McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

Kevin - 350 stamped on the drive link = .354 pitch, .050 gauge, 358 is .354 pitch, .058 gauge for McCulloch branded chain. Carlton chain use J1 and J2 if I recall correctly.
McKid - Make sure your chain gauge is correct for the bar as that would cause it to cut to one side, but if it is consistently cutting one way the chances are you hit something and dulled the cutters on one side.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Is this .354 chain? It was on a 16 inch hardnose mac bar on my 3-10E when I got it. Doesnt look like it's ever been filed. It is 62DL. If someone wants, they can have it for the cost of shipping. The bar has a chunk out of the nose unfortunately but that can go too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Does anyone need or want this bar and chain?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Does anyone need or want this bar and chain?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I'll donate a sprocket if you or someone needs it for the combo.

 

[2broke2ride]

I'll donate a sprocket if you or someone needs it for the combo.

If nobody else wants it, I'll take the sprocket and run it on a different bar just for the sake of having something different. I dont think the chain has ever been filed.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm happy for you with that 7-10, Kevin. I'd say that one may be a keeper.

 

[heimannm]

Is this an example of the vented cap? This is the tank and cap from the MM6 I recently acquired. There does not appear to be a pinhole, and these caps are different from my other Mini Macs:

That is the baffled/vented cap that I was referring to.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

I'm pretty happy with it Poge. Hopefully the one you got from me turned out good for you too.
As far as it being a keeper, I dont send many Macs down the road lol.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[2broke2ride]

You guys know me on here, check out my youtube channel. I hope to get some more technical type shop content up going forward.
Subscribe if you like what you see.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

You guys know me on here, check out my youtube channel. I hope to get some more technical type shop content up going forward.
Subscribe if you like what you see.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've been subscribed. Lol

 

[vizette]

The bad:
I noticed right away that my cuts are curving off to the right, the saw also has a tendency to rattle/chatter a bit when this is happening once it's about halfway into the log. The bar is new, so I know it's not worn out, and I made sure to match the gauge of the chain with the bar. The chain is facing the correct direction. The chain was admittedly fresh out of the box. I don't know how sharp chains generally are new from the box, but I wanted to get a feel for how it cut as-is before I start attempting to learn the art of sharpening myself. I realize that this could very well be the source of the problem right there, but I'd like to hear other thoughts and advice before I proceed.

I've faced quite a few saws that cut an arc when I first get them, for various reasons. Odd though that it's a new bar and chain and it's cutting crooked. Is it cutting on a diagonal (e.g. straight path, but angled through the wood) or is it cutting an arc (curved cut)? Usually curved will bind up and stop cutting unless it's very gradual.

What brand chain? The new bar and chain I just got (Archer chain I think?) was horribly ground out of the box. I didn't even attempt to cut with it before hitting it with a file. Oregons have always cut relatively well for me out of the box. Always feels better after a few filings though...

Listen to Poge and rwoods. If you point the nose of the saw at something (cardboard, log end, neighbors car, etc.) and open it up, you should start to see an oily line form from it flinging off the end. If you're not getting anything, give it a couple hits with the manual as Poge said and see what you get. It's a quick way to tell whether you have an auto oiler problem or a bigger issue. Side note: watch the nose distance - I was so hyper focused on watching the log end for oil one time that I wasn't paying attention to how close the nose was, and it nicked the log and the saw kicked up. That'll wake ya up!

 

[mogulmasher]

Ive done the same thing vizette....certainly will wake you up. Using cardboard is good advice for that very reason.

 

[edju1958]

It has been told to me that in order for the auto oiler to work on a Mac you must first prime it with the manual oiler.

 

[McCullochKid]

Lots of good advice here. I think I'll try making a short video tomorrow so people can see/hear what the saw is doing, which would probably be more worthwhile than pictures and descriptions.
Both the automatic and manual part of the oiler are working fine. Flings out a line of oil.

I don't see any bar plates in your pictures - were they installed?

I'm not sure? What are those normally attached to? When I got the saws all of them had their bars removed, so if it's something that attaches to the bar I could have missed that.

is it cutting an arc (curved cut)? Usually curved will bind up and stop cutting unless it's very gradual.

What brand chain?

Yes, it's cutting in an arc. Seems to start straight but when it gets about halfway through the cut it sometimes rattles/clatters around a bit, and by the time it reaches the end it's noticeably curved off about half an inch to the right or so.
Brand new Oregon bar and chain. Both are .050 gauge; I don't notice any side to side slop with the chain in the bar.

 

[vinnywv]

These are bar plates. Should be 2 of em.

 

[svk]

Is this an example of the vented cap? This is the tank and cap from the MM6 I recently acquired. There does not appear to be a pinhole, and these caps are different from my other Mini Macs:

This is the cap I have on the 35 and it pees out the top.

 

[svk]

Does anyone need or want this bar and chain?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

There’s a guy who posted in chainsaw wanting a chain. I’ll see if I can find him.

 

[rwoods]

I'm not sure? What are those normally attached to? When I got the saws all of them had their bars removed, so if it's something that attaches to the bar I could have missed that.

Yes, it's cutting in an arc. Seems to start straight but when it gets about halfway through the cut it sometimes rattles/clatters around a bit, and by the time it reaches the end it's noticeably curved off about half an inch to the right or so.
Brand new Oregon bar and chain. Both are .050 gauge; I don't notice any side to side slop with the chain in the bar.

One of these plates goes on each side of the bar. Your clutch drum is hitting the cover likely because the thickness of the two plates is missing causing the cover to be closer to the drum than it should be. Place wide side to front with the flares pointed away from the bar.

These are bar plates. Should be 2 of em.View attachment 850521

As to curved cuts, your saw, chain and bar might be fine - if you are leveraging the saw it may be your grip. I find with all of my MACs that I have to pay close attention to my forward grip to saw straight.

Ron

 

[edju1958]

Your best bet is to get yourself an IPL (Illustrated Parts List),this will show you where the bar plates go on & it'll come in handy when looking for any other parts you may need later on.
You can get an IPL by going to the Beg For Manuals thread here on AS.

 

[Woodslasher]

I just mounted up a n.o.s. dog kit I scored off of eBay on my 1-62. All I need to do now is hook up the fuel line, bolt down the tank, and tune it! But, college started up again today so that might not happen for awhile.

 

[heimannm]

Good man Daniel, very happy to hear you are forging ahead.

Mark