McCulloch Chain Saws

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LOL!

That sissy valve is for the starter, not your sissy arms. Sissy.

Being a manly specimen show off means you get to fix the starter. Been there, done that. Shouldn't take bridge cable to start that saw, any saw shop, small engine shop should have some braided nylon starter cord. Use the decomp. The saw isn't as young as you, and won't heal with rest either.

Hmm... funny. Thought Mr. RandyMac said the sissy valve was unneccessary. :msp_unsure: Well, I should have enough to do it all over again... as it broke right at the knot in the pulley both times. So it'll be about an inch and a half shorter now, lol. :)

Goes to show I still ain't stupid enough. :jester:
 
Busted ropes are part of life. Wait 'til she snaps at ya. It'll feel like your whole hand fell off.

BTW, make sure you can feel compression in the starter and keep it taught before you yank. Easier on the rope, the dogs, and you.
 
Busted ropes are part of life. Wait 'til she snaps at ya. It'll feel like your whole hand fell off.

BTW, make sure you can feel compression in the starter and keep it taught before you yank. Easier on the rope, the dogs, and you.

That's the weird part, I did pull slowly until I felt compression, and then yanked it like I was trying to pull a bear's tooth out. Why is the recoil rope breaking? :D
 
Whoa, not that far out! :msp_scared: What I meant was I pull it until I feel compression, and return the handle to as close to rest as possible, take up the slack against the compression, and then pull. This is how I start any engine with a recoil starting mechanism.

(wait, am I confusing myself?)

Read that over again, and I think you are saying that pull, but not all the way to a dead stop... Hmm... guess I better put a longer rope in there, as the one that is on there now is too short to really ensure some room to allow for the flywheel dogs to release. Is that what we're talking about? Geez, I really need to eat supper. BRB
 
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You should stop pulling when there's at least half a wrap of rope on the recoil.

Yanking right to the end of the rope is hard on the rope and the recoil mechanism.
 
Too lazy to figure this myself, taking the Series 6 Exam wrecked me...

Anyone know a DL count for an Oregon 30" roller nose bar (35"OAL) in .404/.063?

Numbers are 11468 and 3063-A520.

I know the 3063 means 30" .063 and A520 is the mount pattern. What's the 11468?
 
Bridge cable
LMAO!!

I have some Macs with cable pull starts

Seems to have been common on a lot of the earlier recoil-start engines. My guess is that's because good strong flexible nylon starter coard wasn't around then. They had what...............hemp and cotton rope to work with? That's not up to the task methinks.

Too lazy to figure this myself, taking the Series 6 Exam wrecked me...

Anyone know a DL count for an Oregon 30" roller nose bar (35"OAL) in .404/.063?

Numbers are 11468 and 3063-A520.

I know the 3063 means 30" .063 and A520 is the mount pattern. What's the 11468?

My guess (here I go again) is that "11468" is just the manufacturer's part number for that bar. Since it has the "3063" coding on it, I'm also guessing you have a Cannon RN bar. My 31" Mac mount Cannon RN has "3163" and my Homelite mount 30" Cannon RN has "3063" on it.

If nobody answers your DL count question by tomorrow afternoon, I'll dig out the XP1020 and count the drivers on that 3063 bar. Should be the same for your Mac bar, as large frame Homelite and McCulloch bars usualy used the same DL counts. Too late for me to do it tonight. Man day shift stinks. I'm taking a couple of hours off in the afternoon to try and beat the traffic home. Should give me some time to count drivers for my friend Charles...:D
 
My guess (here I go again) is that "11468" is just the manufacturer's part number for that bar. Since it has the "3063" coding on it, I'm also guessing you have a Cannon RN bar. My 31" Mac mount Cannon RN has "3163" and my Homelite mount 30" Cannon RN has "3063" on it.

If nobody answers your DL count question by tomorrow afternoon, I'll dig out the XP1020 and count the drivers on that 3063 bar. Should be the same for your Mac bar, as large frame Homelite and McCulloch bars usualy used the same DL counts. Too late for me to do it tonight. Man day shift stinks. I'm taking a couple of hours off in the afternoon to try and beat the traffic home. Should give me some time to count drivers for my friend Charles...:D

Oregon bar. I was being too lazy to drag out bigger loop and start counting it off...
 
PM610, decomps save on starter wear, only in recent times are decomps intended for wieners.
Replace the cord, use the decomp, don't get too wild on yanking the handle, a smooth pull through will do. Pull the cord out a bit when you shut down. Do not store saw bar up, fuel will fill the cylinder.
 
PM610, decomps save on starter wear, only in recent times are decomps intended for wieners.
Replace the cord, use the decomp, don't get too wild on yanking the handle, a smooth pull through will do. Pull the cord out a bit when you shut down. Do not store saw bar up, fuel will fill the cylinder.

I got her all put back together and started her up. All of you were right... I was getting a little too aggressive with the pull and sheared the rope off at the pulley.

Well, the saw runs, but now I think I have an air leak. :angry: I started her up and had to retune the low speed a little, and then made a cut and set the saw down. At that point, I turned and grabbed a piece of firewood, when I looked back at the saw, the chain was spinning... it wasn't when I just set it down. I retuned and adjusted the idle screw and low speed... then made another cut and held the saw. I see the chain spinning again. Retuned again, and same thing. I revved it up and did not see as much smoke as I should be seeing, because the high speed is still set a bit rich. That brings me to the conclusion that the saw has an air leak. :bang:
 
pull the Sp plug, should be chocolate brown, or maybe a touch lighter. When you say the chain is spinning, like just barely moving, or like the the thing is at 1/4 throttle?
 
pull the Sp plug, should be chocolate brown, or maybe a touch lighter. When you say the chain is spinning, like just barely moving, or like the the thing is at 1/4 throttle?

It's like it was at 1/4 throttle. Not twitching like it should be.

I will check the plug. After I eat lunch though. I'll brb, got to put my pizza in the oven.
 
610, you can go with E-Lasto-Start if you don't like bloody knuckles!!

Speaking of, I am chewing the heck out of the back of my hand every time I pull on my PM700.

I'm not even sure where I'm catching on the saw that's taking chunks of meat off at the base of my middle finger.

What am *I* doing wrong?

NOTE: I'm not breaking the recoil rope :)
 
Speaking of, I am chewing the heck out of the back of my hand every time I pull on my PM700.

I'm not even sure where I'm catching on the saw that's taking chunks of meat off at the base of my middle finger.

What am *I* doing wrong?

NOTE: I'm not breaking the recoil rope :)

:) The cord is probably too short. Also, pulling too far. :D You ain't breaking the rope, so that's okay. :laugh: hehe...

BTW, I haven't gotten bloody knuckles from the recoil yet. :)
 
Hehe, I fully expected (and probably deserved) that :)

It's funny because I don't even know it's happened until I look down at my hand and it's dripping blood.

Thought it was a fluke, until it happened a second time. Then I started wearing a glove. With the glove on I can feel the back of my hand banging the side of the saw somewhere.

I suppose I could ditch the glove, pull it a few times, and observe where the puddle of blood ends up...
 

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