McCulloch Chain Saws

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I will update on whether the line I bought is a well made repro or whatever. The guy I bought it from is lees24... he's got all kind of ribbons and badges from ebay, so I figure his products must be good... but I may be wrong, as the seller Dennis used obviously sold him an inferior product. Kinda like chasing your own tail trying to find a good product sometimes.
 
I know a source for the reproductions, and they will stand behind the quality of them. As far as how long they last, that has more to do with what you put in, or leave in the tank.

Well, what are ya waiting for? I'm sure we'd like to know where to get the next fuel line we need. :)
 
That might work. However, you would want to make sure you use a paint/clearcoat that can go through a process like this... also, I don't think going over ~100 degrees would be a good idea, as it may be possible to ignite the fumes or maybe burn the paint. I would do more research on it, if you haven't already.

At this point that is what I am wondering, how the clear coat would react to hot metal. I would assume it would just dry faster, but I dont know. And if I was only going to heat it up to 100* might as well just leave it outside lol. I was thinking 250*.
 
I know a source for the reproductions, and they will stand behind the quality of them. As far as how long they last, that has more to do with what you put in, or leave in the tank.

That's a relief. Glad to hear there are quality reproductions of these and other saw fuel system 'wear items' being made.

Well, what are ya waiting for? I'm sure we'd like to know where to get the next fuel line we need. :)

Probably an information request that'd be better made 'in private'....:cheers:
 
Gentlemen and Aaron.
'bout to head to the shop to get a pic or two of the PM800.

Have commenced on Beam and PBR, so if you don't see a post in the next 30 minutes, I have passed out. I am very tired.
 
As far as fuel line is concerned, why don't any of us use small diameter copper tubing, or some other type of fabrication, in the tank, thru the wall?

It doesn't degrade and could be soldered into place, then just use a short run of standard size fuel line to the carb.


Call me stupid, if there is some reason we don't do this.



Chris
 
Gentlemen and Aaron.
'bout to head to the shop to get a pic or two of the PM800.

Have commenced on Beam and PBR, so if you don't see a post in the next 30 minutes, I have passed out. I am very tired.

I'll toast to that...out of whiskey though....for now
 
Ok here is what I have been thinking. I like the look of the polished metal, but the instant oxidation bothers me. The only thing I can think that would cause it is moisture being trapped under the clear coat. So here is the solution I came up with. I want to take the flywheel cover from the S44a polish it, and then take it clean it real well, put it in the oven for a bit to heat it up, and then paint it while its still hot, and then maybe put it back in the oven. Not sure if it will do anything but create more work, but in my mind it sounds like it should work. Any input?

hi temp eng clearcoat. should hold up.
 
At this point that is what I am wondering, how the clear coat would react to hot metal. I would assume it would just dry faster, but I dont know. And if I was only going to heat it up to 100* might as well just leave it outside lol. I was thinking 250*.
You could be right, but remember that 100F in an oven is dry dry dry. depending on where you live, outside isn't approaching 0% humidity. i would go as high as 125F without getting too worried, but not much more. but i'm paranoid.

Not a bad plan to cook the juice out of it, though.
 
You could be right, but remember that 100F in an oven is dry dry dry. depending on where you live, outside isn't approaching 0% humidity. i would go as high as 125F without getting too worried, but not much more. but i'm paranoid.

Not a bad plan to cook the juice out of it, though.

You have a point, it gets in the mid 90s easy here, but there is usually very high humidity with it.
 
Here is the little thing.

002-1.jpg
 
As far as fuel line is concerned, why don't any of us use small diameter copper tubing, or some other type of fabrication, in the tank, thru the wall?

It doesn't degrade and could be soldered into place, then just use a short run of standard size fuel line to the carb.


Call me stupid, if there is some reason we don't do this.

Chris

Hmmm... never thought of that. If we just put a little piece of copper pipe inthe bulkhead with a tight fitting fuel-resistant/proof rubber grommet, and have a little piece in the tank for the filter to attach to, and a little piece for the carb line... damn, we could make a business out of retrofit kits for saws like the 10 series with that stupid hole.
 
As far as fuel line is concerned, why don't any of us use small diameter copper tubing, or some other type of fabrication, in the tank, thru the wall?

It doesn't degrade and could be soldered into place, then just use a short run of standard size fuel line to the carb.

Call me stupid, if there is some reason we don't do this.

Chris

Vibration, copper work hardens, get brittle and cracks. Copper fuel line is a no-no on most any I.C. engine because a fuel line break can cause fire.

Carl.
 
As far as fuel line is concerned, why don't any of us use small diameter copper tubing, or some other type of fabrication, in the tank, thru the wall?

It doesn't degrade and could be soldered into place, then just use a short run of standard size fuel line to the carb.


Call me stupid, if there is some reason we don't do this.



Chris

On Homelites and McCullochs I usually make my own fuel line, they're not hard to fit up. Little different with a Stihl..with Stihl I usually buy their fuel line.
 
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