McCulloch Chain Saws

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I thought the MM6 would just be an afternoon project, turned in to just a little bit more.

I don't think I have to travel next week so I should have a few evenings to get out into the shop, get this one done, and move on to the 77.

Mark

Just giving you a bit of flak. You've squared away a BP-1 during the the timeframe that I've used to rebuild a couple saw carbs. No time to work on saws anymore. I'm anxious to see that 77 get the "Heimannm touch".

As for your "afternoon project"..................that sounds to me like anything having to do with working on an MM in my experience.:D
 
Havnt got my mystery saw yet, but after studying the pictures further I believe I can see a decomp valve. It looks to like it could be a 7-10. I would be very pleased if that was the case. Getting excited now! Kind of like Christmas LOL.

I got mine 10-10 yesterday and determined that is was a super 10-10a, but it is really in tough shape. I'll need quite a few parts to make it respectable again. I'm trying to buy another pro Mac 10-10 from a AS member that has no compression and maybe between the two I can make one good one. You just never know what shape they're going to be in when you get them. Good luck with yours.
 
I got mine 10-10 yesterday and determined that is was a super 10-10a, but it is really in tough shape. I'll need quite a few parts to make it respectable again. I'm trying to buy another pro Mac 10-10 from a AS member that has no compression and maybe between the two I can make one good one. You just never know what shape they're going to be in when you get them. Good luck with yours.

Is that member selling on the classifieds? He's a nice guy, hope everything works out so you can bring another vintage McCulloch back to life. :cheers:
 
Fixed jet SP125C

Several guys ran my SP125C today at the TN GTG. It didn't seem to be reving as fast as I thought it should. I believe this was also noticed by some more experienced than me but who were too polite to just come out and say it. I was asked about whether it had a fixed jet. Not having tinkered with the carb I didn't know so we checked and it is a fixed jet. I was told that this was a manufacturer's safety device to prevent tinkers like me from burning up saws. Long intro to my question. What else, if anything, could be holding this Mac back? Is a fully adjustable carb worth the expense and trouble? This is the quickest starting MAC I have ever owned. So I don't want to mess with a good thing just to get a little more speed but like most I want all the speed I can get. Ron
 
Is that member selling on the classifieds? He's a nice guy, hope everything works out so you can bring another vintage McCulloch back to life. :cheers:

Yes, it was on the classifieds and I just got done PMing him about it. I'll do what I can, winter isn't over with just yet.

View attachment 170241

my last fixer upper
 
Yes, it was on the classifieds and I just got done PMing him about it. I'll do what I can, winter isn't over with just yet.

View attachment 170241

my last fixer upper

Nice saw! :cheers: A very kind member on here shipped me a Pro Mac 850 project, and I hardly can wait til Monday. :blob2: Needs to be put together, and some new seals/gaskets, a carb kit, and a couple of other small things will probably be needed. I will have a thread for it, loaded with pics. :)

That's one of the reasons I passed on that 10-10 you will likely get from that guy. Something useful, for someone else to use. :cheers: Money is fairly tight with me too, so I have to make sure I have enough to buy the parts that I need for the 850.

College and wealth don't mix. Unless you're one of those lucky people with filthy rich parents who give you a Mercedes Benz for graduating high school, lol. Seen a few kids like that driving around on campus. :rolleyes: and here I am, driving a car from 1984... :D


Just realize I kind of bragged... I apologise for doing so. Haven't been so excited for something in a while. :)
 
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I got mine 10-10 yesterday and determined that is was a super 10-10a, but it is really in tough shape. I'll need quite a few parts to make it respectable again. I'm trying to buy another pro Mac 10-10 from a AS member that has no compression and maybe between the two I can make one good one. You just never know what shape they're going to be in when you get them. Good luck with yours.

I expect to see it probably Monday or Tuesday. I am a long ways from Michigan. According to the listing this one is supposed to run, if so it will be the first saw I have bought that runs LOL. But it said it only had 110 psi for compression, hoping my gauge gives a better reading. Good luck with you 10-10, they are pretty simple to take apart and put back together. And parts seem to be readily available on ebay for the most part.
 
Several guys ran my SP125C today at the TN GTG. It didn't seem to be reving as fast as I thought it should. I believe this was also noticed by some more experienced than me but who were too polite to just come out and say it. I was asked about whether it had a fixed jet. Not having tinkered with the carb I didn't know so we checked and it is a fixed jet. I was told that this was a manufacturer's safety device to prevent tinkers like me from burning up saws. Long intro to my question. What else, if anything, could be holding this Mac back? Is a fully adjustable carb worth the expense and trouble? This is the quickest starting MAC I have ever owned. So I don't want to mess with a good thing just to get a little more speed but like most I want all the speed I can get. Ron

My SP125 had the fixed jet, but I put an adjustable carb off of a CP125 on it. It made a noticable difference in power. For one thing, if you campare the fixed jet tillotson to the adjustable walbro, you can see that the walbro has a noticeably bigger venturi. I have my SP125 tuned to 10,500, and it four-strokes a plenty.
 
hey 610, that 850 project saw is quite a nice gift from Ron. Man, I hope you take your time and put it together right. Remember, sometimes its the journey not just the destination. IMO that series of Macs are the best. I bit more weight than a 10-10 but as much power as a 044 stihl. Awsome.
 
hey 610, that 850 project saw is quite a nice gift from Ron. Man, I hope you take your time and put it together right. Remember, sometimes its the journey not just the destination. IMO that series of Macs are the best. I bit more weight than a 10-10 but as much power as a 044 stihl. Awsome.

:agree2:
 
adjustable carb

Several guys ran my SP125C today at the TN GTG. It didn't seem to be reving as fast as I thought it should. I believe this was also noticed by some more experienced than me but who were too polite to just come out and say it. I was asked about whether it had a fixed jet. Not having tinkered with the carb I didn't know so we checked and it is a fixed jet. I was told that this was a manufacturer's safety device to prevent tinkers like me from burning up saws. Long intro to my question. What else, if anything, could be holding this Mac back? Is a fully adjustable carb worth the expense and trouble? This is the quickest starting MAC I have ever owned. So I don't want to mess with a good thing just to get a little more speed but like most I want all the speed I can get. Ron

Ron,
I've gotta agree with Stinkbait on the adjustable carb. He and I ran ours and each others to try and determine which was stronger which taught us nothing until we put the tach on his while in the cut. He's still turning 7300 with his 36" 404 full-skip buried in 30" oak!. When he first replaced his fixed-jet carb I ran his and told him the difference in my mind was about 20%. Then,when I bought my saw with the HS carb,I wasted no time paying a whopping $60 for my SDC. Big price for that carb, but worth it
Igpoe:cheers:
 
View attachment 170224View attachment 170225View attachment 170226View attachment 170227Picked up this 10-10s today for $40. I pulled the muffler and checked the P&C,they looked good. Put some mix in it and it fired right up,now I need to find the chain brake parts. The bar it came with was junk but it had a nearly new full chisel chain on it. :D

Good score. The PM 10-10S is the best at 57cc even if they are rather overweight. I found mine at a small engine shop w/new 16" B&C for 40 USD. Took three days to clean it up.
 
My SP125 had the fixed jet, but I put an adjustable carb off of a CP125 on it. It made a noticable difference in power. For one thing, if you campare the fixed jet tillotson to the adjustable walbro, you can see that the walbro has a noticeably bigger venturi. I have my SP125 tuned to 10,500, and it four-strokes a plenty.

Ron,
I've gotta agree with Stinkbait on the adjustable carb. He and I ran ours and each others to try and determine which was stronger which taught us nothing until we put the tach on his while in the cut. He's still turning 7300 with his 36" 404 full-skip buried in 30" oak!. When he first replaced his fixed-jet carb I ran his and told him the difference in my mind was about 20%. Then,when I bought my saw with the HS carb,I wasted no time paying a whopping $60 for my SDC. Big price for that carb, but worth it
Igpoe:cheers:

Thanks guys. I'll see if I can find a part # then go to work looking for it. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice as this saw is truly easy to start and I don't want to lean it out by tinkering too much with it. Ron
 
1.25

Ron, When you get yours, you will need to set it richer than normal.
Without having the port in the side of the airbox it is very difficult to adjust the L and H screws. Before installing my carb, Stinkbait advised me to put both screws at 1.25 turns from bottom. He was on the money as they only needed the most minor of tweaks after that. Stinky, what's the number on the carb? He's reading this at some point today.
Igpoe:cheers:
 
hey 610, that 850 project saw is quite a nice gift from Ron. Man, I hope you take your time and put it together right. Remember, sometimes its the journey not just the destination. IMO that series of Macs are the best. I bit more weight than a 10-10 but as much power as a 044 stihl. Awsome.

I'll be sure to put together right, and probably will ask some questions for the McCulloch experts to answer so I can assemble it properly. I'm loving the idea of felling trees with it. :) It'll be done right for sure. Planning on new crank bearings, seals and all related gaskets and fuel lines to ensure near perfection. :cheers: Can't let a good old saw be assembled improperly. It's a sin. :)
 
Ron, When you get yours, you will need to set it richer than normal.
Without having the port in the side of the airbox it is very difficult to adjust the L and H screws. Before installing my carb, Stinkbait advised me to put both screws at 1.25 turns from bottom. He was on the money as they only needed the most minor of tweaks after that. Stinky, what's the number on the carb? He's reading this at some point today.
Igpoe:cheers:

SDC 20 (Walbro)
 
610, 850 project

Hi again, Since you're going all the way to a bare block, I'd pay careful attention to ring end gap. I've read too many posts bout low comp. engines, only to find out massive end gap on the piston rings.
You need to Grind carefully the ends of the ring befor installation to achieve the magic number of clearence. Ask around, cause I know there is a formula based on bore diameter. Have fun on this one.
 
10-10s questions

Good morning guys,I've got a couple of questions 'bout the 10-10s.First,when I pulled the muffler off there was no gasket,is there supposed to be? If so, can high temp RTV silicon be used? Secondly,the kill switch doesn't work.I have no idea how it's supposed to work. can someone take the time to explain it.There is one wire attached to the switch and it looks like maybe there should be two. :dont-know:
 
Kill switch shorts to ground (engine chassis) wire from coil to switch and on to chassis somewhere
watch out for switches with built in ground connection (no extra wire needed) but fittings must all be there and tight. and your better off getting the correct gasket as bits of silicon will end up back in the engine, and you don't want that
 
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Hi again, Since you're going all the way to a bare block, I'd pay careful attention to ring end gap. I've read too many posts bout low comp. engines, only to find out massive end gap on the piston rings.
You need to Grind carefully the ends of the ring befor installation to achieve the magic number of clearence. Ask around, cause I know there is a formula based on bore diameter. Have fun on this one.

Ring end gap... definitely one of the most overlooked aspects of engine rebuilding. Thanks for the advice! :cheers: I will have fun, and I hope you will have fun reading my thread on building it... and lots of pics will be present too! :cheers:
 

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