McCulloch Chain Saws

[Yokosukadweller]

I just received a small pressure testing set. That's because my SP/CP 70 idles all over the place and there must be a leak somewhere. I'm really hoping it may just be a carb gasket or impulse line, and not a PTO or flywheel side gasket. We will see - next weekend I am planning to make some blind rubber gaskets for carb and muffler and begin to try to find the leak.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

Had my new 550 running well for about 5 mins and it subsequently developed a leak. One of the screws holding the reed valve in place is leaking past the thread to the area under the carb. Still started easily, but would slowly slowly run leaner and leaner. Hopefully it is the only leak.

 

[Marvin Booysen]

A Mac pack arrived in the post today ... all the way from Dike, Iowa!



Lots of parts for my PM850: AV mouts, air filter, muffler spark arrester & reed parts, intake boot; a flywheel chip guard for my PM700 frankensaw... and a 3D printed handle insert and 3 Mac silhouettes

Thanks Mark, now I can get this beastie sorted!



The handle insert is going on my newly acquired Mac 5-10, which I got running over the weekend (more later).
The saw came with, I guess, the original gummy rubber handle insert. While nice to touch, it's kind of sagged down/pulled back, I suppose there's a reason why Mac switched to hard plastic handle inserts for the 10 series.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hey guys good to see everyone is well.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I just received a small pressure testing set. That's because my SP/CP 70 idles all over the place and there must be a leak somewhere. I'm really hoping it may just be a carb gasket or impulse line, and not a PTO or flywheel side gasket. We will see - next weekend I am planning to make some blind rubber gaskets for carb and muffler and begin to try to find the leak.

An unfortunate turn of events, but a perfect example of why I always harp on doing a vac/pressure test on a case or short block before any additional assembly. You can then at least usually eliminate the case and seals as leak sources when encountering such post-assembly performance problems.

Good luck with your detective work.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Likewise back at ya, Jethro. Spring is just around the corner, eh?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Likewise back at ya, Jethro. Spring is just around the corner, eh?

Certainly is back on the saw in the near future

 

[vinnywv]

Hey guys good to see everyone is well.

Hi jethro! Long time since we heard from ya. Hows dirtbikin going?

 

[Howsitgoineh]

Hello Mac fans - quick Bar question!

I have this 24" bar on my PM 610 - running 58ga 3/8 pitch.
The bar tip has split - where can I find a replacement tip for this bar? Does not have to be OEM. Thank you!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Hello Mac fans - quick Bar question!

I have this 24" bar on my PM 610 - running 58ga 3/8 pitch.
The bar tip has split - where can I find a replacement tip for this bar? Does not have to be OEM. Thank you!

They can be replaced with the 3 rivet Windsor tip I believe.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

They can be replaced with the 3 rivet Windsor tip I believe.

Thank you I'll look into that. I believe the Mac bars were rebranded Windsor bars back in the day.

 

[Syncop8r]

Hello Mac fans

Haha I love your username - I can hear Tinman saying it.

 

[Yokosukadweller]

An unfortunate turn of events, but a perfect example of why I always harp on doing a vac/pressure test on a case or short block before any additional assembly. You can then at least usually eliminate the case and seals as leak sources when encountering such post-assembly performance problems.

Good luck with your detective work.

Thanks, yes you are right. That was my mistake to assume a saw in this condition should not be checked for air leaks while the case and engine block was out. If nothing else I will get good at taking the 10series saws apart.

 

[vinnywv]

Hello Mac fans - quick Bar question!

I have this 24" bar on my PM 610 - running 58ga 3/8 pitch.
The bar tip has split - where can I find a replacement tip for this bar? Does not have to be OEM. Thank you!

I just got one off ebay. Its oregon but for the windsor. $15.00 us. Do a search for "oregon 31540". Should pop right up

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks, yes you are right. That was my mistake to assume a saw in this condition should not be checked for air leaks while the case and engine block was out. If nothing else I will get good at taking the 10series saws apart.

I wouldn't go so far as to say not testing is a mistake..., particularly if the means to do so aren't conveniently available. You work with what you have in those circumstances and hope for the best.

If you neglect doing a leak test while having the means to do one simply because you installed new components and assume everything will be fine, well..., that's a mistake IMHO. Most folks only make it once after they need to tear a saw back down to find a slightly cocked seal (or any number of things) that can be easily overlooked until the saw won't run right..., after everything else is checked and diagnosed before finally arriving at compromised crankcase integrity being the likely source of the problem. A leak check only takes a few minutes and a MityVac typically pays for itself one way or another with the first leak it finds.

 

[edju1958]

I got the Super 44A today,it's gonna need a lot of cleaning! I pulled the flywheel cover off to see if my D44 cover would fit.It would fit,but the extra tall nut on the flywheel prevents it from fitting.I'd like to stay original anyway.It fires on a prime,but won't stay running.I wasn't aware that this saw has the wicking filter in it,so it may take a day or so for the wick to get saturated through.Any advice on cleaning the wick? I was thinking of putting straight gas in the tank with some Seafoam & let it set for a couple days,then drain it out.I forgot to mention that the wire from the coil to the on/off switch is broken,but hard to discern what's what with the build up of old oil & dirt.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thanks, yes you are right. That was my mistake to assume a saw in this condition should not be checked for air leaks while the case and engine block was out. If nothing else I will get good at taking the 10series saws apart.

I think I've had my SP81 apart 3 times. As I have other saws to use it's not a terrible situation.
A leak test or smoke test isn't a bad idea when chasing problems.
I often use non- chlorinated brake cleaner to spray the areas of concern first though , if the saw is running and sucking air it'll pull the brake cleaner in through the leak, and the saw will shut down immediately.

 

[heimannm]

Every now and then I have such confidence in my skills that I skip the pressure/vacuum testing....and sometimes it works out O.K. I have all of the kit readily available in my workbench so there is no excuse to not test one other than impatience and more and more I am trying to be better disciplined just for the peace of mind.

I have a growing collection of "solid gaskets" cut from inner tubes or nitrile gasket material so most of the time I don't even need to make a new one, just find one that fits.

Mark

 

[matt_lamb_160]

On the topic of sealing, getting gaskets locally is impossible and I got sick of hand cutting them so I bought a Cricut Maker. Works pretty good up to 1.5 mm (photo 2). I 're-engineered' some of the gaskets while I was at it.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hi jethro! Long time since we heard from ya. Hows dirtbikin going?

Yeah has been a fair old while. Yeah dirt biking has been great until 3 weeks ago when I broke a couple ribs lol whoopsy