Thats been listed for a really long time. Yes delusional.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Theres another 25 listed for 595.00. Says its the second one in the world that works...lol
They must really have a reputation of not working, haha
Yeah,I'd say he's definitely dillusional
$2969.00 is the max I am willing to pay for one of those. That $0.01 more puts it out of reach for me, darn it.
Saw that and realized what a fool I am. I had the only other one in the world that ran and sold it for pennies on ebay.
Does this look like it?:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-600052D-Chainsaw-OEM-Muffler/154039690401
Anyone have a pic they can share of the bar tail that came standard on a 125 MAC?
Thanks
Thanks
That eBay listing has been noted before. The seller may be a member here or over on another site and put it up as a lark.
Tim - see if any of these help. All of them are for the large frame McCulloch saws and all would fit the SP125 models.
Mark
Tim - see if any of these help. All of them are for the large frame McCulloch saws and all would fit the SP125 models.
Mark
Thanks Mark!
I looked in a 1968 Oregon catalog and it appeared that by that time they had abandoned the large frame MAC bars. I would assume they were still making them for Mcculloch or maybe started making them again when the CP125 was introduced.
I looked in a 1968 Oregon catalog and it appeared that by that time they had abandoned the large frame MAC bars. I would assume they were still making them for Mcculloch or maybe started making them again when the CP125 was introduced.
I just bought a handful of parts from that guy - he's parting out a 7-10. Side note: unfortunately ebay is enforcing some new payment method (managed payments) that doesn't allow the seller to combine shipping? Otherwise I would have bought a lot more from him. Looks like ebay may be trying to divorce itself from paypal?
Anyway, there are a couple different versions of that muffler from what I know. The "pad" on the back has a different orientation depending on the model, but otherwise basically the same - this is aside from the obvious differences on the covers, baffles, etc. of which there were multiple.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Hello, I'm hoping I can find some advice here. Some time ago I was given my grandfathers collection of McCulloch saws and accessories, all of which have been sitting for decades.
Recently I've been wanting to get them running, so I started with the one that looked to be in the best condition, a 10-10 Automatic, and gave it a look over.
Still has great compression, piston looks mint, and it fired after 2 pulls with a little squirt of fuel down the carb. Only apparent problems is that the fuel line/tank leaked badly, and the pull rope has trouble retracting. It had also been sitting with old fuel.
Here's where my troubles begin. First, the carb: A walbro SDC. I decided to take it apart, clean it out, and put new kit on it since it had a lot of old fuel sitting. I took out the welch plugs too for a deep clean.
This went fine, except I realized after I finished putting everything back together with new plugs in place that I forgot to put a tiny mesh screen with a tiny C clip back in under one of the plugs. Is this a critical problem? I'd like to know if I can get away with running the saw without it, as the screen looked perfectly clean with no debris in it when I pulled it out, or do I need to start over just to get that tiny screen back in again?
Second, the fuel line: When looking into what to buy for this, I noticed a repeating trend of people complaining about the new replacements for the original rubber line not being the same quality and wearing out/leaking quickly. So I was interested when I noticed kits involving aluminum bushings that allow you to use standard modern fuel lines. I decided to give one of these kits a try.
Everything went together easily enough and the aluminum bushing pressed in without incident, but when I went to hook the new fuel line back to the carb I discovered a problem that I didn't think about, the original line has a flared out end to fit onto the carb.
I've tried hard to get it on by stretching the hose out a bit, it gets close but it just won't squeeze on there. Did I screw myself over here, or is there some kind of trick/adapter I can use to make this work?
See pic of what I'm talking about.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to bring these saws back to their former glory buzzing through wood, but I feel like I'm stumbling along and failing from the beginning here, it's frustrating.
Recently I've been wanting to get them running, so I started with the one that looked to be in the best condition, a 10-10 Automatic, and gave it a look over.
Still has great compression, piston looks mint, and it fired after 2 pulls with a little squirt of fuel down the carb. Only apparent problems is that the fuel line/tank leaked badly, and the pull rope has trouble retracting. It had also been sitting with old fuel.
Here's where my troubles begin. First, the carb: A walbro SDC. I decided to take it apart, clean it out, and put new kit on it since it had a lot of old fuel sitting. I took out the welch plugs too for a deep clean.
This went fine, except I realized after I finished putting everything back together with new plugs in place that I forgot to put a tiny mesh screen with a tiny C clip back in under one of the plugs. Is this a critical problem? I'd like to know if I can get away with running the saw without it, as the screen looked perfectly clean with no debris in it when I pulled it out, or do I need to start over just to get that tiny screen back in again?
Second, the fuel line: When looking into what to buy for this, I noticed a repeating trend of people complaining about the new replacements for the original rubber line not being the same quality and wearing out/leaking quickly. So I was interested when I noticed kits involving aluminum bushings that allow you to use standard modern fuel lines. I decided to give one of these kits a try.
Everything went together easily enough and the aluminum bushing pressed in without incident, but when I went to hook the new fuel line back to the carb I discovered a problem that I didn't think about, the original line has a flared out end to fit onto the carb.
I've tried hard to get it on by stretching the hose out a bit, it gets close but it just won't squeeze on there. Did I screw myself over here, or is there some kind of trick/adapter I can use to make this work?
See pic of what I'm talking about.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to bring these saws back to their former glory buzzing through wood, but I feel like I'm stumbling along and failing from the beginning here, it's frustrating.
The factory resolution for the fuel line fit issue was to replace the nipple on the carburetor with a smaller one (90 degree fitting). Sometimes sitting with fuel will cause the cork tank gasket to swell and seal, otherwise you can get an aftermarket Viton one for under $20. The screen also keeps the check valve in position, it is necessary.
Mark
Mark
I have adapted a number of hose ends by slipping/gluing a piece of larger hose over them... Works fine if the ID of the larger hose is slightly smaller than the OD of the fuel line.
I've put a bit of light heat on the fuel line with a lighter then jamb a pair of needle nose pliers into it to stretch it. While it's still warm and pliable stick it on the carb fitting.
Take the carb apart again and put it back together correctly, should only take a few minutes. OK probably longer if you're not used to doing it, but even if it's half an hour, no biggie. Also, better to err on the side of rich than lean with the carb tune - don't want to melt that thing first time out.
In regards to the carb/fuel line situation, my opinion is remove the large barb and replaced with a 90 that will fit the tygon. See here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/the-unofficial-mac-10-10-thread.201506/page-65It's press fit, grab with pliers and twist as you pull it out, gently tap the new one in. They're like $4.
As Mark said, the fuel tank gasket might expand enough to seal up after exposure to gas, otherwise replace with rubber.
Slow retract shouldn't be a big deal either. Pull the outer housing (three screws), clean it all out with brake cleaner, then if you want, use a dry lubricant like lock lube (graphite). You don't want something oily that will just attract dirt and gunk again. The trick: make sure you don't pull the spring out when you pull the housing (unless the spring is all gummed up). It can all be put back together of course, but that thing will flail all over if you're not ready for it, and then you have to wind it up again enough to get it back in there. If you don't want to go about it that way, you can pull the entire mag cover and leave the retract attached to it. Same thing, blow brake cleaner down the shaft until it starts operating properly. This will also give you a peak at the white plastic shaft "bushing" to see if it's OK or not, assuming it has one. Dry lube.
There are lots of write ups with pictures of the check valve under the welch plug.
Ive robbed plenty of fuel inlets off cheap Amazon carbs.
I use industrial spray silicone lubricant on the starter by spraying it right down the rope hole and it usually flushes rust and gunk out the bottom and drys up, if I take the cover off I slide a flat head screwdriver under while taking it apart so as not to release the spring.
If your diaphragm is shot in the Welch plug the saw will usually idle but die when you stab the throttle, there's plenty of write ups on it with pictures.
The 10-10a is an excellent saw to work on and not complex, everything is pretty forgiving on that saw.
You're obviously in the right place to engage and interact with some of the most experienced and friendly McCulloch people on the planet.
Welcome aboard.
I fiddled a bit with my newer 380 that I bought a few months ago & it runs great.I went down to see Bob J.on Sat.& picked up my other 380 that I'd left with him last yr.& he just couldn't get that bugger going.It ran fine,but the previous ass hat that had the saw decided to pull the manual oiler rod out & seal up the holes for the rod with silicone caulk.That saw is still giving Bob nightmares I'm sure.Lol
The current 380 I have runs great,the oiler doesn't work,so that'll be a winter project to pull it down & replace the oiler piston cup that I've had for a while now.The problem I'm having now is that I can't tighten the chain.I've even tried putting a new side clutch cover on from the old 380.I've been told that with the original bar bar plates were not required.
As for that muffler for the 10-10 that's on Feebay - I'd be foolish to buy that one for $15+$8 shipping=$23 & no guarantee it'll fit.I can get a new one from Bob J.for $35 & if it doesn't fit I can send it back without a hassle.I do appreciate your help though.Thanks!
The current 380 I have runs great,the oiler doesn't work,so that'll be a winter project to pull it down & replace the oiler piston cup that I've had for a while now.The problem I'm having now is that I can't tighten the chain.I've even tried putting a new side clutch cover on from the old 380.I've been told that with the original bar bar plates were not required.
As for that muffler for the 10-10 that's on Feebay - I'd be foolish to buy that one for $15+$8 shipping=$23 & no guarantee it'll fit.I can get a new one from Bob J.for $35 & if it doesn't fit I can send it back without a hassle.I do appreciate your help though.Thanks!
Mark, isn't the bar in the fourth picture one of those that pipes the oil to the tip? Other than your posts I have never seen one. Ron
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