Way better than I could do!hell no. if I had a cnc mill it might be interesting but it's all manual and I'm a slow as hell beginner. I am getting faster though and making fewer mistakes with each project.
Way better than I could do!hell no. if I had a cnc mill it might be interesting but it's all manual and I'm a slow as hell beginner. I am getting faster though and making fewer mistakes with each project.
today I finally received the last item I need to put the 10-10S back together. the carb was so dirty I decided to remove the 2 welch plugs to clean out those passages and when I did, I realized the little check valve disc was completely missing. had to order the Walbro check valve kit last minute. I suspect it was eaten alive over time by ethanol used by the PO. I don't run ethanol in anything but my truck. anyway, my question tonight. the service manual calls for putting a fuel resistant sealant on the carb gaskets and spacer. I looked at the TDS for Permatex Motoseal1 and it says it is resistant to gasoline. I happen to have a tube of that. nuff said or is that going to cause a problem?
btw, for reference, the reason this carb was so dirty is that it was run by the PO with no airbox seals, no rubber seal around the high and low speed carb adjusting screws and a rotted-out rubber seal around the throttle rod that connects to the trigger. this lets a lot of sawdust and potentially dirt in under the air filter. I know most of you guys on this forum know this but maybe it will help a newb like me when they find this thread.
Thanks Vinny. Great explanation. It is much messier when you don't think to drain the oil out of the saw! I got there eventually after spilling bar oil all over myself.Its messy and a bit of effort but once its right you wont have to mess with it ever again.
Ordered, and hopefully in the post box soon.Find the carb make and get a kit. Walbro sdc carbs use a walbro k-10 kit.
I usually don't either and didn't on the SP70. I was going thru the manual this pm and that's what it said. think I will just leave them dry.I put no sealant on any of the carburetor Gaskets, nor do I use it on the welch plugs as I set them down hard enough to deform them.
Depends how much. A little I kinda live with but a ever bigger puddle is not good. Infact I had 1 set on fire. I tell ya water doesn't help much with fire lol. It could be the line leaking or the tank seal or bothShould I expect that a 10-10 airbox be dry? It should probably not have a layer of gas surrounding the carb?
Leaky tank seal?
That sounds exciting! How did that end up?Infact I had 1 set on fire.
I played a bit with my new bar rail tightener thingy this afternoon. didn't want to go too far until I get the new chain but with some fiddling and a few pulls it did tighten up some per my feeler gauges.
speaking of the new chain. the old chain that came with this 28" bar is 3/8, .050 with 88 drive links. googling around last night and this morning, I could not find a 3/8, .058, 88 drive link chain except for a Raisman brand (chinese?) and an Archer (also chinese)? is an 88 link, 3/8, .058 chain an oddball?
Burnt hairs dirty undies. Got it out and saved it no damage but man what a thrill lol.That sounds exciting! How did that end up?
These old saws are pretty addictive to fix up. I think I am understanding why a feller might collect a few.
Uh oh.... I think you CAD and yellow fever!!!That sounds exciting! How did that end up?
These old saws are pretty addictive to fix up. I think I am understanding why a feller might collect a few.
A friend of mine had a bar rebuilding business, and I benefited from him having a bar re-sizer (hammer) and the proper grinding wheels for the different gauges. After he quit the business, I knew enough about sizing my own bars, that I just use a hammer, with the bar lying on a piece of I beam. I have a couple of thin cutoff wheels to dress out areas on the bars that end up a little tight. With patience, that does not happen very often.Some of the old Bar Shop machines included a trip hammer that was used for closing the rails.
View attachment 1025794
Mark
I plead the fifth.Uh oh.... I think you CAD and yellow fever!!!
Sorry there is no cure. You can only find temporary relief with another saw now and again.
Yes it should be dry. either your Tank seal, or fuel line is leaking where it comes through tank. Honestly I would put a new tank seal and fuel line both in it and use seal all to seal it up on reassembly. Easy fix.Should I expect that a 10-10 airbox be dry? It should probably not have a layer of gas surrounding the carb?
Leaky tank seal?