McCulloch Chain Saws

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Everything went together easily enough and the aluminum bushing pressed in without incident, but when I went to hook the new fuel line back to the carb I discovered a problem that I didn't think about, the original line has a flared out end to fit onto the carb.
I've tried hard to get it on by stretching the hose out a bit, it gets close but it just won't squeeze on there. Did I screw myself over here, or is there some kind of trick/adapter I can use to make this work?
What about dipping the end of the line in hot water for a few seconds before trying to press it on?
 
What downed the tree Mark?
Iowa, northern IL, and southern Wisconsin got hammered with a storm system called a derecho. Uncommon for us, but more seen in the plains states. Lots of down trees if you're looking for some sawing work.
 
I'll be a little busy helping my daughter and son in law this week.
Looks like some pretty tricky work there, Mark..., but quite a bit of firewood. It appears to be elm(?) --( just to double the work involved when it comes to splitting!)
Be safe and good luck with it. How about some video of this one?
 
The current 380 I have runs great,the oiler doesn't work,so that'll be a winter project to pull it down & replace the oiler piston cup that I've had for a while now.The problem I'm having now is that I can't tighten the chain.I've even tried putting a new side clutch cover on from the old 380.I've been told that with the original bar bar plates were not required.

The 320 I'm poking at now calls for an outer bar plate, but if I put it on, the adjustment pin isn't long enough to get through that plate and the bar hole. I debating throwing the plate on the sanding belt and taking down like half the thickness (it's ridiculously thick). Probably just going to leave it off...
 
The 320 I'm poking at now calls for an outer bar plate, but if I put it on, the adjustment pin isn't long enough to get through that plate and the bar hole. I debating throwing the plate on the sanding belt and taking down like half the thickness (it's ridiculously thick). Probably just going to leave it off...
I'm not talking about a PM380,the 380 I have is from the early '60's,87cc.The problem is solved,apparently whoever owned the saw previously had an F014 mount bar on it,which will work,but needs bar plates to do so.I found a bar that's supposed to go on the 380 & it tightens up nicely now.Damn,I wish the oiler worked,the saw runs so nice.
 
Unfortunately the bulk of the trees are birch, not much good for anything like the linden in front. There are two fairly large oaks and the clump of mulberry. For no more than they use the fireplace they will have a 10 year supply. We are still waiting to find out where we can haul the logs to get rid of them, I expect it will be two days of just loading, hauling, and dumping logs when the time finally comes.

Mark
 
Unfortunately the bulk of the trees are birch, not much good for anything like the linden in front. There are two fairly large oaks and the clump of mulberry. For no more than they use the fireplace they will have a 10 year supply. We are still waiting to find out where we can haul the logs to get rid of them, I expect it will be two days of just loading, hauling, and dumping logs when the time finally comes.

Mark
That's what craigslist is for :D Stack it out by the road and post.

Or throw some in the trash every week. I've gotten rid of a lot of stuff that way (vs going to the dump), as long as you have the patience to throw it out bit by bit.
 
Thanks for the great advice everyone! Waiting on new welch plugs to arrive before I can go back in and put that little screen in that I forgot.
On a side note, is there anywhere to buy something like a box of assorted welch plugs? They seem awfully expensive for what they are from most sources I found. For a few dollars more you can get a whole new carb kit that includes the welch plugs(which is what I did in this case).

Meanwhile, I got the pull rope stuff taken apart, cleaned and reassembled with some dry lube. Pull is nice and retracts perfectly now, so at least that part's done.

For the curious about some of my grandfathers other saws that I received, there's an Eager Beaver, 3 10-10's, a 250 and a 39.
I think the 39 is the most interesting looking, I'd love to get it running but I have no idea where to begin on something like it. I'll need to do my research first.
25039.jpg
 
Thanks for the great advice everyone! Waiting on new welch plugs to arrive before I can go back in and put that little screen in that I forgot.
On a side note, is there anywhere to buy something like a box of assorted welch plugs? They seem awfully expensive for what they are from most sources I found. For a few dollars more you can get a whole new carb kit that includes the welch plugs(which is what I did in this case).

Meanwhile, I got the pull rope stuff taken apart, cleaned and reassembled with some dry lube. Pull is nice and retracts perfectly now, so at least that part's done.

For the curious about some of my grandfathers other saws that I received, there's an Eager Beaver, 3 10-10's, a 250 and a 39.
I think the 39 is the most interesting looking, I'd love to get it running but I have no idea where to begin on something like it. I'll need to do my research first.
View attachment 848087

Your Grandfather obviously knew his saws ! The 10-10s is one of the best.
 
I'll be a little busy helping my daughter and son in law this week.

View attachment 847885

Mark

Its lucky that birch went away from the house.
Those trees have the tendency to search out for pipes with the root system. I've had a few to cut after popping the lid off a manhole and seeing the roots with the tree a good 20-30' away.
Looks like a 50yr supply of those artistic candle holder center peices laying there.
 
Thanks for the great advice everyone! Waiting on new welch plugs to arrive before I can go back in and put that little screen in that I forgot.
On a side note, is there anywhere to buy something like a box of assorted welch plugs? They seem awfully expensive for what they are from most sources I found. For a few dollars more you can get a whole new carb kit that includes the welch plugs(which is what I did in this case).

Meanwhile, I got the pull rope stuff taken apart, cleaned and reassembled with some dry lube. Pull is nice and retracts perfectly now, so at least that part's done.

For the curious about some of my grandfathers other saws that I received, there's an Eager Beaver, 3 10-10's, a 250 and a 39.
I think the 39 is the most interesting looking, I'd love to get it running but I have no idea where to begin on something like it. I'll need to do my research first.
View attachment 848087
The first thing I'd do with the 39 is check for spark.Then if that's in order I'd move on to the carb to see if it's delivering fuel.If the saw was stored with no fuel in it then chances are good it'll take off running again with just a prime.Next on the list would be to see if the oiler works.The oiler can be a tricky one.
 
Hi guys, it's been a little while. I just wanted to come on and share today's Mac score.
Got a 7-10, 3-10E, 1-40, 1-51, 1-52, and a 250.
The 3-10 fires on prime, 7-10 ran but had air leaks. I havent messed with any of the big saws but all pull over with compression.
Already tore down the 7-10. Everything looks good, all the intake screws backed off and blew the gaskets out. Will install new crank seals and replace gaskets as needed and should have a runner.
I do need the lower handle brace and recoil screws if someone can help.
I am also going to be looking for some parts for the 3-10E namely a battery box. I would like to add a working electric start saw to the collection. I think I'm going to try to get the bullfrog working, or should I just scrap it and do an SDC like I did last time?

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