McCulloch Chain Saws

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I'm looking for a little help. I have been using my pro mac 850 over the past few weeks as my main firewood saw but I am having a problem with it over-oiling the bar. It will run through a tank of oil at a ratio of 2:1 vs fuel. I've already tried adjusting the auto oiler that is in the oil tank but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated!
On Page 90 of the attached 10 series manual you'll find a good review of the system and what adjustments mean, and best service practices for the oiler on the 850 you have.

McCulloch - Shop Manual 10 Series 63084 (1).pdf
 
It takes more that a partial turn of the adjusting screw to make any noticeable difference in the oiler output. Turn the screw CCW at least 4 turns and see if that helps.

Mark
Well I may have found the problem. I have been turning it CL. Ill adjust CCW and see if it makes any difference.
 
On Page 90 of the attached 10 series manual you'll find a good review of the system and what adjustments mean, and best service practices for the oiler on the 850 you have.

McCulloch - Shop Manual 10 Series 63084 (1).pdf
Appreciate the schematic! It looks like I might be missing some parts. I recall mine did not have the lock not on the adjustment screw. . . Its making me think that I might be missing the spring and check valve altogether! Ill dig into it later today to confirm.
 
Tinkered a bit more..topped off the tank (still with the MM oil in it) with fresh mix to see if we had any leaks. Fuel cap appears to be leaking, no immediate evidence around the tank sides or bulkhead around the fuel line, but I'll check again after it sits a while. Figured the ratio ought to have enough fuel to see if it would stay running if the carb was metering. Took a few primes/stalls, and playing with the choke until it warmed up enough, but now it is holding idle and will rev! Tested the manual oiler a few pushes and slung a line (and a puddle) on the floor and mat. IMG_7366.jpeg

Discovered the air filter is shot, so looks like I'll be ordering one of those too along with a carb kit, fuel line, and gaskets for fuel/oil tanks.IMG_7363.jpeg

Found "SDC 44A" on the carb body, and also a "B1" towards the bottom - maybe a date code as mentioned earlier?
IMG_7361.jpeg
 
the chain plate that came with the PM1000 did not have an outlet for the bar oil to come thru, so I ground the slot in a Stihl 044 chain plate to match the oil outlet hole. I think the only reason it's working though, is because the chain is a little long and the bar is so far forward that the slope at the rear of the bar is below the oil outlet. if I have to shorten the chain when it stretches and pull the bar back much, the bar is so wide that the top groove will be way above the oil outlet hole. the chain is covered with oil though when running for now. both auto and manual oilers are working.

oil outlet hole
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original bar plate
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Stihl bar plate
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bar in rearward position with oil outlet hole behind it marked with red dot
PXL_20241206_182154460.MP.jpg


12-8-24.jpg
 
Is it the old metal Mark? If yes it definitely will be lighter for sure. Quite a difference from a 7-10 to a 700 even with a brake on the 7-10
100% yes on the weight difference. Love the PM 55, 60, and 7-10 for power to weight. The Boxier later clutch covers and brakes added some heft. Would be an interesting comparison. Fully dressed model weights depending on what they were wearing.
 
100% yes on the weight difference. Love the PM 55, 60, and 7-10 for power to weight. The Boxier later clutch covers and brakes added some heft. Would be an interesting comparison. Fully dressed model weights depending on what they were wearing.
Not sure if the 55 was sold in my region but the PM 570 was probably the most popular of the 57cc saws. I have one and it's certainly nice but I can agree with bulky and a bit heavy. Lots of PM 10-10 saws laying around though. Almost can't find anything else mac some days
 
I actually chucked all the bits on scales and even the older starter caps are lighter from different material. Not sure about the engines themselves but all the rest is definitely a different brew.

My 10-10S is underneath a right hand pull 10-10. It's pretty light really.

Got the S engine by accident. A guy sent it to me as a 700 block. I said I'll keep that too. Could build an actual 10-10S with PM stuff but ahh why the lighter chassis is better
 
Thanks Bob.

Colton T - I did not mean to mislead you...turning the screw clockwise will reduce the stoke of the pump and thus reduce the flow. Not all of the automatic oiler had the lock nut on te adjuster screw. Since it is threaded into the plastic body of the pump you can make the hole a bit undersized it grips the screw quite securely.

Mark
 

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