McCulloch Chain Saws

[Yokosukadweller]

Yes, there are likely 5 screw heads on the yellow part of the starter housing. Take them all out and lift the cover off. Not the three on the black part, yet. See whats under the cover first. Let us know and go from there.

Thanks Vinnyvw, I couldn't get in there yet. But will open and look, but what I can see from outside is that I managed to bust 2-3 wings off the flywheel. I can only speculate why that happened, the engine locked up with gas or smth else? A larger ordeal that what I'd wanted on a family Sunday.

 

[rarefish383]

North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Beautiful day in North East Tennessee with temperatures in the twenties and warming to the forties. Loaded the truck to go fall some Ash, then got a text that ground was too wet. So other than loading and unloading the PM800, I saw no MAC action today.

Spend the day building a sled firewood shed to compliment my dog house of similar design. Theoretically it will hold four cubic feet short of a cord. I built it to hold three rows. Realized after the picture that I forgot to remove the temporary braces. Dog house has battens; not sure that I am going to add that to the shed.
View attachment 888010

Be safe.

Ron
PS I believe read somewhere that Mark H. was a high school shop teacher at one time. I thought of that today when I stuck freshly removed 3" wood screw in my mouth - not smart as that baby was hot. Just wondered whether they taught that in shop class or left it with experience to be the teacher. I already know that it is not smart to hold nails or screws in your mouth as you may be one sneeze from death, but when there aren't enough hands ... .

This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.

Crack me up Ron, I’ve done the same thing with deck screws. I used to work, in my spare time, for an antique shop. I bought a couple very ornate setting room chairs cheap that were falling apart. Took them apart, reglued, and put back together. Took an upholstery class, part of the price of the class, was a magnetic tack hammer, and a box of “Sterile upholstery tacks”. You put a hand full in your mouth, turned the head out with your tongu, and picked up the tack with the magnetic tip of the hammer. Those little buggers were sharp. I always wondered what would happen if you hick cupped with a mouth full?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

My first construction job was roofing, I can still remember the taste of aluminum nails!
Great job for someone who gets the spins up high lol.

 

[ozziechainsaw]

Very interesting Justin - I have never seen a 250 with a black top like that. I have seen yellow tops and a few late model saws with the short black cover but that one is different from the ones we see over here.

View attachment 887787

Mark

Hi Mark,

I check the other 250 I have and it also is Black top. The Super 250's I have are also Black top as well.

Justin

 

[rwoods]

Crack me up Ron, I’ve done the same thing with deck screws. I used to work, in my spare time, for an antique shop. I bought a couple very ornate setting room chairs cheap that were falling apart. Took them apart, reglued, and put back together. Took an upholstery class, part of the price of the class, was a magnetic tack hammer, and a box of “Sterile upholstery tacks”. You put a hand full in your mouth, turned the head out with your tongu, and picked up the tack with the magnetic tip of the hammer. Those little buggers were sharp. I always wondered what would happen if you hick cupped with a mouth full?

My first construction job was roofing, I can still remember the taste of aluminum nails!
Great job for someone who gets the spins up high lol.

When I was young, a framer somehow shallowed a nail while working on a house addition. He died I was told. Wasn’t sure if it was true or just something told us boys to do as you are told not what you see - my father always had a mouthful of nails when building. I now think it was true as I have read in local newspapers of similar deaths during my life.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

When I was teaching school, wood screws were slotted and the only cordless driver was a Yankee. If you're not a Boomer you'll have to look it up.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Never owned a Yankee, but wanted one. You could get some speed with the long ones.

Ron

 

[northwest saws]

(Obligatory smart-ass remark) Technically, all of us are dying, we just don't know how quickly we're going about it.... Damn that's beautiful! Why's it on the bench?

True statement! It is unharmed, just put in on the bench to take a couple photos.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[northwest saws]

(Obligatory smart-ass remark) Technically, all of us are dying, we just don't know how quickly we're going about it.... Damn that's beautiful! Why's it on the bench?

True statement! It is unharmed, just put in on the bench to take a couple photos.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[2broke2ride]

This was yesterday's project, the forum was down last night so I couldn't post til this morning. I tore the Super 250 down completely. Going to go through it and rering and re seal it.
I managed to break the crank stuffer trying to get it off, bummer. I will have to see if one of my parts saws has one here that will interchange.
I asked before, but does anyone know where I can get the proper gasket material to make the reed plate gaskets? These are extremely thick, much thicker than any of the Karropak material I have here.
This is actually my first time taking a large frame saw down completely so if there are any tricks I should know I'm all ears. Ive also never had one of these with an automatic oiler. Is there anything I should service there while it's apart?

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[PogoInTheWoods]

Measure the old gasket thickness and start rooting around the shop. You'll probably find something that'll work. If it doesn't need to be rigid, get some Fel-Pro hybrid material. A roll is like $13 but will find all kinds of other uses.

 

[super44]

I have a Pro Mac 700 that has a busted handle on the fuel tank assemble, it came to me this way. I have an NOS replacement for it and I would like to move the ID tag to the new one. Are there any tricks I should know before I start taking things apart?? Thanks

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I just looked up that gasket, Kevin. Thick indeed. I think the heavier Fel-Pro would work, though it'll also compress somewhat. Another option may be fiber exhaust gasket material?

 

[emf123]

This was yesterday's project, the forum was down last night so I couldn't post til this morning. I tore the Super 250 down completely. Going to go through it and rering and re seal it.
I managed to break the crank stuffer trying to get it off, bummer. I will have to see if one of my parts saws has one here that will interchange.
I asked before, but does anyone know where I can get the proper gasket material to make the reed plate gaskets? These are extremely thick, much thicker than any of the Karropak material I have here.
This is actually my first time taking a large frame saw down completely so if there are any tricks I should know I'm all ears. Ive also never had one of these with an automatic oiler. Is there anything I should service there while it's apart?

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

That's a bummer about the stuffer. The part number is 60251 and it looks specific to the S250 and saws that had an auto oiler on them, like the 440 and 550 are two I found. I'm going to guess that you could modify a regular 250 or 300 stuffer by drilling a hole for the oiler impulse signal.
My best tip is to use a heat gun on things you want to get apart, especially gasketed items. It really loosens the oily gasket bond. Also, aluminum heats up quick so it's easy to do and makes life much easier.
Reed gasket part numbers are 65653 & 62834 - thick one. I don't know of any aftermarket. I'd get a new reed as well or at least examine it closely and maybe flip it over so it stays tight to the plate.
I would clean the oil pump - be careful the pieces like to fall apart - and adjust it so it's almost maxed out. I use lots of loctite blue and permatex motoseal when putting things back together.
Eric

 

[2broke2ride]

That's a bummer about the stuffer. The part number is 60251 and it looks specific to the S250 and saws that had an auto oiler on them, like the 440 and 550 are two I found. I'm going to guess that you could modify a regular 250 or 300 stuffer by drilling a hole for the oiler impulse signal.
My best tip is to use a heat gun on things you want to get apart, especially gasketed items. It really loosens the oily gasket bond. Also, aluminum heats up quick so it's easy to do and makes life much easier.
Reed gasket part numbers are 65653 & 62834 - thick one. I don't know of any aftermarket. I'd get a new reed as well or at least examine it closely and maybe flip it over so it stays tight to the plate.
I would clean the oil pump - be careful the pieces like to fall apart - and adjust it so it's almost maxed out. I use lots of loctite blue and permatex motoseal when putting things back together.
Eric

I took apart a 1-52 parts saw I have here. No dice on that crank stuffer, as I assumed, it isn't drilled for the auto oiler and even if I where to drill it there is no flat area around the hole location for a gasket.

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[Maintenance supervisor]

I have a Pro Mac 700 that has a busted handle on the fuel tank assemble, it came to me this way. I have an NOS replacement for it and I would like to move the ID tag to the new one. Are there any tricks I should know before I start taking things apart?? Thanks

Spot weld drill bit might be easier to take the old rivet heads off with.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Those rivets should just pop out with a knife under it

 

[rarefish383]

I’m ready to start putting my 7-10 back together. Bob sent me a new piston and rings mounted on a new rod. If I pull my old rod off the crank, how do I put the needle bearings on the new rod? I thought I read a thin layer of Vaseline just to stick them in place till it’s torqued down?

 

[vinnywv]

Vaseline in a thin layer would work. Any type of grease would do the trick. Steady patience also.

 

[vizette]

This was yesterday's project, the forum was down last night so I couldn't post til this morning. I tore the Super 250 down completely. Going to go through it and rering and re seal it.
I managed to break the crank stuffer trying to get it off, bummer. I will have to see if one of my parts saws has one here that will interchange.
I asked before, but does anyone know where I can get the proper gasket material to make the reed plate gaskets? These are extremely thick, much thicker than any of the Karropak material I have here.
This is actually my first time taking a large frame saw down completely so if there are any tricks I should know I'm all ears. Ive also never had one of these with an automatic oiler. Is there anything I should service there while it's apart?

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

Curious about this myself. I've got one that I'm sure I'll be into eventually, but have yet to take down a big boy like this.

As far as gasket material, might want to check this out. I've been really happy with it for thick-ish/fuel resistant needs. Can always double it up if need be.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-3157https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3157-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNISM2
and last but not least:
https://www.m-and-d.com/MAC-M60251.htmlLooks like they have the gaskets too. Could try to alumiweld it? Worst case, you waste some time and propane/mapp. For $12 though, I think I'd just order one and be done with it. Or call Bob if you don't want to wait 2 months.