McCulloch Chain Saws

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Speaking of, I am chewing the heck out of the back of my hand every time I pull on my PM700.

I'm not even sure where I'm catching on the saw that's taking chunks of meat off at the base of my middle finger.

What am *I* doing wrong?

NOTE: I'm not breaking the recoil rope :)

Give us a brief description of how you start your saw.
 
Okay, I grip the front handle near the middle with my left hand so the saw is hanging level.
Set the choke, set the throttle, hit the kill switch.
Grip the rope handle with right hand, slowly pull until it's up against compression.
Retract rope, pull slightly again until starter dogs engage.
Quick flick of the right arm, with a slight involuntary push down from the left arm.
 
Okay, I grip the front handle near the middle with my left hand so the saw is hanging level.
Set the choke, set the throttle, hit the kill switch.
Grip the rope handle with right hand, slowly pull until it's up against compression.
Retract rope, pull slightly again until starter dogs engage.
Quick flick of the right arm, with a slight involuntary push down from the left arm.

Recoil cord is likely similar to mine... too short ot drop start. That's what I was doing yesterday... drop starting. Broke the cord twice.

When I started the 850 today, I had it set on the ground, with my right foot on the bottom plate, and my left hand in the middle of the front handle, and activated the sissy valve, placed my left foot lightly on top of the recoil cover, and ripped a short quick pull. Worked, no snap back like what caused me to break the recoil cord yesterday.
 
610, pull that spark plug and post a pic. That saw should settle down to a nice idle once its warmed up. Sounds like it's got compression, breaking pull ropes and all.
 
Here are a few pics... I noticed the plug is more of a dark gray/black, not really a brown color... so it's too rich, right?

176489d1300476999-spark-plug-2-jpg


176488d1300476998-spark-plug-3-jpg


176487d1300476997-spark-plug-1-jpg
 
Black is OK, looks good for a "break-in" tank of fuel, chocolate brown is what you strive for when she's good and broke in. On one of my SP's with anti-vibe I had to put a thin layer of sealer at the intake boot to saw head connection. I couldn't get the carby to tune right. Sealer fixed it.
 
Recoil cord is likely similar to mine... too short ot drop start. That's what I was doing yesterday... drop starting. Broke the cord twice.

My hand is banging on the saw at the BEGINNING of the pull, though... I'm not hitting the end of the rope like you were.

Good thing it starts easy, or I wouldn't have any meat left on my right hand... From a dry tank and carb it was running in 4 pulls last time. Betcha it would start in 1-2 right now.
 
My hand is banging on the saw at the BEGINNING of the pull, though... I'm not hitting the end of the rope like you were.

Good thing it starts easy, or I wouldn't have any meat left on my right hand... From a dry tank and carb it was running in 4 pulls last time. Betcha it would start in 1-2 right now.

Lol, I stand corrected. :)
 
Black is OK, looks good for a "break-in" tank of fuel, chocolate brown is what you strive for when she's good and broke in. On one of my SP's with anti-vibe I had to put a thin layer of sealer at the intake boot to saw head connection. I couldn't get the carby to tune right. Sealer fixed it.

You mean on the end that attaches to the cylinder flange or the end that bolts up to the bottom of the carb box/fuel tank? Or both?
 
By the way, what do you guys do for scabbards?

Somehow a section of old inner tube just wouldn't look right on this PM700. I'd like a nice yellow plastic scabbard to protect the chain when I'm not running it.
 
I went out and ran her again... and the saw dies if I turn it on either side, or bar down... what do I need to look for now?

I think the carb settings are good now, as there is a nice popping idle. growl growl pop growl pop growl growl pop pop growl, kinda like that... there also is fuel in the carb box, again... I think I need to put more teflon tape on the fuel line where it enters the carb box. I really wish there was something to cut around here other than wimpy little pieces of firewood... I really want to bury thie puny 20" bar in some poplar or something.
 
By the way, what do you guys do for scabbards?

Somehow a section of old inner tube just wouldn't look right on this PM700. I'd like a nice yellow plastic scabbard to protect the chain when I'm not running it.

Watch ebay for one or hunt Craigslist for a Mac saw and watch for a picture with one in it, then make an offer for the cover only, that's what I do for my bar covers that say Homelite and/or have Smokey Bear on them. Worked for 3 or 4 covers so far. I just hunt the model I need the cover for and watch for one in the picture. They normally don't care about selling the cover anyway. Got most of mine for under $10 + shipping!
 
Pnw pm55...

Hey Randy!

I remember you mentioning running 28" bars on 10-10 saws (such as the beasts your Bro used to build). Here's a guy with a PM55 wearing what he says is a 30" bar. I doubt it has the beans of an HR Special however...:D

Used Chainsaws
 
I was talking about the Cyl. flange, the lower one. I'm sure I put a light wipe of sealer at the boot top as well.
I read a good post on tuning, let your saw idle for a minute on the ground, flat. Then roll it onto its side. If it dies, its from gas pooling in the crankcase. To rich on the low needle. Lean it 1/8 of a turn adjust your idle setting and try again. You may have to live with a little chain creep at idle, given the age of the saw (clutch springs).
 
Okay, I grip the front handle near the middle with my left hand so the saw is hanging level.
Set the choke, set the throttle, hit the kill switch.
Grip the rope handle with right hand, slowly pull until it's up against compression.
Retract rope, pull slightly again until starter dogs engage.
Quick flick of the right arm, with a slight involuntary push down from the left arm.

I missed the part where you pushed in the DSP button. If you are not using it, then use it. Easier on the saw and easier on you. My PM700 is much more difficult to pull over than any of my 82cc saws. Part of this maybe due to a smaller diameter recoil rope and part is due to the exhaust port relief or Q port in the later model 82 cc saws. Ron
 
I was talking about the Cyl. flange, the lower one. I'm sure I put a light wipe of sealer at the boot top as well.
I read a good post on tuning, let your saw idle for a minute on the ground, flat. Then roll it onto its side. If it dies, its from gas pooling in the crankcase. To rich on the low needle. Lean it 1/8 of a turn adjust your idle setting and try again. You may have to live with a little chain creep at idle, given the age of the saw (clutch springs).

Ah, I see. That makes sense. Well, when I ran it a while ago, it did not seem to be 'running lean' as in the chain was turning, so I just need to retuen the low speed so it doesn't die when it's on its side.

I don't mind the chain creeping a little, but if it keeps betraying the proper adjustments and spinning as if it were at 1/4 throttle, I'll go in and put sealer around the intake boot ends.

Thanks for the help diesel! :cheers:
 
Too lazy to figure this myself, taking the Series 6 Exam wrecked me...

Anyone know a DL count for an Oregon 30" roller nose bar (35"OAL) in .404/.063?

Numbers are 11468 and 3063-A520.

I know the 3063 means 30" .063 and A520 is the mount pattern. What's the 11468?

I have 2 30" bars on my homies...1 roller and 1 sprocket. Both take 94DL of 404
 

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