McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

This is a neat little saw except for the leaking. Too bad McC and Homelite chose to use non standard drive link counts on their saws.

I have a hiking trail loop that is 3.5 miles behind my cabin (of which 2.5 miles is actual walking trail and the rest is logging road). This little saw will be nice to carry for trail maintenance as it’s so light even compared to my smaller rear handle saws. And if there’s something that can’t be cut with a 14” bar, I’ll just have to carry a big saw.

At the time, I believe many would say that McCulloch and Homelite were the standard bearers - not the other way around. Ron

 

[svk]

At the time, I believe many would say that McCulloch and Homelite were the standard bearers - not the other way around. Ron

I guess you have a point there, they were definitely early adopters of the 3/8 LP chain.

 

[vizette]

When you buy a used condenser,or even a new one for that matter off eBay,there's no guarantee they'll be any good.This is something that a lot of perople don't understand - a condenser can go bad from just sitting on a shelf.I bought a NOS condenser for a Remington saw back a couple of months ago & it was no good.I told the seller about it & he sent me another NOS condenser,it too was no good.
I've thought about using a Homie condenser.I'd just have to be sure of the Mf output & the length of the wire was acceptable as well.

Oh I understand, NOS electronic parts like that can be a craps shoot.

In regards to the microfarad rating, you're not dealing with precision electronics here. It's not a full sine rectifier, it's a crude storage device at best. Rough framing, not finished carpentry. Wire length is easy to fix.
If you want something new, I'd suggest hunting around for something from a small engine manufacturer like Tecumseh, B&S, Oregon, Stens... Trickiest part there would be finding something in the physical size you want, but that can be mounted anywhere if it won't fit where the original goes, just like a chip. FWIW on the 10 series, the chip will fit/mount in place of the condenser, and that will keep the mag blowing air across it with no other modification required (other than wiring).
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/condenserGet it on Amazon if you want free returns.

A small automotive condenser would probably work too, again, form factor permitting. Might be worth a trip to NAPA? That way you could compare in person. Come to think of it, I need one... Might have to run over there this week!

 

[j-jock]

you need points file.
emery or sandpaper is iffy at best. grit can be left in points, preventing contact.

I have had excellent results using a extremely fine diamond file. The file is thin, the process is quick, and I have been using it successfully, for both automotive points, old Brigs engines, and a couple of old chainsaws, for over 25 years.
Bob

 

[edju1958]

As my old high school biology teacher used to say "one man's borsch is another man's kapusta".

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

@PogoInTheWoods, just an FYI, this 7-10 has the lever operated decomp like the one I traded to you, but it is a chrome cylinder with the open transfers like what is normally seen in a 7-10 just to add more confusion to McCullochs mixing and matching of parts lol.

Nice score, Kevin. Does it have a tag?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'd bet a talented and ambitious person could make several improvements to a Mini Mac. Your idea could certainly be done, the only problem is that you'd also have to drill a hole in the magnesium housing to have clearance for any kind of valve. That pinhole is completely covered by the housing, it vents simply because air can still find it's way past the housing. It's an extremely crude solution, haha

That's how Homelite keeps the duckbills in place on their little saws.

​

 

[2broke2ride]

Nice score, Kevin. Does it have a tag?

No tag on this one unfortunately.

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[vizette]

Result of not using a shim/washer behind the clutch drum I assume?

 

[fossil]

That will do it for sure.

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,I got working on a PM 10-10 today that I've had laying around for about 1 1/2 yrs.now.This saw has a chip in it & it had some good spark.I put some fuel in the cylinder & it fired right up,so I put fuel in the tank & after a few pulls it fired up & ran well.The next thing I knew as I picked up the saw there was fuel all over the place.Come to find out there was no gasket in the tank cover.I don't remember if I changed the top tank cover 1 1/2 yrs.ago or not so it'd accept a PM cover & the flat air filter.I'm going to say I didn't as the saw is a left hand start.I put a cover on the carb itself with the round cover & a little stud on it for the air filter cover to screw onto,but it doesn't line up with the AF cover.I don't know which air filter stud to use.I've got a different filter stud to try that was used on the early 10-10's & the 2-10's.I'll get some pics on here so you all know what I'm talking about.
OK I went & changed the air filter bracket & it's about 1/4 in.too far forward (the stud).It seems to me that I went through the same thing with finding the correct air filter bracket for my 1st 10-10 about 2 yrs.ago.I remember Poge & Fossil were involved with it.I'll have to go back about 400 pages or so to find it.Right now I'm waiting on my pics to come in.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Hi guys,I got working on a PM 10-10 today that I've had laying around for about 1 1/2 yrs.now.This saw has a chip in it & it had some good spark.I put some fuel in the cylinder & it fired right up,so I put fuel in the tank & after a few pulls it fired up & ran well.The next thing I knew as I picked up the saw there was fuel all over the place.Come to find out there was no gasket in the tank cover.I don't remember if I changed the top tank cover 1 1/2 yrs.ago or not so it'd accept a PM cover & the flat air filter.I'm going to say I didn't as the saw is a left hand start.I put a cover on the carb itself with the round cover & a little stud on it for the air filter cover to screw onto,but it doesn't line up with the AF cover.I don't know which air filter stud to use.I've got a different filter stud to try that was used on the early 10-10's & the 2-10's.I'll get some pics on here so you all know what I'm talking about.
OK I went & changed the air filter bracket & it's about 1/4 in.too far forward (the stud).It seems to me that I went through the same thing with finding the correct air filter bracket for my 1st 10-10 about 2 yrs.ago.I remember Poge & Fossil were involved with it.I'll have to go back about 400 pages or so to find it.Right now I'm waiting on my pics to come in.

I'm not trying to be a smart ash but did you try flipping the stud plate around , front to back?

 

[edju1958]

I'm not trying to be a smart ash but did you try flipping the stud plate around , front to back?

It'll only fit on the carb one way.

 

[edju1958]

OK,my pics finally came in.I looked back & found the old posts on pg.1517 & 1518.Here are the AF brackets that DON'T work.




The last bracket is 1/4 in.too short.There's another one just like it,but can't figure out if it's part # 66681 or 68807.

 

[2broke2ride]

Ok, I am doing a feasibility study. I have recently come across a number of front tank project saws. I have a 1-51, a 1-52, a 1-40, and a 250 in the group. I would like to take the engine from my 1-86 gear drive and effectively make a 99cc front tank saw like a 550 but with what I have around. Is it doable or am I crazy.

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[heimannm]

The 1-86 is a "Super Series" engine and the front tank saws are not, so you will have to swap the crankcase (side) cover. I have not tried that yet so I can't say if it will work or not.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Nothing is crazy & pretty much anything is doable in the Mac world.Look at what Vinny did back a few months ago when he made his Frankensaw.And it runs great! I can't remember the model # he gave it.

 

[2broke2ride]

The 1-86 is a "Super Series" engine and the front tank saws are not, so you will have to swap the crankcase (side) cover. I have not tried that yet so I can't say if it will work or not.

Mark

Ok, probably better off to just leave well enough alone. I know enough to remember that they use different crank seals which means they may use different bearings.
I was more wondering if basically just the tanks could be swapped to turn the gear drive into a direct drive.
Mark, on another note, I remember you saying some of the lower model saws in the 1- series used bushings instead of bearings, which ones was that? The 1-40? Maybe the 1-50?

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[vinnywv]

Nothing is crazy & pretty much anything is doable in the Mac world.Look at what Vinny did back a few months ago when he made his Frankensaw.And it runs great! I can't remember the model # he gave it.

Lol, i took a 7-10 engine and mated a super pro 81 oil tank to it. My SP71!! Yes its a great runner.

 

[sawfun]

Ok, probably better off to just leave well enough alone. I know enough to remember that they use different crank seals which means they may use different bearings.
I was more wondering if basically just the tanks could be swapped to turn the gear drive into a direct drive.
Mark, on another note, I remember you saying some of the lower model saws in the 1- series used bushings instead of bearings, which ones was that? The 1-40? Maybe the 1-50?

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A 1-86 is a very nice saw in its own wright.