McCulloch Chain Saws

[Eccentric]

Nice "stealth gear drives" Cliff! Those are sought after saws now.

I'd wager that Randy is riding the CDF Wayback machine right now!!!

 

[dieselsmoke]

SP-Series

View attachment 157288Here's my collection of super pro saws, some are new to me, some are well, in the family for some time.:greenchainsaw:

 

[D.A.]

I've been a long time fan of Macs, but from go-carts and aviation. If I remember correctly, everyone wanted a Mac 101 engine for their go-cart and several gyrocopters have been powered by the drone engine. I haven't had any Mac chainsaws until recently. I know have a Mac 47 but I'd like to ask you wiser guys about the little Mini Macs. I bought two at a garage sale two weekends ago. I messed around with both of them this weekend. They'll both run for an instant with a squirt of prime in the carb. The nicest one of them leaks fuel out as fast as you can pour it in. I pulled it apart and I see where the fuel tank engages the round rubber seal at the carb. I think thats where its leaking but I can't figure out why. Its not just a little leak, it pours out. Advice?

 

[tmessenger]

Pick up a couple of old mac parts saws, I'm not a mac guy so don't have a clue as to which models these are and can't find any tags, any ideas ?

Thanks Tim

 

[heimannm]

The one with the black top is a 795 or 797, you can tell by the compression release (that extra black button at the right rear of the air box).

The other one looks to be a 1-70 Series saw of some description, 1-71 or later since the points are behind the flywheel rather than at the front of the air box.

If you look at the bottom of the saw you will find some numbers stamped in the crank case. With the cyinder pointing towards you, the model # will be on the left and the serial number on the right.

Actually the 797/797 probably just has a model number in code but if you post the numbers some one here will know.

I think from the looks of those the best thing you can do it put them in a good home for old abused McCullochs, PM me for the address...

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

Beatcha to it my friend.

The one with the black top is a 795 or 797, you can tell by the compression release (that extra black button at the right rear of the air box).

The other one looks to me a 1-70 Series saw of some description, 1-71 or later since the points are behind the flywheel rather than at rhe front of the air box.

If you look at the bottom of the saw you will find some numbers stamped in the crank case. With the cyinder pointing towards you, the model # will be on the left and the serial number on the right.

Actually the 795/797 probably just has a model number in code but if you post the numbers some one here will know.

I think from the looks of those the best thing you can do it put them in a good home for old abused McCullochs, PM me for the address...

Mark

I sent him a PM already, both with much of the same info you just posted.........plus the solicitation for the carcass', parts, and bars! Now you do have the slight advantage of residing in the same state as him....

 

[tmessenger]

The black top saw is 63629 0300 and the other saw is G on one side of the case then in two small stamped boxes on the other side is 192 and something 2 maybe 02 but the stamp is not clear so that's all I can tell. The bar is a 24" hard nose and looks to be in good condition. (see photo).

 

[heimannm]

63629 is a 795, 103 cc or 6.3 In³.

Could that other stamp be 1-72?

Mark

 

[tmessenger]

63629 is a 795, 103 cc or 6.3 In³.

Could that other stamp be 1-72?

Mark

Ahh I was looking in the wrong place found the real numbers under some crud, see photo.

 

[heimannm]

1-71 it is then. I have one that set on the damp gravel too long, bottom has a good bit of corrosion but it does start and run. I never put the tach on it but it sounds like it's over 10,000 RPM. Based on the 640 (11,400 RPM no load) it wouldn't surprise me if the 1-71 won't crank up a few R's as well.

By the way, all the oily crud on the bottom is a good thing, protect the magnesium from corrosion.

Mark

 

[Walt41]

Got this 895 a week or so ago from a fellow member.
Thanks Walt.
I gave it a carb rebuild, Cleaned and gapped the points.
Gave the saw a good cleaning. Found these nice H&S
big dogs, Has a nice Mac hardnose bar with 9/16 chain.
She's a bit grabby in the cut because the rakers have
been cut lower than they need be.

Lee



Glad to see that saw in a proper home, it was here only a short time and scared all my other saws!

 

[cpr]

If y'all are looking for a 1-70 and 1-72 parts saws or a running D-44, check the trading post, I know a guy lokking to lose some!

 

[54stude]

So what is this saw?
The numbers on the bottom are 58551a and 940.

I think it might be a 790 with a replacement block, maybe from a 795? Or is it possible that a "2 man" 940 block is in it?

It starts on a prime of mix in the carb, and sounds pretty good until it runs out of fuel. Yellow fever here I come!

 

[leeha]

So what is this saw?
The numbers on the bottom are 58551a and 940.

I think it might be a 790 with a replacement block, maybe from a 795? Or is it possible that a "2 man" 940 block is in it?

It starts on a prime of mix in the carb, and sounds pretty good until it runs out of fuel. Yellow fever here I come!

I think what you have is a 790.
The block appears to have bean replace
with the absence of paint. Yes a 940
block will go in to the best of my knowledge.


Lee

 

[cpr]

Take off the muffler, stick a popsicle stick in and gently roll the piston on it to make a mark and measure the bore, the find tdc, put it through the spark plug hole, mark with a knife, lower the piston to bdc and mark with a knife then measure.

Quick and dirty CC.

I wish there was a listing of block casting numbers like some people have out there for the pistons and cranks. I found a list for the kart blocks, but nothing for the saw blocks.

BTW, I don't see a decomp lever, so that pretty much rules out the 795 and 797.

 

[Brian13]

Just doing some pre-research. Has any body ever made a thinner head gasket i.e. soda can, for any of the removable head blocks to boost compression? I know with newer saws setting the squish height to about .020" is popular, and I have heard of people with dirt bikes using thinner head gaskets. Any body ever try it on these Macs with a removable head?

 

[cpr]

Do some digging on kart sites. I can't remember where I saw them, but there are different thickness gaskets available. I have considered doing the same. You could also investigate "decking" the block like a car engine, same as milling the base on a modern saw cyl.

 

[willysmn]

Mac cylinder heads

Just doing some pre-research. Has any body ever made a thinner head gasket i.e. soda can, for any of the removable head blocks to boost compression? I know with newer saws setting the squish height to about .020" is popular, and I have heard of people with dirt bikes using thinner head gaskets. Any body ever try it on these Macs with a removable head?

I used to do this on Kart engines in the 60s. There were also heads with smaller combustion chambers too. There were also strokers that NEEDED the real thick head gasket to keep the piston from hitting the head. The top ring stayed in the cylinder, but the piston top was above the top of the cylinder.

 

[67L36Driver]

610(ish) weight.

What would a 610 (or thereabouts) weigh Ready To Run?


Not that I really need anything that big. Yeah,........................right.

 

[Eccentric]

A big thanks too LeeHa for sending me that Mac 700-series parts care package. It arrived this afternoon before work. They're just what Randy and I needed for our saws. His bottom bracket was badly broken in a few spots, and the one Lee sent is in fine shape. Those grills, screws, the fan cover, and the handlebar/bracket assembly will all go to good use. Thanks again Lee! You most certainly DO NOT "suck"...