Thanks again Mark.
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McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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My 5-10 dsp will pop every pull or so but refuses to run, so I’m guessing it needs a carb kit. The ipl says I need kit #65608, but rock crusher says there are two different kit #’s for 5-10’s. Can anyone tell me whether that is the kit # I need or, if that’s not the case, which kit # I need?
What carburetor is on it? That will determine what kit you will require.
A bullfrog carb, I dunno anything other than that. I was wondering if there were several variants of the bullfrogs used on 10-series Macs.
I was getting ready to go out cutting today & was going to take my 10-10S,E.B.2.1,& a Remy SL9.I couldn't get the 10-10S to start.I went through to check for spark & tried 2 different plugs,but wouldn't fire.I dumped out the fuel thinking it might've got some water in it from the last bit of fuel that was left outside for a couple days.I finally found the problem,the choke linkage had come unhooked & the choke was stuck in the closed position.I left the 10-10S behind & took the 5-10 in it's place.I didn't have a lot of wood to cut,most of it was small limb wood.I got to my cutting location about 3:15 & fired up the SL9 first.It ran OK,but needed some carb adjustments & I forgot my small screwdriver.So next I fired up the E.B.2.1 & only cut about 8-10 pieces of wood when something caused the chain to start binding.Of course no tools to take it apart to see what was causing the chain to bind,so I refueled the SL9 & made the carb adjustments with my scrench.There was no sense in firing up the 5-10 as there wasn't anything big enough for the 70cc saw to sink it's teeth into.I did manage to get close to a cord of wood cut in the couple hrs.I was out cutting..I know you're all laughing so hard you're probably falling out of your chairs reading this thinking to yourselves "he only cut a cord of wood in 2 hrs.".You'd have to see the conditions I had to cut in to understand.The logs were scattered like pick up sticks in a pile that's overgrown with poison ivy & other such viny plants (thank goodness I'm not allergic to poison ivy),& the bark is now falling off the wood due to it laying there for a few yrs.I'd have to cut,then pull the log out of the pile the best I could,then cut some more.When I first got there I thought I'd never be able to do what I did,but persistence pays off.I hope to go back on Mon.& finish that nightmare cutting.
Tomorrow it's possible that I'll get to use the newly rebuilt SP81 to drop a huge maple trunk about 15-20 ft.tall that we started on (the tree) back in 2013.Back then I only had a Timberbear for my only Mac with a 20 in.bar.
Tomorrow it's possible that I'll get to use the newly rebuilt SP81 to drop a huge maple trunk about 15-20 ft.tall that we started on (the tree) back in 2013.Back then I only had a Timberbear for my only Mac with a 20 in.bar.
There were (I think) 5 different versions of the bullfrog carburetor. Your best chance is to take your carburetor apart and compare the diaphragm to these photos. I believe I have the part numbers correct.
Mark
Mark
What! You mean I gotta do the legwork!? In all seriousness, thanks for the photo references. I'll try to get the carb redone before I go under the knife at the end of the month, but no promises. Also, I'm thinking I'll sandblast and repaint that 1-43 as it's be a good practice saw. So far I've already practiced porting on it, why not try jbweld repairs and painting too?
I had no idea there were so many different types of bullfrog carbs.The all important question is WHY?
Does this come apart to change the primer bulb? It's from a 3200. I thought maybe the outside was a threaded collar but I gently tried and it didn't move. I didn't try harder cause I didn't want to break it.
No repair possible, just replace it. There are many, many options available on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Primer-...4b9da2e0f71225145ee9|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
Mark
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Primer-...4b9da2e0f71225145ee9|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
Mark
Thanks Mark. I had no idea, only primer bulbs I've replaced are the ones held in with 2 screws and a small metal flange.
I had to break a couple before I learned the bulb could not be replaced.
Mark
Mark
Also, does anyone know where I can find the little primer valve p/n 63041? Mine is quite gooey so I believe it needs to be replaced. If they are nla could I modify a generic homelite one to fit?
I was searching in my little garage trying to find the "missing" CP70...I have not been able to figure out where that one went but I did uncover these two saws.
I knew these were both runners since they were with the saws I use but I thought I'd give them a little going over anyway. I will set one up with the cold weather kit (air filter cover and duct) and the other I will put up for sale. As I got to looking into them I went a bit further than I had thought at first. The "grey" one had a very dry looking tank so I removed it for a good cleaning and have given it the Red Kote treatment. The "black" one with the LWK label will become my cold weather kit SP80 for the museum.
I was also taking a better look at the black cold weather AF covers I have and for the first time (I've had the part around for several years) really noticed the difference.
So, I have ordered the SP80 decal off eBay for the one on the left, and I will have to find an early 10-10 to fit with the one on the right and put it in the display somewhere as well. The later version is clearly die cast magnesium, the early one is apparently sand cast aluminum. It came on a saw from Canada but there was no duct on the saw. This must have been an early attempt at the cold weather gear that they tried some time before the SP60 and SP80 models. Here is how it came to me.
Sometimes we fail to see the trees when looking at the forest.
Mark
I knew these were both runners since they were with the saws I use but I thought I'd give them a little going over anyway. I will set one up with the cold weather kit (air filter cover and duct) and the other I will put up for sale. As I got to looking into them I went a bit further than I had thought at first. The "grey" one had a very dry looking tank so I removed it for a good cleaning and have given it the Red Kote treatment. The "black" one with the LWK label will become my cold weather kit SP80 for the museum.
I was also taking a better look at the black cold weather AF covers I have and for the first time (I've had the part around for several years) really noticed the difference.
So, I have ordered the SP80 decal off eBay for the one on the left, and I will have to find an early 10-10 to fit with the one on the right and put it in the display somewhere as well. The later version is clearly die cast magnesium, the early one is apparently sand cast aluminum. It came on a saw from Canada but there was no duct on the saw. This must have been an early attempt at the cold weather gear that they tried some time before the SP60 and SP80 models. Here is how it came to me.
Sometimes we fail to see the trees when looking at the forest.
Mark
You have two options Dan.
You can modify your carburetor to use the red Homelite duckbill valve but you have to make sure the duckbill valve is properly aligned with the spring in the primer to make it work.
View attachment 896210
The red one is taller and there are coils from the spring in the passage below. If you do it correctly the carburetor will work just fine.
View attachment 896211
View attachment 896212
View attachment 896213
The second choice is I will send you an original. I would choose #2 if I were you as you have enough other things going on for now. Just confirm your address to me and I will get it going on Monday.
Mark
I'll gladly accept #2, thank you.
OK,today was a bit better out cutting.I got the 10-10S fixed this A.M.but when we got to the wood lot I had a helluva time getting it started,but once it was running it cut great.It stalled out because the idle was set too low & it wouldn't restart.After it cooled off a while It started,but I had to hold the throttle trigger on all the way.My son used it to drop a good sized ash tree & cut on the main part of the trunk.He said it had good power & liked it.
I got to use the 5-10 for the first time today & it ran well too till I hit a rock after only about 8 cuts with a brand new chain.Needless to say I wasn't happy.After we got home with our load of wood I tried to restart the 5-10 & it wouldn't start at all.I sharpened up the chain & tried again.I'm finding out that for some reason that if I use the choke it wants to flood.Only by putting the choke off & holding the throttle trigger wide open will it start.I like the 5-10 better than the 10-10S because it's lighter & is more powerful.
I got to use the 5-10 for the first time today & it ran well too till I hit a rock after only about 8 cuts with a brand new chain.Needless to say I wasn't happy.After we got home with our load of wood I tried to restart the 5-10 & it wouldn't start at all.I sharpened up the chain & tried again.I'm finding out that for some reason that if I use the choke it wants to flood.Only by putting the choke off & holding the throttle trigger wide open will it start.I like the 5-10 better than the 10-10S because it's lighter & is more powerful.
I think I feel same way about my 7-10. I have a beautiful 10-10s that cuts strong, but not sure if I'll ever pick it up over my 7-10 which has more power, bigger engine, and is lighter.
Can someone please confirm that this is the same kit as the last one @heimannm showed in his lineup?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-McCu...625837?hash=item28726fde2d:g:TRkAAOSwQ9lcK-m7
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Early-McCu...625837?hash=item28726fde2d:g:TRkAAOSwQ9lcK-m7
