McCulloch Chain Saws

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Keep that engineer busy - when do you expect we will have a 82cc kit saw?

The Chainsaw Lab has yet to produce a single manufactured part. The injection molding guy sold his plant, the machine shop guys retired and my 3D printer friend has lost my only NOS sawdust guard.

Ron
 
You've bid on those too eh? :nofunny:

Got a spike from Goinwheelin on the (new to me) 7-10 today, after getting some other issues sorted out (clutch and rubbed through brake band). That spike is mean lookin', can't wait to try it out! Truly appreciate it sir. Pretty sure you could sell those all day long on ebay. customchainsawparts does, but he's kind of a jerk. As far as I can tell, you're good people - but I don't know you all that well... :laugh:

My only warning with this is to others with chain brakes: if you have the clutch cover off, and the brake handle pops forward, the top tooth will put a nice pin-stripe on the inside of the brake handle. Not complaining, still love the spike. Just a heads up.

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Lol the feelings mutual ;) Thank you for the kind words and for the heads up on the brake interference. I had another stack of them cut friday so we will see how it goes on the eBay.

Damn good looking saw you have there
 
Hey Guys,

I have a handful of the yellow beasts. I just picked up a 795 today. Does anybody have an IPL for that? I want to see what parts interchange with a 1-71.

I also remember reading Mark say he's never seen a sprocket nose bar for .354 pitch chain, but I do have a McCulloch speed mac branded Windsor bar that has a .354 pitch nose on it. Just thought I'd bring that up.

Thanks!

Scott
 
Well, I finally re-installed the carburetor in my 1-62 and cleaned all the mud dauber nests out of the muffler, but before I tried starting it I discovered the fuel tank top was cracked. Fortunately, that, a bad tank-to-carb line, and a screwed up muffler face seem to be the worst issues the saw has. The piston is clean and it has decent compression, so it just moved up on the project list! Lastly, the aluminum rod shown in the last pic was sitting in the carb box, and I’m wondering if it belongs somewhere or if it’s just a pop rivet “tail” like it appears to be?
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It's just so... beautiful. :cry: I may have peed a little when this bar showed up today. I had to file out the bar groove a hair (it's for 8mm studs), which honestly it took me a few minutes talk myself into taking a file to this new bar. I've got a new respect for my Simonds multi-kut though. Couldn't run this today though unfortunately - got a severe rope burn on my right hand this morning. Looks like I wrapped my fingers around a hot soldering iron.

What can I say - it's been an emotional day! :laugh:

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Ordered it with a loop because it seems an odd link count (96) and the only other option I saw when quickly looking was Raisman. In other words, I didn't look all that hard but I couldn't quickly find a 96 link Oregon full chisel. This is Archer chain, which I've read various reviews about but have no experience with yet. From what I've read, it's not terrible, but I'm not happy with that grind (sorry, blurry pic). That gullet needs some attention pronto.

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BTW, if we have any "file people" around, I wouldn't mind a couple minutes of your time on the side to talk about files.
Please tell....what bar pattern is that Tsumura to fit large frame Mac?
 
vizette - What are the numbers on that bar? It certainly appears to be wide enough to look correct on that saw.

On another topic, I spoke with my Engineer last week and he basically started over on the 300 Series air box cover with the good example to work from. I am hoping to have the new drawing on hand next week.

Mark

Thanks for the update! I was wondering what happened with that cover situation. Oh that reminds me, I got a chip "screen" for that 250 from Bob not long ago - appears to be 3d printed, I was wondering if that was your handy work? :)

Please tell....what bar pattern is that Tsumura to fit large frame Mac?

OK so the Tsumura situation... These are D176 mounts, commonly I just see them listed as "fits Echo". I thought I remembered the mounts being similar, so I backtracked some of the Echo models via Oregon to confirm. If you want one for a small mount, you're good to go - pretty sure I'm going to get a 24" for my 7-10 at some point. Large mount requires filing the slot a bit.

The 24" ones I see on ebay all the time, among other places. This is a 28" though, and the only place I've found it is "sawagain" (https://www.sawagain.com/) They seem to be scarce, so you have to use the "email me when these are back in stock" feature. I missed out the first time waiting too long. This time, I checked in as soon as I got the email, and there were only like two available. Not sure if that's just a supply issue or what. They're very responsive at sawagain though, I'll definitely try to do business with them again.

Anyway, back to the bar info:
The lightweight 28" p/n is 030FK4, that's 3/8 .050 with 96DL
I was specifically looking for a lightweight for this heavy ole saw, but if you want a solid there's also 030FV4 at 28" - seems that FK is light and FV is solid(?)
The lightweight 24" is 029FK4 @84DL
If you want beast mode, there's a 32" light with p/n 030FK4 (105DL), but that's a D009, so modification required.

Again, it took a few minutes with a good file to get this to fit the large frame. I just took my time, marked with a sharpie and a straight edge, and verified with calipers as I went. It was very tight getting the tail to fit, but the slot was a bit squared off by the time I was done filing, so after rounding it out again with a chain file, it gave it enough room to clear the clutch drum. I guess you could also file/grind the tail a bit if you were so inclined. I was not... :)
I can definitely notice the weight difference. I also assume that squared off slot after filing is probably not good to leave there as it encourages stress fractures from the corners. Side note: got a lot of "nails on a chalkboard" screeching while trying to file it perpendicular - didn't bother me, but I'm sure the neighborhood animals were going out of their minds! Filing at a 45, sort of draw filing and cross filing at the same time got the job done without noise.

Regarding the width comment that Mark made: the bar is ~ 3" wide, which is about the same as the old Homelite bar I had on there. However, the TsuMura is more consistent in width down the length of bar. The Homelite bar was noticeably narrower at the nose, so I really like this more, especially the wider nose. The TsuMura narrows down a bit at the nose, but not as much. As stated previously, the loop that came with it is Archer (per an email convo with sawagain). The grind on it sucked, and wasn't even consistent side to side, but I got that sorted out tonight with a good file!
 
New stihl files cut pretty fast on a mild chain because I think stihl chain is pretty hard. I reshaped the gullet and angle on the Homelite 38 with a 13/64ths stihl file .
New chain off the roll sometimes requires shaping,

Thanks for the reply, and that's some nice filin'! Love cutting cherry, it smells so good. I think that and red oak are my favorite...

In regards to files, I should have been more specific - I was actually thinking about flat files and types and brands. Turns out that the world of files is much more complex than I ever imagined! I have a Mercer, which was amazing at cutting, but didn't last very long. I keep reading that the old Nicholsons are good if you can find NOS, but the "new" ones at the big box aren't worth much. Currently, a Simonds multi-kut is my goto for rough work with a Pferd for finer stuff.

I try to stick to Oregons for chain filing. That said, I have a Husqvarna chain file I just retired that seemed to do well, but I assume it's rebranded (?). Looks very similar to Oregon. Also have a Pferd that has held up very well, but their stuff isn't cheap. Will have to check out Stihl files...
 
The SP 40 is finally going back together, it needed more work than I originally thought. Installed a different crank from Ebay, bearings and seals, ignition all fixed and adjusted and sparking a nice blue spark. Carb rebuilt, oiler gone through, recoil repaired, etc. I just hope that dumb fixed main jet in the Zama carb is in the ballpark of the right fuel mixture.
 

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Looking for a 10-10 clutch plate cover like the one shown in attached photos for sale.

Also if you have some info about any sort of power mods that people are doing to 10-10s or which bar/chain combo works best for these, please share your experience. I dont think sugihara makes a bar that will fit the 10-10s, but maybe Tsumura?

Also, is there a difference betwen the 10-10s special edition and the regular 10-10s?

I pulled this image off of here when looking at someones rebuild of their 10-10s here on the site. If anyone has the same for sale (without hole for rope) I would be interested.
 

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I discovered the fuel tank top was cracked
That actually looks like an easy fix. Some JB, some patient finishing and a little paint..., wouldn't even know it was ever there. Hammer it out from the inside surface the best you can and go for it. May even pop back even.

The mystery piece looks like debris of some kind to me, too. Nothing of the sort floating around the air box of my 1-60.

Good luck with that muffler cover/top. That may require some patience to find.
 
The SP 40 is finally going back together, it needed more work than I originally thought. Installed a different crank from Ebay, bearings and seals, ignition all fixed and adjusted and sparking a nice blue spark. Carb rebuilt, oiler gone through, recoil repaired, etc. I just hope that dumb fixed main jet in the Zama carb is in the ballpark of the right fuel mixture.
As I understand the fixed hi jets on the Tilly carb,it's set so you can't screw it up.They came up with the fixed jet because too many amatures were setting the older style adjustable carbs too lean & were burning their saws up.
I had a HS151A on my Homie SXL-925 & I rebuilt it & it ran like crap after the rebuild.Due to my poor eyesight I was unable to put a check valve in it,so I pulled that carb off & put the kit in a HS26A adjustable hi jet.The saw runs great now.
You can be a full turn "off" & it'll still be good.
 
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