McCulloch Chain Saws

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For ring end gap I have gone by the formula of .004 per 1" of piston dia. I got that out of a 2cycle mechanic book my dad gave me. Has worked good so far.
 
For ring end gap I have gone by the formula of .004 per 1" of piston dia. I got that out of a 2cycle mechanic book my dad gave me. Has worked good so far.

Will use that formula. :cheers: I think that is the "generic rule of thumb" that we were given in auto engine repair too. :thinking:
 
Next up, the original Mini Mac 6, world lightest chain saw. This one came with a case and three spare 1/4" pitch chains, albeit somewhat worn chains.

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Mark

The Eager Beaver's Grandpa! Seems to me if a guy built some sort of fixture to firmly hold the engine you could run and tune the engine all outside the case all you would need is a fuel line from a seperate tank and drill or something to start it. I am 99% positive this must be how they did it in the factory or they would have the highest worker suicide rate of anywhere :hmm3grin2orange:
 
The Eager Beaver's Grandpa! Seems to me if a guy built some sort of fixture to firmly hold the engine you could run and tune the engine all outside the case all you would need is a fuel line from a seperate tank and drill or something to start it. I am 99% positive this must be how they did it in the factory or they would have the highest worker suicide rate of anywhere :hmm3grin2orange:

You're probably right...
 
The Mini Mac series will test one's patience...

Ron/Igpoe/etc. - I have two SP125's, both with the fixed jet carburetors and they will just peak up over 10,000 in the shop (bar and chain only, not in the cut). While I've thought about a fully adjustable carburetor, there are several different options out there, I can't believe it could make my saws run better than they do now. In addition to GTG's I use mine as needed when I get into that rare situation calling for a long bar and a saw that is fairly handy to maneuver.

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I am not suggesting that you won't see improvements with the adjustable H jetted carburetor, I am simply pointing out that mine seem to be pretty sound with the original equipment. These saws were not built to turn a lot of RPM, they were intended to pull a long bar and keep on pulling...

Mark
 
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The Mini Mac series will test one's patience...

Ron/Igpoe/etc. - I have two SP125's, both with the fixed jet carburetors and they will just peak up over 10,000 in the shop (bar and chain only, not in the cut). While I've thought about a fully adjustable carburetor, there are several different options out there, I can't believe it could make my saws run better than they do now. In addition to GTG's I use mine as needed when I get into that rare situation calling for a long bar and a saw that is fairly handy to maneuver.

170340d1296422207-smeins12-jpg


170339d1296422203-dscn1231-jpg


I am not suggesting that you won't see improvements with the adjustable H jetted carburetor, I am simply pointing out that mine seem to be pretty sound with the original equipment. These saws were not built to turn a lot of RPM, they were intended to pull a long bar and keep on pulling...

Mark

I agree with you on everything you wrote. My SP125 didn't "need" an adjustable carb. It ran strong before on the fixed-jet carb. GTGs' and festivals are about the only times I cut wood anymore. If I had to depend on the big Mac in the forest as a logger or any type of regular use, I wouldn't consider an alteration from factory. I just wanted the extra zip the SDC would provide.
Igpoe:cheers:
 
Kill switch shorts to ground (engine chassis) wire from coil to switch and on to chassis somewhere
watch out for switches with built in ground connection (no extra wire needed) but fittings must all be there and tight. and your better off getting the correct gasket as bits of silicon will end up back in the engine, and you don't want that
Thanks, Rustynutz.I'll see if I can come up with a gasket.Do you know a source that might be able to help me out?
 
Dan, you will need to determine which one you need, should be readily available from Bob Johnson, Sherwood at Discount Marine or Bill at Fayettville Equipment if you can't find one locally. The 10 Series saws were pretty common and lots of places still have parts on hand.

The one with two holes in it is 68149, the little rectangular one with no holes is 84007.

Mark
 
Dan, you will need to determine which one you need, should be readily available from Bob Johnson, Sherwood at Discount Marine or Bill at Fayettville Equipment if you can't find one locally. The 10 Series saws were pretty common and lots of places still have parts on hand.

The one with two holes in it is 68149, the little rectangular one with no holes is 84007.

Mark
If you have access to the right punches you could use gasket material from an auto parts store near you and make your own gasket. It's not very big so a single small sheet of gasket material is all you need.
 
I have an interresting question for us McCulloch lovers... Do you think your McCulloch(s) can cut a Stihl clean in half?


I think mine would... :D
 
The Mini Mac series will test one's patience...

Ron/Igpoe/etc. - I have two SP125's, both with the fixed jet carburetors and they will just peak up over 10,000 in the shop (bar and chain only, not in the cut). While I've thought about a fully adjustable carburetor, there are several different options out there, I can't believe it could make my saws run better than they do now. In addition to GTG's I use mine as needed when I get into that rare situation calling for a long bar and a saw that is fairly handy to maneuver.

170340d1296422207-smeins12-jpg


170339d1296422203-dscn1231-jpg


I am not suggesting that you won't see improvements with the adjustable H jetted carburetor, I am simply pointing out that mine seem to be pretty sound with the original equipment. These saws were not built to turn a lot of RPM, they were intended to pull a long bar and keep on pulling...

Mark

Mark, in addition to sharing the MAC experience one of the reasons I took the 125 to the GTG was to get the response of others to whether or not it was running good since I have don't have any thing to compare it with other than my recollection of the sound of my father's MAC. This saw seems to have plenty of the torque but doesn't seem to churn out as high of in the wood speed as I recall hearing in my youth. I don't know what MAC my father used but it was a gear drive (probably a 640). I haven't used my grandfather's 1-60 in almost 30 years but I want to think it also has a higher in the wood rev sound. All three of these MACs have/had the same round directional muffler. Maybe the 80cc rev faster or the gear drive allowed it to maintain a higher speed or maybe my recollection is bad but it just seems like it should rev a little higher in the wood than it does. I tried to listen closely as several folks ran it yesterday in 2 foot hardwood while it was wearing a 36" sprocket nose bar and a NOS .404 McCulloch chain with less than 4 good cuts in oak - not much of a workout for a 125 in my opinion.

I would rather not tinker with a carb and have no bias against a fixed jet but I note that McCulloch offered 6 jets. I don't know what size is in it. Due to my lack of experience I really wouldn't know whether to jet up or down. My guess would be a smaller jet. I guess I could check this out and try to find jets on both sides of the existing jet and see what runs the best. Ordinarily I try to slighly richen the mix after I find the fastest spot with a saw in the wood. I assume I can do the same with a fixed jet by trying a progression of jets (assuming I can find the jets). Thanks for your kind advice as I need all I can get. It would be very sad if I burned this saw up with my Tom foolery. Ron
 
Rons 125 was no slouch. Just seemed like it could have benefited from a few more R's. I know Stinkbaits is no slouch either with the adjustable carb, and it is close to if not faster than my 3120.

But Ron, I would cry if it got burnt up too! That saw was a beaut too.


BTW Stinky, is your 125 running chipper or chiesel?
 
Rons 125 was no slouch. Just seemed like it could have benefited from a few more R's. I know Stinkbaits is no slouch either with the adjustable carb, and it is close to if not faster than my 3120.

But Ron, I would cry if it got burnt up too! That saw was a beaut too.


BTW Stinky, is your 125 running chipper or chiesel?

Thanks for the feedback. Do you think it is too rich or too lean? I'm a turn the screw in or out unti it sounds right kind of guy and I don't have a clue until I start twisting. Thanks. I enjoyed meeting you and the others. Ron
 
I know this is a MAC thread but we all like old saws. It felt good watching Possum fillet that large knobby oak section we brought yesterday with a Homelite 1050. I don't think any of those modified moderns could have done it any faster nor any more gracefully. Ron
 
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If you have access to the right punches you could use gasket material from an auto parts store near you and make your own gasket. It's not very big so a single small sheet of gasket material is all you need.

Shop at a hobby or craft store for a leather punch. You want one with the wheel of multiple sizes. Just made some gaskets for a Poulan oiler and a Mac carb adaptor.

Muffler gasket? Very, very seldom have I found a gasket between the muffler and the exhaust port. Not saying one shouldn't be there but in the real world they are rare.
 
Moving over to Rim sprocket on most of my work saws now, and noticed the different arraignments on offer 7T 8T 9T and wondered by moving up to say 9T .325 from 7T 3/8" you will get a faster chain fpm speed without having to rev the guts out of your old saw's???

Hey Mark nice to see the old Mc's doing some real work!
 
Shop at a hobby or craft store for a leather punch. You want one with the wheel of multiple sizes. Just made some gaskets for a Poulan oiler and a Mac carb adaptor.

Muffler gasket? Very, very seldom have I found a gasket between the muffler and the exhaust port. Not saying one shouldn't be there but in the real world they are rare.

There is a recessed area on the cylinder at the exhaust port on the Mac 10-10 that needs to be filled with a gasket to make a tight seal with the muffler which bolts across the recess area. I know the area is on the PM 55, PM 10-10, Super 10-10 and I can only assume that it is on the other models in this series.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Do you think it is too rich or too lean? I'm a turn the screw in or out unti it sounds right kind of guy and I don't have a clue until I start twisting. Thanks. I enjoyed meeting you and the others. Ron
Sounded right to me, But I only have limited experience with those saws.

I meant to say semi chisel or full... :)
 

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