McCulloch Chain Saws

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I see two part numbers for the insulator -- 63258A for no prefix or 1 prefix, and 66661 for a 10 prefix (if you still have a tag). This IPL seems to cover from early on until '71.
All right, I couldn't come up with any ebay hits using your p/n's, but I took a shot in the dark and looked up a 7-10 ipl that showed it using a dsp. That ipl said the p/n is 84080, which I was able to find on ebay. Visually it is the same style as the tall block I have, but it looks thinner. Do you think it would work? Both the 5-10 and 7-10 are 70cc's, both have dsp's in the ipl I referenced, so I think the isolater should be interchangeable or possibly even the same thing but with an updated p/n, right?
 
Hey guys good to see all is going well in the yellow saw world.

Been back into an old hobby lately and sorta haven't had time for saws. I have cut down a couple trees with the 81 though.

Its yellow 2 stroke and goes hard :) 20210626_102117.jpgScreenshot_20210628-170800_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20210628-142839_Snapchat.jpg

In Mac news ruamati a member down here and a real nice guy sent me a large frame Mac a coool Large frame Mac too

Screenshot_20210630-153725_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20210630-153714_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20210630-153709_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20210630-153721_Gallery.jpg
She needs love:)
 
Someone else built a 73 using a British automobile piston last year but I can't remember who. It's in the annals of this thread.

I remember that, it was rings from a Ford Anglia. Had no idea what a Mac 73 was at the time, but quite familiar with the little car :)

I found rings for the mac 73 they are for a 1956 British Ford Anglia, I'll recut the ring grove. 012 wider and that will true the grove. This will give me a extra 2 sets. Best way I could find and for 17.00 bucks.
Anything is better than what I had. View attachment 820840
 
I remember that, it was rings from a Ford Anglia. Had no idea what a Mac 73 was at the time, but quite familiar with the little car :)
I found rings for the mac 73 they are for a 1956 British Ford Anglia, I'll recut the ring grove. 012 wider and that will true the grove. This will give me a extra 2 sets. Best way I could find and for 17.00 bucks.
Anything is better than what I had. View attachment 820840

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-chain-saws.71126/page-1823#post-7272898
 
@Syncop8r, your third quote/link above concerns rings for a Mac 10-10a.

20 what? Those are way wrong and may not seat against the bore correctly even with the ends filed back. 62814 is the OEM ring set. Caber also makes a set.

@PogoInTheWoods, you wouldn't happen to remember for which saw(s) these replacement rings were listed/intended for (or Caber part number); I checked Meteor/Caber's sites some time ago, but as I recall couldn't find anything listed for 10-series Macs.
Just curious, since I might have to do my Mac 10-10a (avatar) sometime, and suppose Caber should be readily available over here.
 
@Syncop8r, your third quote/link above concerns rings for a Mac 10-10a.
I just searched this thread for the word "Anglia" and the second quote is what came up.
The third quote is a link to the page it's on, which does start with some conversation about 10-10a rings but if you scroll down further you'll see the post about Anglia rings.
 
Thanks @PogoInTheWoods, I’ll check it out, maybe contact them.
Just to be clear, I’m referring to the Caber replacement rings. Downloaded their catalogue now, but I don’t see any 10 series Macs listed there. The only ones that look familiar is “McCulloch 610” (46.6 mm o.d., 1.5 mm height, 1.95 mm radial thickness; only model listed for this part) and “McCulloch 250” (o.d. = 54 mm, h = 1.5 mm, r = 2.25 mm; one of couple models listed next to this part).
Then I also see some Titan models and some “McCulloch MTS …”, perhaps Italian made ones.
 
I'm sorry. The part number is for OEM McCulloch rings, not Cabers. I may be misinformed about Caber making a specific replacement ring set for the 62814's. My memory seems to recall someone using Caber rings somewhere along the line as replacements, perhaps with a filed down end gap to properly fit?

Maybe someone knows the 62814 measurements off hand and will chime in. You could then contact "The Greek" (ebay seller dandrikop) to see if he could match them up with something close enough to use with a little end gap filing.
 
I do not know the O.D. dimensions on the rings but 62814 is intended for the standard bore (nominally 1.75"), 82813 is for a +0.020 bore and 82812 for a +0.030 bore. The rings are 0.048" (1.219 mm) thick and 0.068/0.069" (1.75 mm) wide.

Marvin - if you could please post a link or directions to the catalogue you mention, I am interested in putting several sets of 55123 or equivalent rings in my inventory.

Mark
 
Thanks @PogoInTheWoods, I'm going to check him out.

Mark, I found the catalogue here: https://www.meteorpiston.com/it/downloads.
It's the third one down the list, "Catalogo Gardening Forestry 2020", the rings section start on page 93/199, with dimensions/materials guide on page 95. I haven't checked it in detail and don't understand the materials codes, I think there's more info on the first pages of the document. I downloaded the pdf, will try to attach it here.
 

Attachments

  • MetorPistonGardeningForestry2020.pdf
    6.9 MB
Scanned the catalogue some more now, and saw towards the bigger end there's also "Homelite 1050" listed, only model listed for that size (o.d. = 55.56 mm, h = 1.588 mm & r = 2.2 mm).
I find it strange that there's nothing listed for any 10-series, can't imagine that the big Homelite model was more common?
 
Thanks Marvin (Leon), I will try contacting Dave Smith (Definitive Dave) and see about ordering some of the McCulloch 250 type rings.

It looks like the Husqvarna 346 rings are close to the 62814 McCulloch rings but a bit thicker, the Stihl 261/271 rings might be close enough to work with a little filing of the end gap.

Mark
 
Wow,this sticky is all but dead.
I need some help with my SP125.I put the U-nut on the recoiol that was missing & trierd to start the saw.I don't know what happened,but when it did start it wouldn't throttle up at all.I started pulling the carb & saw there were NO needles in the carb,it has a Tilly HS124A.I know this carb has a fixed hi jet,but I'd at least expect to see a needle for the lo.After getting the carb off almost entirely,I found a small screw towards the back of the saw diagonally inserted into the carb on the bottom.I figured this must be the lo because there was an idle adjustment screw at the top.I pulled the covers off the carb & found the diaphragms to be a bit stiff,so I proceded with a rebuild.I couldn't get the carb to hold pressure unless I put both pump diaphragms in.I put the carb back on the saw & all I get is a pop with choke on,push choke off & another pop & then nothing.I'd like to get rid of the fixed jet carb if I can as I consider them to be garbage.
 
Wow,this sticky is all but dead.
I need some help with my SP125.I put the U-nut on the recoiol that was missing & trierd to start the saw.I don't know what happened,but when it did start it wouldn't throttle up at all.I started pulling the carb & saw there were NO needles in the carb,it has a Tilly HS124A.I know this carb has a fixed hi jet,but I'd at least expect to see a needle for the lo.After getting the carb off almost entirely,I found a small screw towards the back of the saw diagonally inserted into the carb on the bottom.I figured this must be the lo because there was an idle adjustment screw at the top.I pulled the covers off the carb & found the diaphragms to be a bit stiff,so I proceded with a rebuild.I couldn't get the carb to hold pressure unless I put both pump diaphragms in.I put the carb back on the saw & all I get is a pop with choke on,push choke off & another pop & then nothing.I'd like to get rid of the fixed jet carb if I can as I consider them to be garbage.
I just ran into this with my 394xp carburetor Ed, the dual diaphragm situation didn't work, same symptoms.
I removed the snake skin (tan) one and it ran great.
 

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