shocked at how well it did. I overfilled and filed back down and was having a hard time telling what was original and what was fill rod. Hard to say if it will last since it's technically a braze, but worth a shot if you don't come up with anything else. Gotta buy a TIG welder one of these days...
If the metal is thick enough, you could drill small holes in each side (in the break) and put small screws in, cut the heads off, and JB Weld it together. I did this with a magneto fin I busted off a 10-10. Obviously the lid will see more torque than the fin, but again, might be worth a shot if you got nothin' else.
In other words; hold the pieces together where they belong, score a couple lines for reference, and drill holes into them, from the break into the piece. Thread tiny screws in one side leaving some sticking out, and on the other side make the holes slightly larger and pack them with JB Weld using a piece of wire or toothpick, as well as putting a small amount on the broken surfaces. Cut the heads off the screws so they're just studs, put the pieces together with some light clamping and leave it alone for a couple days. The screws help reinforce the joint, like rebar. Sorta.
Mr. Woods, i have one of those laying in my parts. If youre interested please let me know.
I'm actually considering going up there to pick this up (guesstimate 4hr trip one way though) - was going to send a PM to say thanks for the heads up.
I can fix and sell the mowers to buy more saws/parts/"parts saws", because... there's something wrong with me.
I say roll with the duct tape! Not sure if this will help or not, but I just patched up an aluminum handle on an XL-12 with one of those alumi-weld rods that you use with a propane/mapp torch. I cleaned the F**K out of it first, wire wheel, brake cleaner, etc. but so far I'm shocked at how well it did. I overfilled and filed back down and was having a hard time telling what was original and what was fill rod. Hard to say if it will last since it's technically a braze, but worth a shot if you don't come up with anything else. Gotta buy a TIG welder one of these days...
If the metal is thick enough, you could drill small holes in each side (in the break) and put small screws in, cut the heads off, and JB Weld it together. I did this with a magneto fin I busted off a 10-10. Obviously the lid will see more torque than the fin, but again, might be worth a shot if you got nothin' else.
In other words; hold the pieces together where they belong, score a couple lines for reference, and drill holes into them, from the break into the piece. Thread tiny screws in one side leaving some sticking out, and on the other side make the holes slightly larger and pack them with JB Weld using a piece of wire or toothpick, as well as putting a small amount on the broken surfaces. Cut the heads off the screws so they're just studs, put the pieces together with some light clamping and leave it alone for a couple days. The screws help reinforce the joint, like rebar. Sorta.
I was going to try the low temp rod, but am curious of the part’s composition.
Ron
I used something similar to engineers scribe with the sharp point reduced to a ~ 0.020" rad. I did try to photo it but focus was poor. Carb back together now, and on the saw. Bit late to start it up - sensitive neighbours - well neighbours some houses away who seem to differ about the wonderful note of the classic two stroke engine. The joy of living in suburbia. I do cutting and processing at work - no one I am concerned to annoy, and space for the storage and mess.
Roland
Found bit of time to play with the Pro Mac 700 "hotrod" project.
If you recall this is a duplicate saw to a very nice PM 700 I already have. The PM 700 in my experience is all about torque. I don't do much felling, but when I do, the 700 is the weapon of choice, its easy to use and forgiving to power out of the onset of an unexpected pinch etc. I don't claim to be a pro!
The second saw I intend to sacrifice some torque for higher RPM BHP. Whist the history of 70 cc 10 series goes back well ( I think ) before the 10-10S and the PM555 , the 700 has similar port timing, same carb, same exhaust etc, so the overbore in effect gives it the characteristic of not much more BHP than is 57 cc little brother, but more low speed torque. I fully understand that Mcculloch were on the job with saw design, and I tamper with it at my peril. However with that in mind and all of mac's R&D aside, here is my plan!
I have tidied up the exhaust. I hoped not to disturb the factory chrome on the top of exhaust port bevel, but ended up reshaping the top edge, though timing remains the same. We have a little more area here now.
Transfers un touched, Experience with other saws encourages me to leave where it is or risk high fuel consumption.
Intake is a conundrum. Gone for broke with opening at 70 BTBC so 140' of open time. The intake tract standard is short and a series of step changes. Now reshaped to try and make effective use of the full width of the port. Hard, as flow is going to want to lift off the sharp turn from carb bore to port face.The short intake and this extra timing may make unacceptable amount of spit back. Spit back will mean not only fuel reversal, but the oil in the mix too. Fuel will evaporate and go back as part of combustion - but the oil will condense nicely but uselessly in the air box. A longer intake - noticing this is a feature on modern saws, of which 140' duration would be regarded as short - may be of benefit here.
No pictures for today - maybe tomorrow if I find time.
I am thinking about exhaust. I have stated earlier I think the 10 series job is short on performance if not noise. Tight turn out the of the port and restriction around hold down bolts and then reduction at the entry to the can / reed valve flap thing which appears in various styles. At the lengths involved with saws I am sure we are well out of the range of able to use an a returned negative pressure pulse - motorcycle style - in effect what we have and need is a style similar to the ejector stub as per RR Merlin of Spitfire fame etc - which gets gas away - with no good or bad returned pulses to help or hinder volumetric efficiency. Maybe some inertia effects exist in outlet pipes some modern saw designs, I am not sure but if so - worth having.
Roland.
The one thing I don't like about the mufflers is that it can generate a lot of heat up through the motor , I'll be looking into silcone dip and or header wrap for some of my ten series. The sharp (sqare) 90° turn on that muffler can't possibly help flow but I can certainly tell a difference between a 10-10 and most 54cc saws as far as power , even most modern saws require a feather lite touch or they bogg so something is better?
McCulloch 81, 800, 805, 850, DE 80, 8200 pull rope.... what size in mm is it? Thanks.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HSDAA8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titleThis is was I use. Works good doesn't break on me.
Thank you!
It’s worth a try. All you can do is make it worse. As I said I have a spare and you have spare saws. One way or the other you have a way of cutting.
Brian
Looks like you could flip a 10-10 spit back cover around backwards and make it work ?
The way you describe the 57 vs 700 is exactly what it feels like at the handle. If kept singing the 57 cuts every bit or if not faster than the 70s. The 57 feels sporty and kinda highly strung. The 70s dont bog as easy and pull harder in bigger wood but yeah for the extra cc it's not equal in gain for sure.
I'm excited to see what you come up with. Defintly keen to have a go myself. I'd like to atleast be able to get close to the open port 7-10.
That 57 in a light chassis is a very special Mac of mine and will not go cutting without it. Highly suggest anyone to build 1 if they can. Can really wind up the tune on it too. It's a little animal
Hi guys,I've got a 3216 that I got in the truckload of saws back a couple of months ago.This saw & the other 47 I got only cost me about $4.33 ea.,so I didn't mind putting a few bucks into it.All it needed was a new ignition module which I got from Bob J.This saw & all the other plastic ones from Jenn Feng are a real PITA to work on.After cussing at it for about an hr.I found that I had the operator's presence lever in upside down which prevented it from going back together by the handle.After I figured that out it went right together.
The problem I'm having is with the primer bulb & the line(s) that go to it.The IPL which covers about 20 or more different models,only shows one fuel line coming from the carb to the primer bulb.On the 3816 there were 2 lines coming from the primer bulb,one went to the carb to supply the pumped fuel,the other line went back to the tank to deliver the excess fuel.
The primer bulb on the 3216 has 2 barbs on it for fuel lines,but there's no hole going into the tank to deliver the excess fuel.The saw runs like a champ as long as I pinched off the line that was not hooked onto the primer bulb.If I let the line go it'd start the engine racing at hi revs because it was sucking air,not good.The saw won't start when it's cold with just the choke,it needs to have fuel pumped into the carb via the primer bulb.
The problem I'm having is with the primer bulb & the line(s) that go to it.The IPL which covers about 20 or more different models,only shows one fuel line coming from the carb to the primer bulb.On the 3816 there were 2 lines coming from the primer bulb,one went to the carb to supply the pumped fuel,the other line went back to the tank to deliver the excess fuel.
The primer bulb on the 3216 has 2 barbs on it for fuel lines,but there's no hole going into the tank to deliver the excess fuel.The saw runs like a champ as long as I pinched off the line that was not hooked onto the primer bulb.If I let the line go it'd start the engine racing at hi revs because it was sucking air,not good.The saw won't start when it's cold with just the choke,it needs to have fuel pumped into the carb via the primer bulb.
I've been thinking of going through my 10-10's & pulling one out that needs a new engine & getting a 57cc.short block from Bob J.& installing it.I have a 10-10 in mind that I was going to put a rergular 10-10 54cc short block into,but I can hold onto the 54cc short block for a later date.That was supposed to have been my winter project last yr.,but the back surgery kinda messed up my plans.
Jethro,
You pick up on exactly on the point. I certainly am not in the cutting business, but get sufficient trigger time on my collection to get to know their individual traits. The 10-10S / 555 / 57 cc jobs as you say stock is impressive, but I have already done to a 555, what I intend to with the 700 and now its a frenzied little animal which goes like the absolute clappers and seems it will pull anything, without loss on the bottom end torque either. Interestingly is how sharp this thing sounds now too, and its hard to put it down - a favourite for much of my firewood cutting which is blocking up into burnable lumps the stuff local tree firms even don't want - what in the butchery trade would politely be called the bum holes and eyelids.
Weight is annoying but not an any way a burden, but a 555 is same frame ,size and weight as a 700, so naturally some would say what is the point of the smaller saw. What you have done putting the 57cc block into an early 10 series case must indeed be very special. I like my tweaked up Danarm 55 ( McCulloch 1-10 clone ) for the same reason, light and nimble so again it has its place. If I come across a spare 57 cc block then I will put one on the light Danarm 55 frame for even more goodness.
Mean time I want to make 700 number 2 worth its place in my little firewood world.
Roland.
It's well worth it Ed if you can source an engine easily.
Man that's awesome a ported 57 wicked wicked stuff indeed.
So you haven't touched the transfers?
This is exciting stuff porting these things and Ron's crazy saw too.
Those older 10 series are seriously a whole kg lighter than the pm era saws I have a list somewhere with all the weights of individual 10 series parts. Basically there is weight hidden in every casting. Never weighed engines either but the 57s are chrome so must be a touch lighter than the cast bore.
Another very light 1 is the 2-10 that would be another cool candidate for a later donkey. I have a spare 700 engine....
Jethro,
I am wary of doing much to these transfers for now. In my experience on other projects, its easy to make fuel consumption go crazy, which I reason is down to critical detail of direction as well as more general timing detail. As this is a first stab at the 700 - easy to revisit transfers if needed.
Roland.
Now you guys have me thinking. I have this spare 10-10s parts saw with what looks like a good complete block with good compression. What chassis parts will give me the lightest set up? Maybe my 1-10 or 2-10 would be a good choice to canabilize?
