McCulloch Chain Saws

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I use an anvil and a hammer and a bit of steel. Tap tap tap along the bar. Might not be ideal but works if your a tight ass like me once done grab a square and a bright light and run the square along and check the rail hight. Use a cut off wheel on a 5 inch grinder and sneak it along the rails as needed. Can also drop the groove deeper if the drivers are snagging the bottom with said cut off wheel.

Another thing those oregon bars are nice but they do like to bend the nose around a bit so carefully check it's alignment with a keen eyeometer

 

[vizette]

I got one similar to that on ebay a couple years back from seller 360-safety-and-equipment for a little over $30, looks like they still have a couple. Works reasonably well, as Mark said lots of fiddling, checking, adjusting. Take your time, run it back and forth a few times, tighten, back and forth... rinse and repeat. Definitely have to put some muscle behind it though.

It's nothing fancy, a couple bearings bolted to some plate, but for the price totally worth it vs spending a day making it. I don't think I could buy the parts for that price.

 

[Woodslasher]

Yes, but I also like to put a rail squeezer on them worn bars also , you're likely not to be able to get it back to 050 but definitely . 058 . Ive done it before with a couple of vintage bars with very good results.

Or, not ideal but you could toss an 0.063 chain on it and see how it runs. I have an old, very worn Oregon 24" bar that I think was 0.050, I ran a 0.063 chain on it for a long time before I realized it may be wrong. Currently I have no idea what gauge I'm running on it. Again, not ideal but I got the bar (and chains) for free, so worst case it becomes full-time 0.063 or I pinch the rails tighter.

 

[bob kern]

If it helps the searching, I have heard them called " pinch rollers"
I have just simply used my big vise to close up raile on stump bars but I would NOT do that to an otherwise good bar.

 

[flatsfisher]

I use an anvil and a hammer and a bit of steel. Tap tap tap along the bar. Might not be ideal but works if your a tight ass like me once done grab a square and a bright light and run the square along and check the rail hight. Use a cut off wheel on a 5 inch grinder and sneak it along the rails as needed. Can also drop the groove deeper if the drivers are snagging the bottom with said cut off wheel.

Another thing those oregon bars are nice but they do like to bend the nose around a bit so carefully check it's alignment with a keen eyeometer

I do have a little 220 lb anvil I found and cleaned up a few years ago.

 

[flatsfisher]

I got one similar to that on ebay a couple years back from seller 360-safety-and-equipment for a little over $30, looks like they still have a couple. Works reasonably well, as Mark said lots of fiddling, checking, adjusting. Take your time, run it back and forth a few times, tighten, back and forth... rinse and repeat. Definitely have to put some muscle behind it though.

It's nothing fancy, a couple bearings bolted to some plate, but for the price totally worth it vs spending a day making it. I don't think I could buy the parts for that price.

I have bearings and steel and time

 

[flatsfisher]

Or, not ideal but you could toss an 0.063 chain on it and see how it runs. I have an old, very worn Oregon 24" bar that I think was 0.050, I ran a 0.063 chain on it for a long time before I realized it may be wrong. Currently I have no idea what gauge I'm running on it. Again, not ideal but I got the bar (and chains) for free, so worst case it becomes full-time 0.063 or I pinch the rails tighter.

not too sure about an 063 chain in an 060 groove though.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The anvil method has been used throughout the years, many people suggest getting a strip of metal just smaller than your desired guage and placing it in the rail ( old band saw blade) . Then adjust with at least a 2lb sledge.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A strip of plastic instead of metal may allow a little more "give" in the anvil/hammer "adjustment" method. It's a lot easier to spread the rails back out than to close them up.

Or just replace the bar.

 

[heimannm]

Some of the old Bar Shop machines included a trip hammer that was used for closing the rails.



Mark

 

[Poodle_Bruce]

Howdy folks,

I picked up a McCulloch Pro 10-10 Automatic on the cheap, and I have been using it to help my buddy clean up his property. This old saw still gets work done! I did some very basic maintenance when I saw how available parts are: New air filter, fuel line, spark plug, cheapo 20" bar and chain, & chain guides. I used to help cut firewood and have worked landscaping where I ran a variety of saws. This is the first chainsaw I have owned, and I do not have any experience with older saws.

I had a few questions:

- Advice on adjusting the oiler? I am going through 2 or 3 oil fills per gas tank.
- Any recommendations on chain tension? I have been struggling to find where this saw is happy. (Problem is probably my cheapo bar)
- This saw is still running on points and condenser. It starts pretty good, but should I throw a chip in there?
- I have not opened the carb, but I think it might be due for some new internals. Right now it cuts best in the middle of the power range. Is that typical? Should I expect more chain speed? I am having a hard time adjusting the carb to a happy cutting speed.
- Any tricks for making the handle wider? Cheap bar wrap? Maybe like a 1" heater hose? My hand cramps, but I usually need a break by then anyway.

I know this is not going to be as "user friendly" as my buddy's new Stihl, but I certainly can't hear him when it's running. I would love to hear your 10-10 stories.

Thanks for the help!

 

[bob kern]

Howdy folks,

I picked up a McCulloch Pro 10-10 Automatic on the cheap, and I have been using it to help my buddy clean up his property. This old saw still gets work done! I did some very basic maintenance when I saw how available parts are: New air filter, fuel line, spark plug, cheapo 20" bar and chain, & chain guides. I used to help cut firewood and have worked landscaping where I ran a variety of saws. This is the first chainsaw I have owned, and I do not have any experience with older saws.

I had a few questions:

- Advice on adjusting the oiler? I am going through 2 or 3 oil fills per gas tank.
- Any recommendations on chain tension? I have been struggling to find where this saw is happy. (Problem is probably my cheapo bar)
- This saw is still running on points and condenser. It starts pretty good, but should I throw a chip in there?
- I have not opened the carb, but I think it might be due for some new internals. Right now it cuts best in the middle of the power range. Is that typical? Should I expect more chain speed? I am having a hard time adjusting the carb to a happy cutting speed.
- Any tricks for making the handle wider? Cheap bar wrap? Maybe like a 1" heater hose? My hand cramps, but I usually need a break by then anyway.

I know this is not going to be as "user friendly" as my buddy's new Stihl, but I certainly can't hear him when it's running. I would love to hear your 10-10 stories.

Thanks for the help!

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Welcome aboard!!
Will add more later when I'm free but yes the oiler is adjustable from inside the tank. There are some extremely knowledgeable men on here that have addressed that with good pics if I remember correctly. I would do some searching.
On chain speed, they are slower but complete torque monsters. Stab the spikes in, apply a little pressure til it settles in to a sweet spot and let it eat.

 

[Poodle_Bruce]

Thanks for the help!

There are some extremely knowledgeable men on here that have addressed that with good pics if I remember correctly. I would do some searching.

I am completely overwhelmed by the amount of awesome information on this forum. I will do some searching for sure.

On chain speed, they are slower but complete torque monsters.

It does feel different from other saws that I have used.

 

[rwoods]

I was pretty stoked to get the 28" bar and chain with my new to me 10-10S. as I mentioned earlier, I installed them on my SP70.

something isn't right. the chain is sloppy in the groove and doesn't ride right on the nose sprocket. on the nose the chain rides up higher on the top and rides over to one side more than the other. when I got these, I cleaned out the groove and cleaned the nose sprocket and greased the nose sprocket. the nose sprocket is tight with no play and rotates smoothly. the markings on the bar tell me it is 3/8 pitch, but I don't know how to tell what the gauge of the bar is. there is an FQ marking on the bar, but I have googled that and the other number and get nothing. maybe too old for Oregon to list.

the number 72 on the drive link of the Oregon chain tells me it is 3/8 pitch/.050 gauge.

I checked the drive link thickness on the chain with a micrometer and got .507 in. I checked the width of the bar groove with feeler gauges and got .060.

so, either the groove in the bar is worn out or the PO was running a .050 gauge chain in a .058 gauge bar.

can anyone translate the bar markings to determine gauge?

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I understand that some folks would just work up the scale of chains as the bar wears. As an .050 bar wears you move to .058 chain then to .063 then scrap it.

You have wear and likely a pinch as MS stated.

Ron

 

[flatsfisher]

took the bar off the SP70 this am to look it over again and decide what to do with it. while removing it, I got distracted by the ugly front handle on that saw. it has a lot of wear and one end has started crumbling off. so decided I would try to make it better. can't be much worse.

 

[flatsfisher]

rebuilt the corner with 3M electrical tape covered with 1" heat shrink.

 

[flatsfisher]

filled all the gaps and holes with shoe goo so they wouldn't print through the heat shrink as much..

 

[flatsfisher]

used thick commercial grade marine heat shrink with the glue layer inside. not perfect but much better.

 

[flatsfisher]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

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