Looks to be missing a screw that attaches the recoil cover to the ignition coil underneath?
I'm gonna start asking you to do my online purchases! They're a great saw to use.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I'm gonna start asking you to do my online purchases! They're a great saw to use.
the seller said a relative who does some small engine work looked it over and told them it may be a bad coil. that may be where the missing screw went. he also put a brand-new spark plug in it so that's good. thinking about putting the 28" bar on the SP70 and moving the new 20" bar and chain from that to this new saw. also, the handle on this saw is in really nice condition. haven't checked to see if it will interchange with the SP70 yet. the one on the SP70 is a mess. I think tomorrow I will clean this thing up and see if anything else is missing. I do know that the air filter has no flocking left on it.
No dice on the handle sorry to say
funny thing alot of the 10-10Ses seem to have a bum coil and mine was too. Yup 20 Inch be premo as on the S. The seat of the pants feel is the S is right there with the 70cc saws in speed until the wood gets bigger than 20 or very hard.If ya just lift a little and let the 57cc stay in the sweet spot they go really well. If dogged in and really making it work down low the 70cc will shine but in saying that the S will embarrass most modern saws of similar cc in low end poke it's just the Mac 70s are very very good and also embarrass most modern 70s in low end too. Up high where it should live generally the 57s vs 70 is sod all in speed. Probably just file up the chain to suit.
High rpm a modern saw will definitely cut faster but they fall on there face faster and let's say you hit a bit of dirt at the half tank mark the S or the SP70 will be able to carry on with a dog in and a few pumps on the manual oiler. The modern saw guy will be rolling a dart filling up fueling up and listening to the Mac eat.
Was it worth the two rounds more he cut???
I dunno there's not much in it and the Mac's feel bloody nice to cut with.
I cut most weekends for a few hours on a log pile. I use a selection of Mac's. My 57 needs a carb a few 70s my sp81 and.... don't hurt me a Poulan 4000 and a couple huskies. Old huskies in fact the very huskies that sealed Mac's fate. A 162se and a 268xp.
I like the older saws even if there not yellow
The 162se vs the 57cc Mac hmmmm..
The 162 rips pretty good it's pretty light "compared to its 1976 friends"
It's more of a high RPM beast and sort scary in a questionable cut.
The 57 will cut slower if needed in that questionable cut and the bar tip is very accurate. Yes it shakes more but yes it has more mid range balls. I miss those balls. I love the 2 series huskies they are a heck of a saw and if ya read up are a very important saw for every manufacturer until now but dang a Mac just brings a big grin. Gave my mate a run on the 7-10 and that was him he run the tank out
Grab the 81 and we'll that's it for the day. 81 all day.
I'd like to say if your limbing up a tree a 57 or 70 mac is amazing. Doesn't need big rpm the tip is very accurate the no chain brake is a non issue and the no anti vibe doesn't let a huge kick back happen. You don't need lots of RPM to cut just brrr brrr through stuff. I'll say it again kick back just doesn't have the same energy with no AV saws. It really doesn't. In slow motion I'm convinced you'd see it. The tooth on the dodgy top corner bites and stops the AV starts soaking it up until whamo. The no AV saw which can also cut at a appropriate RPM just instantly sends that kick feedback out and ya go aww whoops. Haha knew it do that. A safe controlled manner.
The 81 (never ran a sp70) will kick much harder. It certainly does but atleast it can also off idle cut stuff when needed. I really miss that when cutting with a modern saw. Below ideal rpm they just stall over n over again. And won't cut then do all of a sudden and then the AV makes the tip go where it wasn't actually asked too.
That's it I'm getting my 57 going.
The 81 (never ran a sp70) will kick much harder. It certainly does but atleast it can also off idle cut stuff when needed. I really miss that when cutting with a modern saw. Below ideal rpm they just stall over n over again. And won't cut then do all of a sudden and then the AV makes the tip go where it wasn't actually asked too.
That's it I'm getting my 57 going.
Nope, that ones electronic all the way. They are good saws.the last one (SP70) was 40.00. this one was 50.00. you'll be getting a shopping list
View attachment 1022682
After inspection and still no fire after the standard stuff of cleaning the flywheel coil re-gapping etc. Remove the coil wire from the coil clean the wire seat in the coil carefully and reseat and seal the plug wire into the coil. They screw in and out usually easy. I have seen them corrode in the seat, get loose etc and cause issues.
good advice. is high temp silicone good for sealing the wire at the coil?
Yes that will work fine. OEM stated red rtv I believe. Mark am I correct?
so def no spark. checked with the spark plug out and grounded and with a spark tester. the coil to flywheel gap was within tolerance. I cleaned and lightly sanded the flywheel magnets and removed the coil and cleaned and lightly sanded the coil contacts. removed the coil wire. the inside of the coil wire hole and screw were in good shape. trimmed about 3/16 off the coil wire for a fresh contact. tested the coil wire for continuity. re-installed the coil with a .012" air gap. still no spark. tested with the kill switch wire connected and also with it disconnected.
anyone know what the drill is to test this coil? the 10-10 workshop manual I have for my SP70 does not cover these electronic ignition coils.
anyone know what the drill is to test this coil? the 10-10 workshop manual I have for my SP70 does not cover these electronic ignition coils.
I recently acquired a 10-10a with no spark. Turns out plug cap was making poor contact with plug. I stuck needlenose in there and just squished it a bit. Perfect spark now and saw runs fantastic. Sometimes it's the dumbest little things.
thinkin this coil is bad.
what I'm thinkin is good is the top end on this saw. piston and rings look great thru the ports. the cylinder walls look new. I don't think I've ever seen this much cross hatching on a cylinder this old. that opinion only includes the 5 saws I've done but a whole lot of vintage 2 stroke dirt bikes.
strangely, this MAC has no ID plate. why would that be?
I've broken a tank/handle before. It could be a replacement?
didn't think of that. if it was me, I would have removed the old plate and installed it on the new part. most people would have had a shop do an install that involved. I would think a shop would transfer the plate.
everything nice and clean.
Unfortunately I don't think every shop took that level of care. I've had a few 10 series saws with no indication they ever had a tag installed.
I'd say it is the exceptional shop that would bother to transfer the tag, most wouldn't even notice it was there.
The grey coils (and later, smaller white ones) were not as dependable as the older tan colored ones. Good news is there are many coils out there, many donor saws available, and the coils from the 600 Series will work if you cut down the high tension lead (spark plug wire).
Mark
The grey coils (and later, smaller white ones) were not as dependable as the older tan colored ones. Good news is there are many coils out there, many donor saws available, and the coils from the 600 Series will work if you cut down the high tension lead (spark plug wire).
Mark
isn't there something about baking coils that can bring them back to functioning?
The blue Prestolite coils, but don't know about others.
