Fyi this is how all the 10-10 54ccs saw should run. I do have a dome top filter 10-10A that I chipped and uni-filter, I think it might be stronger.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Fyi this is how all the 10-10 54ccs saw should run. I do have a dome top filter 10-10A that I chipped and uni-filter, I think it might be stronger.
Figured I'd throw this out here to you guys before listing cause I'd rather this go to a Mac collector. Gonna sell my 380. This is a fantastic running saw that cuts great. Its in really good shape with just one crack in the clutch cover and little damage to muffler deflector. Also has a really neat old roller nose bar on it. I'm looking for $175 plus shipping from you guys...which seems to be running about $60 nowadays.
Real cords or those face things that get talked about?
Knowing Ed pretty well thail be real cords. The 3.6M cubed variety
Sorry Jethro,I couldn't imagine burning 27 full cords.Those were face cords.No one ever refers to a cord of wood as a full cord (4Ft.x4ft.x 8ft.) anymore.My face cords are 18 in.-20 in.long logs though,not 16 in.
Hahaha I stand corrected lol I thought you were old school.
Why can't you boys just use meters like the rest of the world lol
Too many stubborn old f*rts out there who are afraid of the metric system.Lol
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
100 cubic meters = pretty close to 27 cords. I didn't burn a stick last year but cut quite a few.
Ron
Ron
I got a mate who burns 20 to 30 cube a year. He has a disabled son at home who needs to be toasty. Generally 20 is a huge amount we burn 8 to 12 average I guess. Good wood is 70 to 100 per cube here to buy so not cheap for non cutting people. I share alot with my grandparents and others if need be
What do you heat with Ron?
I gotta confess that of those 27 cord of wood there were about 2-3 that were not hardwood.Those 2-3 cord were poplar that I burned during the day when I got close to running out.It was a damn good thing that I had some wood piled up that I'd gotten in in the fall for the following yr.Some of that was ash that you can burn even if it's green (it wasn't green,it was dead).
I started cutting that yr.early (Feb.) & I couldn't get around back to dump it,so it went on my front lawn,& the pile kept growing & growing.Before I knew it I had 25 cord of hardwood piled up.Then it came time to split it.My son got a bunch of his testosterone buddies to come over & give a hand.I was loading up the trailer & stacking it & couldn't keep up with them.Lol
I started cutting that yr.early (Feb.) & I couldn't get around back to dump it,so it went on my front lawn,& the pile kept growing & growing.Before I knew it I had 25 cord of hardwood piled up.Then it came time to split it.My son got a bunch of his testosterone buddies to come over & give a hand.I was loading up the trailer & stacking it & couldn't keep up with them.Lol
Geo-thermal heat pumps and a wood stove in the basement. Last winter was mild and I was too busy to spend time in the basement so the wood stove just sat. Ron
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
Well... I said that I hoped there wouldn't be any more surprises, but with this saw that's just not going to happen.
Before I go all in on trying to fix this saw properly, I wanted to see if the saw can at least still run properly. Figured out quickly that there's no spark, so I decided to tackle the mystery meat fasteners and remove the recoil/flywheel cover to investigate the coil and associated things. This is what I found.
This poor saws had a rough life. I'm not really sure what the full extent of the damage is here, but some sort of big crack happened in the metal here. This also explains why the holes through the bottom plate aren't aligned.
Edit: Upon examining the IPL it appears to be either shroud #86314A or #88835A that got broken somehow.
This cover is a bit roughed up and is missing a chunk, but otherwise doesn't appear to be too bad.
Here's a peek through the spark plug hole... Also, how is this clutch supposed to come off? I've tried gently shocking it with the nut partially on but the thing won't budge. Is it threaded on and meant to be unscrewed?
Before I go all in on trying to fix this saw properly, I wanted to see if the saw can at least still run properly. Figured out quickly that there's no spark, so I decided to tackle the mystery meat fasteners and remove the recoil/flywheel cover to investigate the coil and associated things. This is what I found.
This poor saws had a rough life. I'm not really sure what the full extent of the damage is here, but some sort of big crack happened in the metal here. This also explains why the holes through the bottom plate aren't aligned.
Edit: Upon examining the IPL it appears to be either shroud #86314A or #88835A that got broken somehow.
This cover is a bit roughed up and is missing a chunk, but otherwise doesn't appear to be too bad.
Here's a peek through the spark plug hole... Also, how is this clutch supposed to come off? I've tried gently shocking it with the nut partially on but the thing won't budge. Is it threaded on and meant to be unscrewed?
I believe so, and it looks like it has provisions for you to use a cold chisel to pop it loose machined into the clutch "spider".
Don't be so hasty to throw in the towel right away.Not every saw you get is going to be an easy fix like change the plug & put new fuel in it & it's good to go.Everything with this saw is going to be a learning process.Don't let it overwhelm you.
Think its time to get that tank off and get it cleaned up properly. Don't rush it good things take time. Your very lucky to have that project. Enjoy every step.
The clutch is a taper fit unscrew the nut until flush with the crank and hold the flywheel in your hand now lift the saw up by the flywheel and crack the nut with a copper hammer if on hand if not be careful with a steel hammer but check for mushrooming and be careful.
Flywheel same again
Don't hit that spider it will break. Be nice to it
