McCulloch Chain Saws

[Aaron Rybicki]

Hello everyone. I got two things I want to share.

I got the Super Pro 125C just about sorted out. Flywheel eventually came off and I was able to go back in and re-gap the points. They were almost near perfect when I had last set them. Once everything got slapped back together, it ran. But the issue I've been having is that if you're not pulling the pull rope like you're pulling for your life, (I don't mean repetitively but with sheer brute force), it will pop once and yank the rope out of your hands by popping the decomp mid-pull. When it does run, it smokes a decent amount and spits small amounts of black fuel/oil mix out when revving it. I believe my issue is not timing advance, but oil being pulled into the cylinder from the oil tank and raising the compression when I go to start it. Does that sound like that would be a reasonable assumption given all the symptoms?

On my SP81E I have, I could depress the manual oiler button and it would pump out oil no problem - as long as the saw was not running. As soon as the saw was running, it was literally impossible to depress the manual oiler button. It was solid. It would also not automatically oil. I tore into the auto oiler and gave it a good cleaning. The little outlet valve ball? (According to IPL.. - Check valve maybe?) was stuck in place. I was able to free it up and clean it so it could move around. I also noticed the small metal rod that was connected to the little disc that makes up the piston assembly were separated. I swapped out the piston assembly for a spare out of a Parts 10-10 that was all one assembly. I put everything back together and just like that, it now oils automatically and I can depress the manual oiler button while running! Happy Camper over here. Just gotta finish figuring out the 125er..

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Hello everyone. I got two things I want to share.

I got the Super Pro 125C just about sorted out. Flywheel eventually came off and I was able to go back in and re-gap the points. They were almost near perfect when I had last set them. Once everything got slapped back together, it ran. But the issue I've been having is that if you're not pulling the pull rope like you're pulling for your life, (I don't mean repetitively but with sheer brute force), it will pop once and yank the rope out of your hands by popping the decomp mid-pull. When it does run, it smokes a decent amount and spits small amounts of black fuel/oil mix out when revving it. I believe my issue is not timing advance, but oil being pulled into the cylinder from the oil tank and raising the compression when I go to start it. Does that sound like that would be a reasonable assumption given all the symptoms?

On my SP81E I have, I could depress the manual oiler button and it would pump out oil no problem - as long as the saw was not running. As soon as the saw was running, it was literally impossible to depress the manual oiler button. It was solid. It would also not automatically oil. I tore into the auto oiler and gave it a good cleaning. The little outlet valve ball? (According to IPL.. - Check valve maybe?) was stuck in place. I was able to free it up and clean it so it could move around. I also noticed the small metal rod that was connected to the little disc that makes up the piston assembly were separated. I swapped out the piston assembly for a spare out of a Parts 10-10 that was all one assembly. I put everything back together and just like that, it now oils automatically and I can depress the manual oiler button while running! Happy Camper over here. Just gotta finish figuring out the 125er..

Sounds reasonable to me about the 125 oiler but on a saw that big any snap back can hurt you.
I store my 088 with the decomp button pusher in now ,in a hot room fuel will seep a little bit into the cylinder and whamo ! Tear your fingers off. Oilers leaking usually just produce a lot of smoke not really excessive fuel? So could be to rich also.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

What's the thinking on spikes on the left side Vs right side Vs both (depending on what each model allows for)?

I like both on a big felling saw ( 90cc) ,but I'm pretty use to my one on the macs and don't have issues.

 

[heimannm]

Call me a sick man, today I decided to work on a couple of Mini Mac 6 saws. For those that don't know, the Mini Mac 6 was the first in the series and does not have the removeable starter so getting them apart and back together can be a problem. The first one was really old and does not have the notch or slot in the housing for the fuel line fitting as these older saws had a different end to plug in to the fuel tank.


Since I had to replace the fuel line and I didn't have one of the originals I had to use the later version with the tab, but rotate the tab up rather than down and rely on the fuel line fitting snug in the housing to hold it as the saw was reassembled. There was also a problem with the spark plug wire (insulation broken off at the coil) so I had to remove the wire and install a new one. To make this a bit easier, I bought some hollow, left hand bits designed to be used as screw extractors that work very well to get the remnants of the plug wire out of the socket.



Getting everything aligned and back together took a while but I finally got it, except the oil line did not hit the socket...in the end we had one down and one to go. The second one came apart easily and had the notch for the more modern fuel line fitting in the housing which is a good thing as the fuel line on this one has shrunk and no longer seals in the tank. I have it all cleaned up and will try to get it back together tomorrow evening or Wednesday.





Mark

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

Sounds reasonable to me about the 125 oiler but on a saw that big any snap back can hurt you.
I store my 088 with the decomp button pusher in now ,in a hot room fuel will seep a little bit into the cylinder and whamo ! Tear your fingers off. Oilers leaking usually just produce a lot of smoke not really excessive fuel? So could be to rich also.

I guess I’m not really sure how to describe the liquid. It’s thick, very oily and pitch black. Also smells more like oil than gasoline so maybe it’s mostly oil lol.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I guess I’m not really sure how to describe the liquid. It’s thick, very oily and pitch black. Also smells more like oil than gasoline so maybe it’s mostly oil lol.

I don't have a 125 , but its a reed valve isn't it? Because a broken or wore out reed can drown a cylinder in fuel. I've flipped a couple of ones in some saws with good results .

 

[heimannm]

All of the large frame saws are reed valve including the SP105/125. That said, the symptoms you describe do sound to me like bar oil leaking past the impulse automatic oil pump creating the conditions you describe. Bad new is, to service the automatic oil pump you either have to remove the oil tank from the front of the saw or the fuel tank from the top to gain access to the screws that hold the automatic pump in place. It does sound like the gasket(s) or pump itself are leaking.



Mark

 

[Mnmacguy]

Call me a sick man, today I decided to work on a couple of Mini Mac 6 saws. For those that don't know, the Mini Mac 6 was the first in the series and does not have the removeable starter so getting them apart and back together can be a problem. The first one was really old and does not have the notch or slot in the housing for the fuel line fitting as these older saws had a different end to plug in to the fuel tank.
View attachment 843724

Since I had to replace the fuel line and I didn't have one of the originals I had to use the later version with the tab, but rotate the tab up rather than down and rely on the fuel line fitting snug in the housing to hold it as the saw was reassembled. There was also a problem with the spark plug wire (insulation broken off at the coil) so I had to remove the wire and install a new one. To make this a bit easier, I bought some hollow, left hand bits designed to be used as screw extractors that work very well to get the remnants of the plug wire out of the socket.

View attachment 843725

Getting everything aligned and back together took a while but I finally got it, except the oil line did not hit the socket...in the end we had one down and one to go. The second one came apart easily and had the notch for the more modern fuel line fitting in the housing which is a good thing as the fuel line on this one has shrunk and no longer seals in the tank. I have it all cleaned up and will try to get it back together tomorrow evening or Wednesday.

View attachment 843727

View attachment 843728

Mark

I worked on a Mini Mac 6 with the old style "rubber ball fuel line" that had heavily shrunk and no longer fit in the fuel tank outlet. I fabbed a slot in the saw housing to fit the newer style plastic fuel tank adapter tab. The housing was not designed for the plastic adapter but it worked out and is functional. I hated cutting into the housing but the saw is now working again and easier to disassemble (as much as a Mini Mac can be). Makes the non removable recoil assembly much less of a pain to deal with too.

Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

 

[djones]

Ok you 10-10 series lovers. After years of running these babies and repairing them I have finally come up with a valid part number for the replacement gasket for the fuel tank. I know what you're thinking, there is one and it's cork but I now have one and it's rubber. I just hope that they now don't run out. It is a ford tractor part number D7NN 3D587 A. It is a perfect fit. The trouble I had came to light today when I went to use one of my 7-10 saws and the tank was leaking with the cork in place and intact. Having been a Ford Tractor mechanic I had a few gasket kits laying in my shop. I was recently going through the drawers and noticed the kits in there and the gaskets. I tried a few until I came to this one and almost wet myself with joy. I hope you guys will try it out when you run into your next tank leak problem and let me know how you made out.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Interesting. Great tip and pretty cool if they actually fit well and hold up.

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/power-steering-o-ring-new-ford-d2nn3d587a-154787.html

 

[brandonstc6]

I picked up this Mcculloch pro Mac 10-10S today. The gas paint inside the gas tank if flaking off. What’s the best fix? After I remove the paint, then what?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mogulmasher]

After removing paint you could use red kote in tank to seal it. Seems like some guys have had good luck with that. I'm lazy, I usually just brush off the loose stuff, put it back together and run it. Haven't had a problem yet.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Yep. If there's no corrosion, just put fuel in it and run it. Otherwise, go with Red-Kote as a sealant and do the whole tank assembled with a new gasket.

 

[djones]

Interesting. Great tip and pretty cool if they actually fit well and hold up.

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/power-steering-o-ring-new-ford-d2nn3d587a-154787.html

I'm trying mine today and I'll let you know the results.

 

[heimannm]

There are a couple of suppliers offering Viton gaskets for the 10 Series fuel tanks, I have some from Sawzilla and they work just fine, reasonably priced too.

I made a fixture to hold the tank on a faceplate in my little lathe and rotate it slowly, I fill it about 1/2 full of BB's and run it 30-60 minutes in each direction. They come out incredibly clean. I am a Red Kote fan, particularly for the SP tanks that are sealed so you can take them apart to treat them.

I finished up the second Mini Mac 6 today then went though a PM510. At least that project went more or less according to plan.















Now I need to find a PM515 to complete the 500 Series set as I have the SP40 and PM510 on hand now.

Mark

 

[vizette]

With cases no less... Fancy!

That 510 vaguely reminds of the 320 I've got sitting here - no, actually it just looks like a 110 on steroids hehe. I'm just mad at that 320 right now. Starts easy and runs great, but the idle is about as erratic as Gary Busey. Got an autosharp chain on it now - weird stuff, but doesn't cut bad. I'm wondering if the oiler isn't the problem, as it's out of round (strangely) and I believe is sucking bar oil. Well, probably sucking air now that I've drained the bar oil.


Hard to beat the price of that O-ring if it's a good fit for a tank seal, you can get like 10 of those for the price of one of the Sawzilla's.

 

[Syncop8r]

I wonder if a 510 rear handle would fit on a 110......?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

There are a couple of suppliers offering Viton gaskets for the 10 Series fuel tanks,

That may be the shortcoming of the Ford gaskets.

I am a Red Kote fan, particularly for the SP tanks that are sealed so you can take them apart to treat them.

I presume you mean disassemble from the rest of the saw as opposed to splitting the tank? I seem to recall you mentioning also rotating tanks in your lathe jig to more evenly distribute the Red-Kote. Would be a little messy if they were separated!

 

[djones]

Regarding the Ford o-ring for the 10-10 fuel tank, so far so good. The o-ring gasket fits tight and my only problem is the top of the tank is a little thin in the area where the handle mounts and I noticed a nick in the casting that might account for a slight seepage. A foam gasket was also added around the air box. Today, weather permitting, we cut wood. Test results to follow.

 

[vinnywv]

I wonder if a 510 rear handle would fit on a 110......?

I know a 155/165 handle fits. It looks very simiar.