That tape looks great. I did a 041 once with lizard skin bat tape. Stuff worked awesome. Very grippy and I think it took some of the sting out of your hands.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I also stopped by my favorite scrap yard ,and I've been there so many times the owner will set saws he knows I like to side for me.
He had this really not abused Pro Mac 10-10 ,points ignition. Not really bad to make a runner, broken adjustment screw slot , short pull rope , and bad gas. I'm gonna replace the duckbill in the cap.
Gave it a spin with a 24" and some old #38 Homelite chain. Pulls good noodled up some dry oak rounds.
For some unknown reason P.O. poked holes in the muffler?
He had this really not abused Pro Mac 10-10 ,points ignition. Not really bad to make a runner, broken adjustment screw slot , short pull rope , and bad gas. I'm gonna replace the duckbill in the cap.
Gave it a spin with a 24" and some old #38 Homelite chain. Pulls good noodled up some dry oak rounds.
For some unknown reason P.O. poked holes in the muffler?
Nice saw man. Love those braked clutch covers. I want 1 on my 850
Thanks. My life was ruined 2 months ago when I ran my PM700 for the first time.
Well finally catching up on project saws, so gonna tackle some more of my Macs. Yesterday I was able to grab a decent 2-10 for $30. I figured it was worth it for parts for my other 2-10, 1-10, and a 6-10 I have missing a lot of parts. Well when I got it home I realized I think its a bit cleaner than my previous 2-10. Well anyways the goal is to make 3 runners out of the saws below....from left to right, 1-10, 2-10, 2-10, and 6-10.
The new 2-10 I picked up has a beautiful 20" hard-nosed bar. The 6-10 is locked up from sitting and has some iffy spark plug threads. Also has oil pump blocked off? I wasn't aware they were manual oiler only.
Another thought I have is fixing up another 10-10s carcass I have. Can a lightweight right hand start 10-10s be built with spare parts from these saws?
The new 2-10 I picked up has a beautiful 20" hard-nosed bar. The 6-10 is locked up from sitting and has some iffy spark plug threads. Also has oil pump blocked off? I wasn't aware they were manual oiler only.
Another thought I have is fixing up another 10-10s carcass I have. Can a lightweight right hand start 10-10s be built with spare parts from these saws?
It's like a disease.Ya can't stop
Yellow fever
I think the issue is clutch with keyway and different taper. Maybe put the right hand crank under an S cylinder n piston.
Or just go left pull like my S powered lightweight
Jethro, which lightweight parts did you use specifically? I remember seeing post about that saw but can't remember what you did.Yellow fever
I think the issue is clutch with keyway and different taper. Maybe put the right hand crank under an S cylinder n piston.
Or just go left pull like my S powered lightweight
Its a lightweight righty tank. A 10-10S block a PM10-10 starter.
It out cuts my mates offbrand 311 and is lighter lol. No brake though
Any idea how much weight it dropped?
McKid - I have had success with a loose bar stud/bolt by cleaning everything very well and setting the stud in place with JB Weld. I used a piece of pipe with a washer and bar nut to hold it in place while the JB cured. I have a few broken flywheel covers from folks trying to start the 82cc saws without the compression release. You should be able to remove that valve with a thin wall deep well 7/16" socket. You also need to remove the socket head cap screw and use a small drill bit (by hand) to clean the port into the cylinder to allow the DSP to vent properly.
I have had good success dealing with oxidized magnesium using the abrasive blast cabinet and some decent paint. On occasion it may be necessary to use some spot putty to improve the finish on more readily apparent areas. In some cases where the corrosion goes all the way through I've been able repair by blasting, putting some tape over the hole, then adding JB Weld on the other side to fill in the voids.
This is a flywheel cover that had a hole knocked through it so I used some wire mesh to help reinforce it.
Mark
I have had good success dealing with oxidized magnesium using the abrasive blast cabinet and some decent paint. On occasion it may be necessary to use some spot putty to improve the finish on more readily apparent areas. In some cases where the corrosion goes all the way through I've been able repair by blasting, putting some tape over the hole, then adding JB Weld on the other side to fill in the voids.
This is a flywheel cover that had a hole knocked through it so I used some wire mesh to help reinforce it.
Mark
I've never had an S but pick up a PM10-10 vs a 10-10A its alot. The 2-10 even more so
A Super Pro 81 for $30... Jeez. I think this should go in the "You Suck" Thread.
But seriously, Well done! I would follow the sand blasting suggestion. I would use JB weld as a kind of bondo for the spots that get blown away. I wouldn't do the chromic acid idea.
To help you get an idea of how the SP 81 goes together, here is an IPL. (if you don't have one already)
It might be handy to have a reference of what goes where, especially if someone else messed with the saw.
edit: ah, heimannm beat me to it with the JB weld thing. (better ideas too!)
Yes my 10-10s vs 2-10 is a huge difference in weight. The 10-10a falls somewhere between.
Is the righty pull 10-10 same as the left pull A? I assumed it will be. I could make mine lighter still with a beat old 7-10 starter I have. The 2-10 with S would be a heck of a we saw.
I have the bullfrog 2-10 and its tight but just going to fit a SDC under it with no choke or make up a sliding choke.
I have the bullfrog 2-10 and its tight but just going to fit a SDC under it with no choke or make up a sliding choke.
I believe there were 2 different 6-10s.I happen to have a 6-10A.Of course the auto oiler doesn't work,but I hope to get it oiling this winter.There's not much to them really,just pull the allen screws out & the bolts that hold it in place & the pump is out.Then there's nothing to cleaning up the pump - a spring & a diaphragm & put some air to the impuls hole & put it back together.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
This was the winning move! I couldn't help but laugh at how simple the solution was. It's obvious why it was spinning around... Nice mystery sludge bar oil, huh?
Anyway, there's lots of useful information for me to use here. Thanks everyone! Hopefully I won't run into any more surprises now that I can really dig in and disassemble this.
I really hope this saw still has lots of life left in it despite how beat up it appears to be on the surface.
Nice 1
Yeah if has compression like you say it's going to be good as in fact I'd call you a genuine jammy prick lol. You jammy prick.
They often look more beat up than they really are. Just tossed around on the back of a ute for instance or kept in a fish bin with an axe and a chain or other tools thrown in there or whatever.
There are many stunning no paint loss examples people pay 10 times that amount for only to find its cooked.
Are they your safety boots?
