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The REAL Mac 650 is an even heavier devil, but a nice one.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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What's the diff beteen a Real 650 and a PM650?
Thanks Tim, yes we are keeping very well thanks. Just getting fedup with the restrictions. Hope you guys are keeping well and safe as you are in a much more active area.
Real 650 was a large frame saw from the '60s.
I was given one today.
It turns.
It turns.
Lee - I try to pour in a small enough amount that I don't have to pour the excess out. Sometimes that means you get an extra thick coating somewhere that takes a few more days to cure fully. The instructions are to pour the excess out then throw away the remainder of the can...but that is when you do a full size car or pick up truck fuel tank. As you can see, if you clean the rim of the can and get a good seal (I turn the can upside down after pressing the lid back in place) it will keep a long time.
The last can I bought cost around $40 but if you can do 10 to 15 tanks with a can it turns out to be pretty economical.
On another note, I have been working to free up the stuck piston rings from a BP-1. After several weeks of soaking, heating, quenching, and finally taking Fossil's advice and soaking in Sea Foam I was successful. I didn't mind that I ruined the old rings as I have a new set to go in.
This particular saw was really stuck but with soaking (PB Blaster), making an adapter for a grease zerk/spark plug, and some judicious application of the slide hammer I did manage to get it apart. The cylinder cleaned up very nicely (no photos yet) and I have the gearbox/transmission back together already.
I am working with Brian Genrich of Rallye Productions in Waukesha, WI on the gaskets and diaphragms for the carburetors and hope to have some parts available soon.
I will still be missing a few critical items but there is the possibility I can get three saws mostly together.
Mark
The last can I bought cost around $40 but if you can do 10 to 15 tanks with a can it turns out to be pretty economical.
On another note, I have been working to free up the stuck piston rings from a BP-1. After several weeks of soaking, heating, quenching, and finally taking Fossil's advice and soaking in Sea Foam I was successful. I didn't mind that I ruined the old rings as I have a new set to go in.
This particular saw was really stuck but with soaking (PB Blaster), making an adapter for a grease zerk/spark plug, and some judicious application of the slide hammer I did manage to get it apart. The cylinder cleaned up very nicely (no photos yet) and I have the gearbox/transmission back together already.
I am working with Brian Genrich of Rallye Productions in Waukesha, WI on the gaskets and diaphragms for the carburetors and hope to have some parts available soon.
I will still be missing a few critical items but there is the possibility I can get three saws mostly together.
Mark
OK now I see. I had a 380 and that was a back breaker.
Nice! I've got one of those that I intermittently try to get running, I think it should have everything it needs by now but I haven't tried starting it yet. I have forgotten I had it a few times, though....
I have 3 saws apart now. This one will have to get in line.
I only pulled the cord enough to tell it wasn't locked up.
I will take a look with the endoscope before I try to start it.
Is yours open like this above the sprocket? I see nothing in the IPL that covers it.
I think a rubber flap goes over it and is fastened by that screw at the top of the opening.
That looks like what I recall my cover looking like, it doesn't really make sense though, does it?
I think a rubber flap goes over it and is fastened by that screw at the top of the opening.
But look at this. That's the worst piston I have ever seen that's not locked up.
But I have a good engine that I think will fit it.
Holy Crap!
Not a rubber flap, but a piece of stamped steel for that clutch cover on the PM6. I have several kits if anyone is interested.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark.
I believe I can fab one.
But it's on the back burner since I looked at the piston.
Yeah, I was wrong. I went out and looked at mine last night while I was prepping for work today and I noticed the tin flap on mine. Bummer about the piston though.
I cleaned up a couple more saws to prepare them for the move to the museum. Someone had given me this 300 a few years ago, the paint was literally falling off the air filter cover so I cleaned it up a bit and painted it with a fine textured black, not quite the original crinkle finish but not bad either. I also repainted the slash on the bar after giving it a little polish with the DA sander and some 220 grit paper.
This one will join the 650 that I cleaned up and repainted 12 years ago. The 300 is the direct drive version and the 650 is the gear drive version of the same saw. Someone already has called me out for switching the flywheel side cover on the 650 since the one that came on the saw was in such bad condition. The 650 is the kid sister to the 660 like the 300 is to the Super 250.
The 650 and 660 have a compact gearbox that hides quite nicely. If you don't detect the oversize clutch cover you would never know it was a gear drive.
I used hammer tone black paint on the 650 back then since the can of crinkle finish I bought didn't work. I like the fine texture black better and it really works well on the 10 Series saws.
Mark
This one will join the 650 that I cleaned up and repainted 12 years ago. The 300 is the direct drive version and the 650 is the gear drive version of the same saw. Someone already has called me out for switching the flywheel side cover on the 650 since the one that came on the saw was in such bad condition. The 650 is the kid sister to the 660 like the 300 is to the Super 250.
The 650 and 660 have a compact gearbox that hides quite nicely. If you don't detect the oversize clutch cover you would never know it was a gear drive.
I used hammer tone black paint on the 650 back then since the can of crinkle finish I bought didn't work. I like the fine texture black better and it really works well on the 10 Series saws.
Mark
Thanks. After seeing that I may not try to fab one.
I also pulled this Super 797 out of my little garage and cleaned it up in preparation for putting it over in the museum. It was repainted before I got it, not exactly the bright McCulloch yellow but not bad. This saw had been setting with fuel for several years but it fired right up and still runs well. I will leave the hardnose bar and skip chain since that is the way I ran this saw when I cut with it.
The 795, 797, and Super 797 have a DSP similar to the CP70 and SP125 saws with the lever actuator and latching knob.
Mark
The 795, 797, and Super 797 have a DSP similar to the CP70 and SP125 saws with the lever actuator and latching knob.
Mark
Save your time and energy for something more important, like fabricating muffler covers for the 71 and 82 cc saws. I have a stack of the shrouds for the PM6 saws, I'll send you one for the cost of the shipping.
Mark
