McCulloch Chain Saws

Wesspur
Rugged made
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fossil said:
Thinking about fixing those check valves in the caps with the aluminum valve assembly.

Someone has very likely done this before but it's an easy fix for anyone not caring about looking OEM.

Parts were a piece of stick pen refill or any piece to tubing that will fit the Poulan or Homelite duckbill.
You will have to drill the aluminum plug in the cap out to fit the tube. Make sure you only drill down about 1/8".
Some Seal all is likely a good adhesive to stick the tube.

In the mean time you can always do this. Just fixing up my SP81
Click to expand...

Does that still have a spring in it? Or is it completely sealed? My concern (if it's sealed) would be that enough pressure would build in the tank as it heats up that it would override the carb needle spring and flood the saw, instead of relieving pressure out of the cap via a spring loaded duckbill.
 
vizette said:
Does that still have a spring in it? Or is it completely sealed? My concern (if it's sealed) would be that enough pressure would build in the tank as it heats up that it would override the carb needle spring and flood the saw, instead of relieving pressure out of the cap via a spring loaded duckbill.
Click to expand...
No spring. Sealed up. I used SealAll to glue the tube in.
Typically I find most needles don't pop off until about 30+ psi so unless you have one that pops off low or leaks it's not an issue.

If there's crud in the needle seat, it will force gas through the carb.
 
vizette said:
My concern (if it's sealed) would be that enough pressure would build in the tank as it heats up that it would override the carb needle spring and flood the saw, instead of relieving pressure out of the cap via a spring loaded duckbill.
Click to expand...
A tank vent works the other way around..., it lets pressure in to equalize the vacuum that's created in the space previously occupied by fuel as it gets consumed. A plugged vent will starve a saw of fuel, not flood it.
 
So why doesn't anyone make a pop up piston for a 10-10 or 700? Since they already make aftermarket pistons wouldn't it be smart to offer pop ups?
Just wondering, because if I know chainsaw guys they'd want a pop up . I think it really begs the question that if the companies making this stuff really even know what chainsaw people want or like?
Hell there's even an Xl-12 p/c but no pop up? If you go through the trouble to get the manufacturing why wouldn't you make options unless your clueless.
I'd probably disassemble a perfectly fine 10-10 to try a pop up.
Just ranting , I put together a off brand with a pop up today and was surprised by the difference in performance .
 
Automatic Oiler Help:
This is an automatic oiler inbuilt to a front tank McCulloch fuel tank. Can anyone tell me if I am missing parts and if I am provide an image of what it is? This came in a big box of parts already pulled a part.

 
fossil said:
No spring. Sealed up. I used SealAll to glue the tube in.
Typically I find most needles don't pop off until about 30+ psi so unless you have one that pops off low or leaks it's not an issue.

If there's crud in the needle seat, it will force gas through the carb.
Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks! Definitely fought the (hair pulling) battle of the dirty needle seat a few times...

PogoInTheWoods said:
A tank vent works the other way around..., it lets pressure in to equalize the vacuum that's created in the space previously occupied by fuel as it gets consumed. A plugged vent will starve a saw of fuel, not flood it.
Click to expand...

Understood, as fuel is consumed (or bar oil for that matter), you have to replace that space with something (air), and the duckbill is a one-way vent to let air in, but not gas out. There is also other side of that though (most notably with tank over the cylinder saws) where, as the saw heats up and consequently heats the tank, it builds pressure in the tank, especially if it's not being run hard which consumes fuel/space. I was under the impression that's what the spring in the cap that holds the duckbill is for? It keeps the duckbill seated/sealed, but also provides for a blow off if pressure gets to the point that it might override the carb needle. Sort of like the pressure relief valve on an air compressor or hot water tank. I've definitely experienced pressure blow off when loosening the cap on a hot saw before. Usually more in the winter with a saw that's been sitting, where it's got cold/dense fuel and air, and then you suddenly heat it up when you put it to work.
 
heimannm said:
What did you use for the wrap?

Mark
Click to expand...
It's a professional bicycle handle bar wrap . I bought it at an outfitter shop where everyone smells like patchouli and loves kayaks , skinny jeans, and dreadlocks.
It's a pretty good wrap ,with adhesive running just down the center. I do an over lap and pull hard enough to sketch it out twice its length. Experimented with it on a 10-10a last year and it's held up with out tearing or release.
I'll post a pic of the brand tomorrow when I go out to the shed.
Thanks again for producing these Mark , the opportunity for a full wrap bar in my area rarely if ever presents itself.
 
I made my annual trek down to see Bob J.today.I'm a poor man $450 + later & I'm sure Bopb is laughing all the way to the bank.Lol It wasn't all for parts though,some of it was for labor on my 380 that he just couldn't get going.Ya win some,ya lose some.Of course it was good to see the old boy once again & shoot the breeze.I've probably got enough parts to last me through the rest of the yr.with one exception.I got home & there was a package on my doorstep.It was a 10-10 that I bought on Feebay a couple days ago.I unboxed it & got it running only to find out that it didn't have a muffler.I have 2 mufflers here for it,but no gasket! Damn,I was right there today.Lol
 

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